Cams and timing

Samos3

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Okay!....I'm back. Delays, delays, delays. Rain, overtime, etc.

Took the GT500 pump out. Put in the Melling 360HV. Details will be in the GT500 Oil Pump thread later.

That means everything had to come back out.

Got the new pump in, reinstalled all the timing components, then did all 24 rockers...again. Went much faster this time. It is easier to do when you aren't pulling them straight out of the oil they've been soaking in. They tend to stay in your fingers a little better for some reason.
Did learn a little more finesse with the spring compressor tool. When getting the compressor foot onto the valve retainer, sometimes pulling back and up on the fork gives you just the needed room. It's not much and too far you start over.
You still get the top and threaded part in place then swing the foot in place.
Removal is the reverse, remove the knob, pull back and up slightly on the fork, swing the foot off the valve retainer and out it comes...mostly.
The nice thing this time around is that the dime sized missing skin from my right forefinger had pretty much grown back. Between the oil and the knurled sides of the knob, doing the back of the left head took that skin off pretty quick.
The a/c lines back there are just in the right place to cause grief. So is the dipstick tube. Took the nut off at the head to get some wiggle. I don't know if it can be removed completely.

Installed the new front cover. Remove the bottom most waterpump bolt. It interferes with the cover.

As for the cover bolts....if you forget which ones go where (should have taken a picture!.. I did, but couldnt see them all), the FSM has a chart of dimensions and they are numbered to match the torque sequence. I looked up some engines for sale on Ebay and found a nice clear pic of the front of a motor.

The pic of the pretty new timing cover:

20260525_181143.jpg

Now, I need to fill in the corrosion voids on the block at the oil filter adapter. One of them falls right in line with the seal on the new revised gasket. Won't take much, but I feel better with something backing that seal.


20260506_142356.jpg



The other thing is I'd like to install a tee fitting for an oil pressure gauge. I think maybe a mechanical gauge mounted under the hood and some braided stainless teflon hose. If not, then at least something easy to hook up without disturbing the factory sensor. Maybe.
The angles down there might not work with what I want.

Getting there. Need to give the new valve covers a good cleaning, too.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Maybe JB weld will fill those pores?
That would do it though quick steel epoxy paste cures a lot faster.

The other thing is I'd like to install a tee fitting for an oil pressure gauge. I think maybe a mechanical gauge mounted under the hood and some braided stainless teflon hose. If not, then at least something easy to hook up without disturbing the factory sensor. Maybe.
The angles down there might not work with what I want.
There's a decent amount of room to insert a T fitting for an oil pressure gauge but I'd prefer an electrical gauge that I can mount inside one of the air vents.
 

Samos3

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That would do it though quick steel epoxy paste cures a lot faster.


There's a decent amount of room to insert a T fitting for an oil pressure gauge but I'd prefer an electrical gauge that I can mount inside one of the air vents.
It's such a small, shallow spot, but still deep and wide enough to cause an issue with that seal, I want to apply with a razor blade to avoid sanding on that machined seal surface. The thicker putties might be a little too thick and want to just pull off while shaving the surface smooth. The JB I have is the tube type, more workable and 550 degree temp range. Even that might not want to stay.
I may have to deepen the pitting with a dremel to get anything to really stick and not have a lump to sand down.

I considered the vent gauge. Not too crazy about extra gauges inside, but I haven't finished deciding. Might just go cheap for now with electric and have a pigtail inside to plug a guage into when I want.
 

Samos3

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Well, finally!.......after slow progress due to weather, overtime, and other commitments, it lives!

I put the oil pressure gauge idea on hold for a bit. I think I have the right combination of fittings and the wire harness will reach the sensor just fine, maybe even a little more slack. But I don't have time at the moment to fuss around. Soon, though....

After making sure everything is good to go this week, I hope to put a test gauge on it to check oil pressure with the 5w20 that is in it and then change the oil and put 5w30 in and check the pressure for comparison.

I put the old valve covers back on for now. I want to give the other covers a really good cleaning before installing.
 

