Anyone Remove Their ABS?

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sqidds

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Anyone disable and remove their ABS?

I’ve already gotten real close to wadding the car a few times because the ABS kicked in when entering a corner because of a surface change (traction, small elevation change) and it stays “on” way too long and causes the car to run real wide. In addition to that ABS kills brake feel and weighs a ton.

I’m thinking all I need to do is remove the ABS hardware and run hard line from the master to the corners. And a proportioning valve of course.

Does anyone know if I am going to run into any computer issues? Limp home mode crap? Exploding foglights, blown muffler bearings, etc?

I suspect I will get an ABS light but I could care less about that. I have a AIM Research dash sitting in front of my tach, I wouldn’t be able to see the light anyway.

Thanks a lot
 

TexasKyle

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Maybe I'm just being a smartass here but..

If you went "real wide" in a turn, chances are you were just going to fast to begin with. Had nothing to do with the ABS more than likely. If the ABS was on, it's because you still had the brake pedal mashed in....

There is a reason ABS is standard on damn near every vehicle made. It's because it's better.
 

Brn N Rubr

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I'm guessing this might be for a more road course driven car vice a regular street car.
 

danbev07

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I'm swapping a 4.6L with an 06ECU into my ABS-free v6 mustang.

The tuners I have spoken to say it's not going to be any issue, whatsoever. They did mention to be careful of the muffler bearings, and the headlight fluid might get a little hotter with the special tunes ;)

Sounds like it's something that can be tuned off.

Can't get you a definitive answer until the week of Christmas... when I set up for the swap again (wiring issues forced me to bail on it this past weekend).
 

alloy6ix

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I'm swapping a 4.6L with an 06ECU into my ABS-free v6 mustang.

The tuners I have spoken to say it's not going to be any issue, whatsoever. They did mention to be careful of the muffler bearings, and the headlight fluid might get a little hotter with the special tunes ;)

Sounds like it's something that can be tuned off.

Can't get you a definitive answer until the week of Christmas... when I set up for the swap again (wiring issues forced me to bail on it this past weekend).

Same here, swapping the 3V into my 6 with no ABS. don't think it'll be much of a problem since I don't plan on going to the nurburgring or monza anytime soon.
 

Hawgman

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LOL you are correct ! We all drive in the rain though ...

Shit.. you would be surprised how many people are afraid to get their cars wet.
 

irishpwr46

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i was just out in the rain. and you know what, when it snows, ill be out in that too
 

JimC

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My V6 has ABS and TCS

And I drive it rain or snow

with a PB at the track of 13.4 @ 102.

ABS and TCS have never presented a problem and the ABS has helped out on many snowy days. Sounds to me though like the OP may have experienced some bumpsteer in addition to being on the brakes and taking the turn a little too hot.
 

sqidds

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Maybe I'm just being a smartass here but..

If you went "real wide" in a turn, chances are you were just going to fast to begin with. Had nothing to do with the ABS more than likely. If the ABS was on, it's because you still had the brake pedal mashed in....
I spend between 5 and 10 thousand miles a year on the race track and get paid $1000 a day to teach. It’s fair to say I have a fairly good understanding of what is too fast and how brakes work.


There is a reason ABS is standard on damn near every vehicle made. It's because it's better.
Incorrect, ABS was invented for the lowest common denominator, not because it offers better performance. If ABS was “better” every race car on the planet would have it. Even Rally cars don’t run ABS and they run on snow and dirt/mud.

I'm swapping a 4.6L with an 06ECU into my ABS-free v6 mustang.

The tuners I have spoken to say it's not going to be any issue, whatsoever. They did mention to be careful of the muffler bearings, and the headlight fluid might get a little hotter with the special tunes ;)

Sounds like it's something that can be tuned off.

Can't get you a definitive answer until the week of Christmas... when I set up for the swap again (wiring issues forced me to bail on it this past weekend).


If I am reading this correctly you are saying that you have talked with “tuners” and they said swapping a V-8 harness into the V-6 Chassis with no ABS is a non issue?

Thanks
 
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TexasKyle

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I spend between 5 and 10 thousand miles a year on the race track and get paid $1000 a day to teach. It’s fair to say I have a fairly good understanding of what is too fast and how brakes work.



Incorrect, ABS was invented for the lowest common denominator, not because it offers better performance. If ABS was “better” every race car on the planet would have it. Even Rally cars don’t run ABS and they run on snow and dirt/mud.

