2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[AutoXRacer]

5-6 psi of boost and 14.7?

:[

Yeah...

When you part throttle the car and try to maintain 5-6 PSI, your AFRs stay at 14.7 roughly...maybe can go down as low as 13.0-13.5.

Reason for this condition is to help seat the rings/walls. I have Total Seal AP Profile Steel rings and they need heat to help them seat. Thats where the 14.7 + low boost comes in. Its still safe, but adds just the right amount of heat.

You definitely don't want a enriched mixture while seating rings.

 

[eighty6gt]

more fuel = less lubrication = enhanced "seating!" This isn't true except in extreme, extreme cases, of course. I'm sure 11:1 isn't wetting the walls.

Rings are finished doing whatever they'll do by now I'm sure. Time to hit the dyno and give it hell!

 

[BeachMonkey100]

^^ +1.

Rings initially break in within the first/second heat cycle. if they don't even start to break in or become broken in by that time you have problems.

By the way it sounds from your experience this time you should be good to hit the dyno.

 

[swflastang05]

Yeah...

When you part throttle the car and try to maintain 5-6 PSI, your AFRs stay at 14.7 roughly...maybe can go down as low as 13.0-13.5.

Reason for this condition is to help seat the rings/walls. I have Total Seal AP Profile Steel rings and they need heat to help them seat. Thats where the 14.7 + low boost comes in. Its still safe, but adds just the right amount of heat.

You definitely don't want a enriched mixture while seating rings.

^^This! Steel rings are way different than moly when it comes to seating, they require several heat cycles under load, allowing to cool in between. If all goes well I'll be cranking my new steel rings tomorrow and doing the same exact thing!

 

[AutoXRacer]

I had to regap my plugs. I originally set them at 0.025" since that's what it was set at last time, prior to the tear down and they worked great.

Though, I did have an oil control issue.

I was advised to open the gap up to 0.030" at least; so I did.

I took the opportunity to scope the top of the pistons and I saw a few things that are worrying me. Although, I think its premature since the motor only has 15 miles on it.

Spark Plugs

Top of cylinders

Piston 1

Piston 2

Piston 3

Piston 4

Piston 5

Piston 6

Piston 7

Piston 8

 

[BadPiggy]

What you need to do is drive that MF like you stole it!

I have never seen someone so damn analytical in all my life.
I fully understand that you have bucks in your motor.
I'm building one, too...but I'm gonna run that sumbytch through a couple heat cycles then bury my foot through the floorboard.

Factory OEM engines don't go through the pussyfoot crap. They literally have no miles on them when they hit the dealership lot. Ever heard a salesman tell you to break the engine in?

Ever been to a NHRA event? They rebuild those Top Fuel motors in the pits. Fire it up long enough to seat the clutch. Roll it to the starting line and let the monster roll!

Break-in?
WTF is that!?

If the bitch breaks, I'll fix it.
Until then, I'm gonna enjoy every mile!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gerald,
Your cam lockouts look to be Livernois brand. I looked at their site and the only way they're listed/for sale is installed with phasers...which they're asking $550 for the pair. I hope you didn't buy them pre-installed, that's stupid money. If you were able to buy just the lockouts, where did you get them? Do you have the part number?

Your TFS Adjustable Gearset...did that come from TFS directly?

Where did you acquire the Cam Degreeing Toolset?

Any other pertinent info to these specific parts would be appreciated.

EDIT: also on the Livernois site, I saw that the lockouts come in 2 variations. A 0 degree and a 10 degree. Which did you buy? How do you know which you'd need?

Finally found my invoice from Livernois...

The part number is: LME3VLOCKOUT - 3 VLV PHASER LOCKOUT KIT-PAIR
$49.99

 

[AutoXRacer]

What you need to do is drive that MF like you stole it!

I have never seen someone so damn analytical in all my life.
I fully understand that you have bucks in your motor.
I'm building one, too...but I'm gonna run that sumbytch through a couple heat cycles then bury my foot through the floorboard.

Factory OEM engines don't go through the pussyfoot crap. They literally have no miles on them when they hit the dealership lot. Ever heard a salesman tell you to break the engine in?

Ever been to a NHRA event? They rebuild those Top Fuel motors in the pits. Fire it up long enough to seat the clutch. Roll it to the starting line and let the monster roll!

Break-in?
WTF is that!?

If the bitch breaks, I'll fix it.
Until then, I'm gonna enjoy every mile!

I hear you... But I can only go by what the pros tell me.

The motors in NHRA are meant to run one or two 1/4 runs...not 100K miles reliably. Those motors are so loose its insane. Sure you can slap one together and run it...its only going a 1/4. lol

And I hear ya about new cars, those poor cars every single time they are taken out are dogged.

I have been a lot more aggressive with this motor than the last one. I spoke with my builder, tuner, local reputable Mustang shop, and Total Seal engineer. I took all their instructions and molded it into one. They all had the same general recommendation.