Samos3

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And...the JB Weld repair to the oil filter adapter flange on the block:
20260606_131504.jpg

Flat as can be. Two applications using a steel single edge razor blade. A fresh new blade works well as a squeegee without leaving much at all on the uncorroded surface. Let the first layer set up, scuff (red scotchbrite, maybe a piece that isnt brand new so it isnt too aggressive) that so it has some roughness for the second layer to grab, otherwise the second layer might separate from the first. Then scuff that layer as well for the gasket/sealer to grab it.
Done right there is nothing to sand.
 

Samos3

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Hooray!.....all done! Went for a test drive and all seems well. Can't tell if it seems stronger anywhere in the rpm range. Maybe that's a sign everything was still working well at 235k and there was no noticeable drop in performance.

Melling 360HV oil pump:
On cold start with 5w20 Motorcraft synthetic blend I had 90 psi. This eventually dropped to 30-ish when fully hot. To my utter shame, I forgot to get a reading at 2k hot.
Did an oil/filter change to 5w30 Mobil 1 Advanced with Ford 820s filter.
Motor still relatively warm (I let it sit for 45 minutes) with oil about 75-80degrees when I refilled, I had 80psi right away idling. When fully warm I had 35psi idling and 70-75 at 2k hot.
This was using a Harbor Freight Maddox oil pressure gauge in place of the oil pressure sending unit. Hose was about 5feet long, so maybe assume a few psi drop due to the rubber hose.
 

Samos3

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Another update...

I've got almost 200 miles on it since Sunday. As I mentioned I switched to the Mobil 1 Advanced Clean full synthetic 5w-30.

So for a few years now, I've had a very slight tapping sound when started cold. Noticeable when idling during warm up, so 750-1500 rpm. As it warms up, it would go away. Over the past couple years it has become more audible and last longer, sometimes even after a long drive at highway speeds. It seemed to be at half speed which had me thinking cam related. Or worse, a rod bearing/piston pin/piston slap on the power stroke.
My hope was valvetrain and my recent efforts would eliminate it.
No such luck. It was still there.

But, over the past two days it has diminished significantly. Faint, but I can hear it and it goes away again when hot.

I am wondering if there wasn't some gum/varnish causing a sticking somewhere that the new oil with cleaning agents is freeing up.
Time will tell. Maybe.
 

Reddawg

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This has been a great thread and very interesting. It's also inspired me to go ahead and swap my stock cams for Ford Performance Hot Rod cams. It's something that has been on my list and when AM had a set marked down 50% for open box, I couldn't say no.

While I have a couple torque wrenches, I don't have one that does inch lbs. Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent one that's not professional level expensive? I've found many that go down to 10 inch lbs. and one 'old school' style that does (https://a.co/d/09laalHJ). Is 10 inch lbs. close enough or too much for the cam caps? Should I get the old school style and shoot for the space between 8 and 9 inch pounds?

Opinions and thoughts please!
 

Samos3

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Thanks for the comment. I am trying to be thorough and detailed. That way, if I get something wrong someone will spot it faster. If I get it right, maybe that helps the next guy.
Most of the hardware involved is either 18ft/lbs or 89 in/lbs. Except for the crank pulley and the four front oil pan bolts.
I spent some trying to figure out the best options on the inch pounds torque wrench.
In the end, I bought the Icon 3/8" 40-200 in/lbs wrench (it comes with a certified calibration) and the 3/8" digital torque adapter. After reading how to use the Icon click wrench, I kind of had to decipher what they actually meant to do.
When you do the 'setting' (everytime you get it out of the box you screw it to max then min readings 3 times) do not go past the min and max markings at all.
Be precise. Until i did that, it would not agree with the digital adapter. It would 10 in/lbs off.
The digital adapter agreed with my old Autozone 1/2" ft/lbs beam wrench right away. So I figured once the Icon clicker was consistent with the digital adapter, the Icon was good to go. The clicker is stored at min setting.
So, I have both of those now. Not the cheapest, but more peace of mind.
 
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Samos3

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Also, the vast majority of torque wrenches are not considered reliably accurate in bottom 10-20% of their scale.

As I recall....
 

whitmanink

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lol im glad to see my fingers weren't the only ones getting ripped to meat from that knurled knob !
(from the oct tool)

my finger was an open sore for a week and made working on the heads that much more of a pain lol

so i wore a pvc glove .....
 

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