2008 ROUSH Stage 3 Build...Take III

swflastang05

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Well that's good, hopefully it will clean up, but if not then you will at least have the choice to sleeve, or to go +.020 and new pistons.
 

AutoXRacer

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I took the motor apart today...

Took the oil pan off and the bottom of it looked super clean...nothing in it.

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Oil pickup is clean too.

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Do these valves look normal? What does the white mean?

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Number 7 exhaust port

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Check out cylinder #7

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You can actually feel the scratches or gouges...

Piston top feels rough!!

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Number 7 head chamber

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What do white exhaust valves mean?? Is that a LEAN mixture?

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Here are plugs 4-3-2-1

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Block and heads really to be taken to the machine shop tomorrow ASAP!!

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I have a bad feeling my engine builder is going to tell me we need to go 0.010 or more over. sigh Which means new cylinders. AAAHHH!!!
 

BeachMonkey100

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$100 per cylinder is cheap, I'm not saying it's not good work for that price, but don't be shocked if it's twice as much to sleeve it. Local shop that does the best machine work around charges $2000 for 8 sleeves.
 

AutoXRacer

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Wow... Thats a chunk of money... lol
Hmm, we'll see what Chuck says tomorrow.

I still need to figure out what I'm going to do about the blower.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Yeah definitely a pretty penny, but worth it if someone is willing to go that far into the block.

For sure, won't know until it's checked out.

Rebuild maybe?
 

429244

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White exhaust valves are generally not a problem. That is usually associated with fuel additives (either your additive or the fuel seller's additives). However, it is hard to tell from your pictures. Looking at all of the exhaust valves, if they are the same white color, you may want to try a colder plug or less timing (talk to your tuner- don't just guess). You also have a damaged plug which would indicate pre-ignition or a lean condition in that cylinder.
Best of luck on your rebuild.
 

swflastang05

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The #7 piston is super clean compared to the others, very unusual. I wonder if there was an issue with that injector after all? I'm far from any expert but the top of that piston still looks okay to reuse IMO, I've used worse in my fox body motors back in the day! The rest of the motor looks great, my pickup had a bunch of gunk in it when I took it apart, I must have got carried away with RTV / sealant, I used about 1/3 as much this time, lol. As long as that cylinder can be cleaned up you should be able to deck the heads, then new rings and a fresh set of bearings and reassemble. I have no idea what the white exhaust valves are from, did you ask Manuel yet?
 

stang67

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The rotor on the supercharger has a coating on them that is what you see coming off mine had the same issue at about 5k miles i sent the charger to Psesuperchargers and had them re coated
 

AutoXRacer

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The #7 piston is super clean compared to the others, very unusual. I wonder if there was an issue with that injector after all? I'm far from any expert but the top of that piston still looks okay to reuse IMO, I've used worse in my fox body motors back in the day! The rest of the motor looks great, my pickup had a bunch of gunk in it when I took it apart, I must have got carried away with RTV / sealant, I used about 1/3 as much this time, lol. As long as that cylinder can be cleaned up you should be able to deck the heads, then new rings and a fresh set of bearings and reassemble. I have no idea what the white exhaust valves are from, did you ask Manuel yet?

I drove the car home after the incident at the track. A two hour drive home with an injector dumping fuel into a cylinder with no spark plug. The cylinder got washed down.

At the time I didn't know what the problem was as the car drove normal at normal operating conditions. I screwed up the cylinder a lot more by driving it home. I am sure if I would have shut it down and replace the plug immediately, I would be OK. But the drive home is what killed the cylinder.
 

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I spoke with Stiegemeier this morning...Cody one of the techs stuck working on the 31st was very helpful. He said the damage is minor and just needs a rotor refinish and the blower case cleaned out. They would simply polish the rotors and re-coat them. He said easy peasy (sp?)

My plan before talking to Cody this morning was to buy a replacement rotor pack with casing...so basically the complete blower minus the nose drive or snout.
I would just unbolt mine and bolt it up to the new rotor pack and case.

The new rotor pack and case would be a VMP GenII!! Justin claims 40-60rwhp over the GenI (which is what I have; ported inlet with oversized elbow).
But talking to Cody, he said I should get the nose drive inspected. He said with the damage to the rotor pack, it is possible that the nose drive could have shifted or seen some unwanted load. He said he would hate for me to ruin a brand new expensive blower like the VMP GenII. Cody said that the GenII is a work of art...nothing can match the research and development VMP put into it. He said basically that GenII equates to a plus 3.0L blower.

So plans changed... I then though I might as well just ship my whole blower to Stiegemeier and have them do whats necessary. They said they would ship my blower back ready to simply bolt-on.

Then I started thinking...

Ship my blower to Stiegemeier, have them repair/re-finish my rotor pack, perform their Venom Cooler mod to the nose drive/snout (http://stiegemeier.com/services/venom-coolers/), and slap it all together into a VMP GenII casing!! Best of both worlds!! Air flow of the VMP GenII and the cooling of a liquid cooled blower.

Cody claimed their Venom Cooler decreases up to 100 degrees of heat out of the blower. Now, I am not sure the TVS makes that much heat as I have been able to set my hands on the case after 20mins of track time. Now, my old M90, hell no...you could fry an egg on that case.

So exciting things to come!!!

I'm also dumping the Super Cobra Jet mono-blade throttle body for the VMP 67mm twin blade. I have had issues with Lito (my tuner) trying to get the mono-blade to work smoothly on the street. He got it to work perfectly on the first iteration of the JDM motor, but with the new mods, heads, more aggressive cams, and deleted VCT system, its be a chore to get this throttle body to drive perfectly OEM.

Oh and talking about the porcelain, Cody definitely agrees thats what happened!! He says there is plenty of scavenging going on inside the intake manifold. He even added that he has seen a throttle body blade come apart, get blended through the rotors, and not touch the intercooler and end up lodged in the bypass. OMG!!

So he definitely agrees with the porcelain coming back up, going through the bypass, and getting recirculated into the rotors.




BTW, Happy New Years everyone!!!
 

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