Car is running but throwing codes like crazy. Please help

[Garrett brittain]

Hey everyone,

I made a shorter post about this a few days ago but felt like I should make another one highlighting every single code that my car is throwing, and the circumstances around them. This post may be a little long but if you have the time please read through it and give any advice if you have any, it would be very very appreciated

recently my car’s battery dash light came on and the info box on the dash read “check charging system”. This light kept turning on then back off again over multiple days yet the car was behaving completely normal, I plugged in my tuner and found that I was throwing codes P0600, P0622, P2105, and U0300. I will list all of these codes at the bottom of the post and what they mean so you don’t have to look them up.

the car continued to have these codes but run, start and drive completely normal, so I just kept driving it without a worry.

a couple days ago, I installed Ford’s hot rod cams into the car. The install went beautifully, I had zero issues with the install, the timing chain didn’t come off the phaser or anything like that. After install was complete, I loaded a BAMA tune and started the car, yet again it’s running and driving how it should with a nice lopey idle, but now I’m throwing even more codes. P0340 and P0344 along with all other codes I listed before.

this is starting to scare me. According to all these codes, it seems like my car is about to blow into a million pieces, but it’s running and driving perfectly fine, it doesn’t seem to be in any sort of limp mode. But I can’t ignore all these codes any longer, they can’t just be there for no reason.

I’m just about to list all the codes meanings, but after doing some research on all of them, it seems like most of them have one possible thing in common: a bad alternator. I know that’s a common failure for these cars, but I want this issue fixed without taking it to a mechanic and him recommend me do $2000 worth of replacements.

Any kind of help or advice is welcome and I mean literally anything. I just want this issue fixed. Thank you all for reading, here are the code meanings.


P0600 - loss of serial communication link


P0622 - generator field terminal circuit


P2105 - Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown. (My engine never forcefully turned itself off or ran unusually, I’m not sure why I got this code, but my throttle is behaving normally and my engine has yet to shut itself off even once)


U0300 - internal control module software incompatibility


P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1


P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Intermittent Bank 1 or Single Sensor

 

[datmbn]

The alternator is high on the list
get an alternator for 2010 they are more durable

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

You did forget to mention in your previous thread that you were already having problems and this changes things. I agree that a bad alternator diode sounds like the most likely culprit. To confirm this, perform an AC ripple test. It's a simple procedure if you have a digital multimeter, and there are helpful videos in YouTube to guide you.
Nevertheless I still recommend that you go to Lito for a new tune.

 

[Juice]

P0600, normal aftet a reflash.
P0622 is an alternator code & 2105 maybe a real tb issue or a result of alternator issue.
U0300 is from a poorly written tune, the self test detected altered programming
And you have cam sensor codes after a cam install. You modified your car that already had some issues and now you have more issues. I would not have installed cams before fixing those codes first. Now you dont know if the cam codes are a result of the install or the electrical issues. Makes fixing it twice as hard.

 

[Garrett brittain]

P0600, normal aftet a reflash.
P0622 is an alternator code & 2105 maybe a real tb issue or a result of alternator issue.
U0300 is from a poorly written tune, the self test detected altered programming
And you have cam sensor codes after a cam install. You modified your car that already had some issues and now you have more issues. I would not have installed cams before fixing those codes first. Now you dont know if the cam codes are a result of the install or the electrical issues. Makes fixing it twice as hard.

yeah putting cams in probably wasn’t the best decision but oh well, at least the car still runs. After doing research on the cam sensor codes, they seem to also lead back to a faulty alternator.

 

[Juice]

Yup, fix alternator/charging issue first. Than you can see what codes (if any) return.
I would not be concerned with the incompatible software code unless a: CEL is on, or b: need to get smog tested.

 

[Forty61]

yeah putting cams in probably wasn’t the best decision but oh well, at least the car still runs. After doing research on the cam sensor codes, they seem to also lead back to a faulty alternator.

Cams are totally worth it for the sound alone. I’ve got Hot Rods in my car, still smile every time I start it.

I agree with getting one of the 2010+ alternators, I did that upgrade not too long ago and it works like a champ. I just got a cheapo one from Oreillys, had to reclock the case for it but it dropped straight in.

 

[Zoso]

Maybe not much help but, had similar problems after I installed the Ford HR Cams and a BAMA tune. The car was throwing codes for being lean. I called BAMA - discussed with a tech - they shot me a new tune - problem solved. You might call them. Advice given on the alternator sounds right. Fix one thing at a time. Good Luck

 

[DieHarder]

Do yourself a favor and check engine grounds. To test if grounds are a cause why the alternator is acting up take a pair of jumper cables and attach one side to the passenger strut tower ground and attach the other end to a mounting bolt on the alternator. (Ground to ground only; no B+ is involved). If the battery/ charging system light go out you have grounding issues. It's an easy test; only takes a couple of minutes. If no change in your symptoms time to look at getting another alternator.

 

[Iceman62]

Also, let it be a lesson, whenever working/installing upgrades you need to fix one error/mistake before proceeding to the next. Otherwise, as you see, they'll start stacking on top of one-another and then you're "chasing gremlins" all over the place. Hope you get the issues resolved...

 

[Deon Lee]

I was having the same battery light and check charging system come on but my car was running fine car started fine and ran fine but still annoying that the light kept coming on so I ordered a 2010 alternator and been driving it for 3 months now and haven’t seen the battery light nor the message in the box. Funny thing is I installed the same cams soon after fixing the alternator problem but I went with a Lito tune, which from my research was the only way to go and his prices are very good. I got my n/a tune for bolt ons and cams plus a nitrous tune for $250. Also any bolt ons I add later will be free just email him the changes and he sends a new file. You will have to do some data logs which honestly you should want to. Took him about 2 weeks total to get both my tunes where he wanted them. That was me data logging one day sending him the logs and the next day he’d have me a revision I’d load that into the car data log send it to him and so on.

 

[Juice]

I would not consider BAMA "tuners". They do not do any remote tuning via datalogs. They just have value files to go with mods.
There used to be a.guy working there who was good (i think his name was Mike). He built tunes on the dyno for mustangs. Think of this as a 'canned tune'. But he left there years ago.
Search this board, just have Lito tune it.