And that's what I did.

I have an appointment on Tuesday to go dyno tuning...so it will definitely be driven to the max then.

I can't really drive it like a stole it, when you hit 70 mph in a blink of an eye, there are no roads clear enough for that. So dyno it is.

 

[BruceH]

Gerald. There are lots of us without all the special tricks in our motors who do just fine. Have you ever thought about doing what works for people with successful mod motor builds? Not the people who blew their motors because of xxxxxxxx but the ones who have had their motors drive and wear like stock?

What is worrying you about the cylinders/pistons? Is it the vertical marks?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gerald. There are lots of us without all the special tricks in our motors who do just fine. Have you ever thought about doing what works for people with successful mod motor builds? Not the people who blew their motors because of xxxxxxxx but the ones who have had their motors drive and wear like stock?

What is worrying you about the cylinders/pistons? Is it the vertical marks?

Just wondering really. Like I said, the motor only has 4 heat cycles and 15 miles.

The plugs I think look good especially since they are not oily and have carbon on them. Something the previous motor did not.

Just gathering data and documenting.

Not sure what to think about the vertical marks... I am thinking its normal for an engine this new with so little operating time.

 

[BruceH]

You can still do some good loading on highway 9. Get into the gas on hills. As soon as you feel the motor working smooth with a higher rpm load it some more.

I've had the vertical marks in bores on teardown and I haven't had them. Never noticed any difference in blowby or oil consumption either. Stock motors don't usually have them. I wonder if it's the tighter clearance, pistons that don't expand as much as aftermarket, softer rings with less tension, or what? We all know that the special racer "must do" machining operations aren't done on factory motors.

Get those rings seated. Maybe I'll see you on highway 9.

 

[one eyed willy]

Using the clutch to slow down instead of the brakes will also help with break-in.

I beat on mine pretty good the very first time I drove it for a good 15 minutes. A lot of WOT and a lot of slowing with the clutch.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Oh snap!!! This new motor is the cat jammies!!!! OMG!!!

Spent the day at the dyno!! Damn this motor is wild!!!

With less PSI (boost) I am making gobs more power!!

 

[walker2t]

and.......................

 

[skwerl]

I think JDM makes a great short block but I'd never have them put a complete motor together for me. After 2.5 years I'm glad you finally got this engine thing resolved.

 

[BadPiggy]

I think JDM makes a great short block but I'd never have them put a complete motor together for me. After 2.5 years I'm glad you finally got this engine thing resolved.

Will 2nd Brian.


Except the JDM building a complete engine thing. I can't say that they can or can't.

 

[s8v4o]

In the the carnage pics! Just kidding man glad it's ironed out.

 

[JimIII@JDM]

I think JDM makes a great short block but I'd never have them put a complete motor together for me. After 2.5 years I'm glad you finally got this engine thing resolved.

Sorry to hear that, considering we build about 1/4 of the engines running in NHRA competition Cobra Jet Mustangs that make up 1500 HP and run low 8 high 7 sec 1/4 miles. These race engines hold up for SEASONS doing so. Not to mention the 1,000+ modular engines JDM has built since the mid 90's for street cars. Guess that is not up to your standards. We helped you as much as we could when you had questions buying your JDM shortblock you loved so much. Gerald had problems he developed on his own. Let it rest, this 2+ year long thread is now about the new engine Gerald assembled, hope it works out well for him!!

 

[BadPiggy]

Sorry to hear that, considering we build about 1/4 of the engines running in NHRA competition Cobra Jet Mustangs that make up 1500 HP and run low 8 high 7 sec 1/4 miles. These race engines hold up for SEASONS doing so. Not to mention the 1,000+ modular engines JDM has built since the mid 90's for street cars. Guess that is not up to your standards. We helped you as much as we could when you had questions buying your JDM shortblock you loved so much. Gerald had problems he developed on his own. Let it rest, this 2+ year long thread is now about the new engine Gerald assembled, hope it works out well for him!!

Jim,
You may be jumping the gun or reading more into what is there.

Brian (skwerl) may very well have just meant that the assembly portion of the long block is too easy/fun/whatever to pay someone to do it. I personally didn't read his response as a dig towards JDM.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I guess I was not aware that my engine guy is a secret famous european race engine builder. The shop I took the car to get dyno (WOT tuning with Lito) told me amazing things about my engine builder. He says he is highly regarded around the US for building the best heads and race motors around; he (the engine builder, doesn't toot his own horn). Yes, my motor got built like a $100K race motor... lol

The motor made gobs more power with less boost than last time.

I am going to use the numbers the shop is advertising in their FB page for consistency sake...

How does 680HP/605TQ at the wheels with 13.5 PSI sound? Thats a conservative (safe) tune running 92 octane.