Clutch problems

[JeremyH]

Mike's gonna try a different clutch he has at the shop. An act twin disc.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Good news I hope!

 

[retfr8flyr]

Jeremy I hate to see all the problems you are having but now you know what I went through waiting on mine. Hell isn't it, yours has been 2 months mine was 2 years.


Earl

 

[Irishman]

Ya man good luck. Sucks not having your car during the summer.

 

[JeremyH]

Jeremy I hate to see all the problems you are having but now you know what I went through waiting on mine. Hell isn't it, yours has been 2 months mine was 2 years.


Earl

Yeah I cant imagine how you felt Earl!

Im not complaining about the time really at all, since Mike is hooking me up, he has had the trans in and out of the car 3-4 times now!

 

[JeremyH]

Leaning towards an internal issue with the rst with the inner/outer disc clearance and the link that someone posted where you have to sometimes shim the disc or floater plate inside the clutch. So if this ACT clutch works I will be sending the rst back to mcleod to have it inspected/adjusted.

Its a ACT 26 spline twin disc clutch normaly for 03/04 cobra btw.

 

[gil_t2]

Are you going to keep the ACT if it works? If not i would test with a single disc to keep it simple.

 

[JeremyH]

Are you going to keep the ACT if it works? If not i would test with a single disc to keep it simple.

Most likely, Mike has the act clutch at the shop already, so he called up a guy who used an act twin disc with his 6060 swap and oem slave with shim and its been in his car for 6 months no issues.

Well hopefully this works and I dont have to go to a single to test it.

 

[tbrock]

since this seems to be "the" clutch thread I will post my RST update. Since going with a McLeod al. fw with the RST and no shim the car is shifting good. However, I have had it be difficult to get out of 1st and 2nd gear when creeping in a parking lot or pulling up to a light. The car shifts great and goes into gear with ease. Just this one minor hiccup. We did have a bit of a ridge on the inner portion of the inner disc which developed when we used the Exedy fw. I hope that this is what is causing a slight drag and that after a few more miles it will go away? The clutch release is pretty close to the bottom of the pedal? We'll see after I get some more miles on her.

 

[gil_t2]

Your measurements were just about in the middle, so after break-in if the release point moves lower you will need the spacer.

 

[JeremyH]

since this seems to be "the" clutch thread I will post my RST update. Since going with a McLeod al. fw with the RST and no shim the car is shifting good. However, I have had it be difficult to get out of 1st and 2nd gear when creeping in a parking lot or pulling up to a light. The car shifts great and goes into gear with ease. Just this one minor hiccup. We did have a bit of a ridge on the inner portion of the inner disc which developed when we used the Exedy fw. I hope that this is what is causing a slight drag and that after a few more miles it will go away? The clutch release is pretty close to the bottom of the pedal? We'll see after I get some more miles on her.

My rst with the 3650 took a good 2 months to break in and for the pedal to final settle out to halfway and it was perfect.

 

[redstangs9308gt]

since this seems to be "the" clutch thread I will post my RST update. Since going with a McLeod al. fw with the RST and no shim the car is shifting good. However, I have had it be difficult to get out of 1st and 2nd gear when creeping in a parking lot or pulling up to a light. The car shifts great and goes into gear with ease. Just this one minor hiccup. We did have a bit of a ridge on the inner portion of the inner disc which developed when we used the Exedy fw. I hope that this is what is causing a slight drag and that after a few more miles it will go away? The clutch release is pretty close to the bottom of the pedal? We'll see after I get some more miles on her.

My 3650&Rst always did what ^^^^^^ he said his clutch was doing. My new setup was doing the same thing. My car didn't want to come out of gear when at low speeds remember me talking about it earlier? I have now put close to 400 miles on the new setup and it is working perfect with shim. Tomorrow for sure I will take pics of the rst and show you how my clutch wasn't fully disengaging. You can see it clearly on the floater ring. Jermey have you got any more updates with your new setup yet?