First off, you have 11 posts (now), so no one knows you. No ones knows any of the above mentioned crap. If you were referring to a "race car" then you should have mentioned that in your first post. Your lack of details made you sound like someone that wanted to blame ABS for something that could be prevented by slowing down in a turn, so don't come in here and get your panties in a wad.

That being said, you are correct about the ABS. It was made for the lowest common form of driver. It is substantially better for a street car than the old way though, and that can not really be disputed I think.
 

AirGoNomyk

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I spend between 5 and 10 thousand miles a year on the race track and get paid $1000 a day to teach. It’s fair to say I have a fairly good understanding of what is too fast and how brakes work.



Incorrect, ABS was invented for the lowest common denominator, not because it offers better performance. If ABS was “better” every race car on the planet would have it. Even Rally cars don’t run ABS and they run on snow and dirt/mud.


No offence here, but...What in the fuck do you teach that's worth a thousand dollars a day to someone?
 

DusterRT

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Incorrect, ABS was invented for the lowest common denominator, not because it offers better performance. If ABS was “better” every race car on the planet would have it. Even Rally cars don’t run ABS and they run on snow and dirt/mud.

I disagree about ABS and the whole lowest common denominator thing. A properly calibrated ABS system can do phenomenal things, and a lot of race cars do retain ABS; albeit with radical recalibration. Some classes don't permit things such as ABS, it's not that the teams wouldn't want it (eg, F1 and active suspension). And as an instructor you should know comparing rally and road racing is apples and oranges..

That said, the stock GT ABS can be over-sensitive if you're aggressive on the brakes. It's calibrated for a stock car on stock tires with stock pads for day to day driving. Most guys don't seem to complain about it even with race pads and R-compounds, but I can see how you might have issues if you're running on the ragged edge. There are upgrades that don't involve ditching the ABS; what are the details on your brakes? Stock GT? Big brakes?

Stoptech has some great technical articles, and this is one that can give you a primer on how modern ABS works.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_abs_bigbrakekits.shtml
 

Matt D

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Might do this to this winter.... lol Im going to need every pound I can get xD
 

sqidds

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That said, the stock GT ABS can be over-sensitive if you're aggressive on the brakes. It's calibrated for a stock car on stock tires with stock pads for day to day driving. Most guys don't seem to complain about it even with race pads and R-compounds, but I can see how you might have issues if you're running on the ragged edge. There are upgrades that don't involve ditching the ABS; what are the details on your brakes? Stock GT? Big brakes?


I’m only having one issue with them and that is when I am trail braking and encounter a slight rise in the road surface which causes the tire to unload after it has rolled over the “peak”. Once the tire unloads the ABS kicks in reducing the braking available from that wheel considerably and if I am feeling things correctly it also reduces braking force from the other tire, just not nearly as much. Eve if the tire that unloaded immediately “lands” on the far side of the rise and regains 100% traction the ABS is still doing its thing. This also happens if encountering sand, leaves, etc. If the ABS was as quick to react to getting the traction back as it was when it lost it there would be no problem. But if it takes the ABS 1-2 seconds to return to 100% braking you line entering the corner can widen considerably. And of course that just creates more problems because as the line gets wider you are more likely to encounter less than ideal surface conditions.

Secondarily the OEM ABS robs a lot of feel from the brake pedal so threshold braking is just that much more difficult.

If the ABS was “smarter” it would be a non issue, but in my opinion it’s no smarter than my F-150. I’m sure the ABS you get with a Z06, M3, etc is quite a bit better at its job.

My brake setup is fairly basic. GT500 calipers/rotors in front with OEM pads that were bedded in perfectly. Stainless lines, good fluid and I have ducts for it if I ever get this car on the track. The rear brakes are stock. Up front I am running 275mm R compound tires.

I am tempted to remove the ABS completely because when on track I am never driving anything with it and it doesn’t bother me in the least. The system weighs 40lb+ (I have been told) and getting more weight out of the nose would be great. And it’s nearly a free mod. Upgrading the quality of the ABS system can’t possibly be inexpensive, if it’s even possible.

If you have any insight I am all ears. It’s nice to read a post by someone that doesn’t act like they are 8 years old.

Thanks
 

05stroker

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What all is in the "system" that weighs 40+ lbs ? You would just remove the control module correct ? Then run new lines and and bleed.
 
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