 

[RRRoamer]

It aint rocket science folks. Just bench bleed it first. 10 minutes tops to bleed at most. The system once the clutch comes up a little will self bleed while driving to get the last ~10% or so out and come up all the way. The old way to lift the driver side up without bench bleeding might take as long a 30 minutes...maybe more depending on how patient you are with the pedel.

Now the bench bleeding does take a little time and patient too. Use a syringe.

It's not that big a problem even without bench bleeding or vacuuming it. When I did mine, I pumped the pedal slowly for about 10 minutes before I got a solid enough pedal to drive the car. The next morning, the pedal was pretty much as hard as normal with nothing else done to it other than letting it sit over night.

 

[gil_t2]

It's not that big a problem even without bench bleeding or vacuuming it. When I did mine, I pumped the pedal slowly for about 10 minutes before I got a solid enough pedal to drive the car. The next morning, the pedal was pretty much as hard as normal with nothing else done to it other than letting it sit over night.

This really is not about bleeding the clutch, Some guys thought there systems were not properly bled. But the problems were the different designs of the pressure plates, That caused improper preload. Some guys were reluctant to install shims. Some flywheels can also cause the problem.

I would never pump bleed the clutch, i do not care how many people have been Lucky in doing it. The seals are easily damaged on the two slaves. Anyone that does this kind of work should have a vacuum pump, and do it the right way. BTW I have done this stuff for over 40 years.

 

[RRRoamer]

This really is not about bleeding the clutch, Some guys thought there systems were not properly bled. But the problems were the different designs of the pressure plates, That caused improper preload. Some guys were reluctant to install shims. Some flywheels can also cause the problem.

I would never pump bleed the clutch, i do not care how many people have been Lucky in doing it. The seals are easily damaged on the two slaves. Anyone that does this kind of work should have a vacuum pump, and do it the right way. BTW I have done this stuff for over 40 years.

I know. I was replying to the assorted posts about bleeding the clutch with/without vacuum, with/without bench bleeding, etc.

As for vacuum bleeding, I have no doubt that is the fastest way to get all the air out of the system.

As for damaging the seals by pumping the pedal, I'm not too worried about it. It was evident that there was already a lot of oil in the slave when we first started (due to gravity) bleeding it. It's not like the slave is moving at high speed during the bleeding and damaging the seal due to heat. Even if no fluid made it to the slave, just the lube put on when the slave was manufactured would be enough to prevent damage during the bleeding.

But, if I was doing it for money, I WOULD use the vacuum tool simply because I would want it DONE in 10 minutes instead of "pretty good" in 10 minutes and DONE over night.

 

[gil_t2]

It is not heat, the seals can be damaged if push to the ends of there travel when dry or very low on fluid. Some guys that posted here, have said (I pump the hell out of it ). So i see them not gently moving the pedal up and down, Some of the people are new to doing this work, and it is all ways worth doing correctly. And like you said, fill the TB with fluid before installing.

 

[RRRoamer]

It is not heat, the seals can be damaged if push to the ends of there travel when dry or very low on fluid. Some guys that posted here, have said (I pump the hell out of it ). So i see them not gently moving the pedal up and down, Some of the people are new to doing this work, and it is all ways worth doing correctly. And like you said, fill the TB with fluid before installing.

That's the trick though: when the slave is full of air, it doesn't matter how far you move the pedal, the slave won't move much because the air compresses and can't generate enough force to move the pressure plate (much).

But I can see some guy trying to get the pedal bled before a date or something and pumping the shit out of it as fast as he can with his tongue hanging out!

 

[JeremyH]

ACT twin disc clutch is in with the oem 05-09 slave and shim and its works great!

I guess the only crappy part now is it costs $1k and is reated to 900tq lol, and have to send this rst to get looked at by mcleod.

More to come.

 

[retfr8flyr]

That's about what your labor cost is going to be. lol


Earl

 

[JeremyH]

That's about what your labor cost is going to be. lol


Earl

Mikes actually hooking me up on the labor cost a bit but still gota come up with some change for the new clutch and then gota have the rst inspected/fixed by Mcleod before I can sell it which sucks!