Front Suspension Help Needed

[Miker]

I am having trouble finding the rear spring isolators for the rear springs. LMR has them but over 100 for 4 chunks of rubber seems excessive. Is there a better place to get them?

 

[GriffX]

tascaparts, but still 80$, wow....

 

[DieHarder]

Is there some reason I cannot simply take off my heat shields from my stock arms and bolt them on to the GT500 arms?

No problem, they fit all years. 2005 - 2014 as long as the arms have the tabs on them. Some aftermarket versions don't.

 

[GlassTop09]

Is there some reason I cannot simply take off my heat shields from my stock arms and bolt them on to the GT500 arms?

+1 w\ DieHarder's answer............

 

[Miker]

Almost ordered the Prothane bushings last night for my sway bars but before I did I wanted to make sure the rear sway bar was 20mm. So today I got the rear up in the air to check the sway bar and lower control arm bushings. Everything was tight. I could get no movement pushing or pulling up or down on the swat bar and no visible damage or wear on the bushings. The LCAs also felt tight. I am getting some clunking over bumps at sow speed and expected to find some play in the sway bar bushings. The wheels were on ramps so they were still supporting the weight of the car. Do I need to have stands under the body to check the sway bar and LCAs for any play? Again the car has 150K on it and everything looks original.

 

[Samos3]

The bumps may just be the sound of tired shocks.

 

[Laga]

Check the torque to the bolts of the LCAs. It is supposed to be 130 ft/lbs. These loosen up and often cause the noise you are hearing.

 

[DieHarder]

Almost ordered the Prothane bushings last night for my sway bars but before I did I wanted to make sure the rear sway bar was 20mm. So today I got the rear up in the air to check the sway bar and lower control arm bushings. Everything was tight. I could get no movement pushing or pulling up or down on the swat bar and no visible damage or wear on the bushings. The LCAs also felt tight. I am getting some clunking over bumps at sow speed and expected to find some play in the sway bar bushings. The wheels were on ramps so they were still supporting the weight of the car. Do I need to have stands under the body to check the sway bar and LCAs for any play? Again the car has 150K on it and everything looks original.

If sound is coming from the rear check the rear upper sway bar links where they connect with the body. I find that they often loosen up and that's where the slow speed clunk originates. Tightening them a bit usually takes care of it (at least on my car).

 

[Miker]

Got Covid right after my last post so I have not gotten under the car to check the bolts yet.
Another question. Ordering the Koni STR-T shock and strut set. They do not come with the dust covers for the struts. Will my original covers on my OEM struts fit on the Konis? Also is there a bottoming bumper on the stock strut that will need to be installed on the Koni Strut?

 

[JC SSP]

Sorry to hear about your COVID issue. I hope you recovered fully.

Not sure about the dust covers but you should invest in the Ford Racing bump stops.

Which Koni are you getting, the yellow or orange?

 

[Miker]

Orange Konis. Why buy new bumpers? If the shaft size is the same I mean.

 

[Miker]

I found a video of someone installing them Looks like it all will interchange.

 

[JC SSP]

You can use your stock ones, but I always upgrade. It’s just me…

Per Ford Racing:

Ford Performance Bumpstop/Jounce Bumper Kit for all 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Mustangs.

If you lowered your 2005-2014 Mustang or you're planning to do so, then you definitely need to pick up this Bumpstop/Jounce Bumper Kit from Ford Performance! These bumpers will help keep your Mustang from hitting the bumpstop after you've lowered it, creating a more comfortable and stable ride.

Features & Benefits:
- Designed to Help Improve Stability and Ride Comfort When Used with Lowering Springs
- Recommended for Lowered Mustangs
- Kit Includes Front and Rear Jounce Bumpers
- Original Equipment on 2012-2014 GT500s

This Ford Performance M-5570-A Bumpstop/Jounce Bumper Kit is designed to help improve your ride stability and comfort when used with lowering springs. These bumpers are highly recommended for lowered Mustangs because when they are compressed, they'll release slower than your stock bumpers, which creates a smoother and more enjoyable ride. As a matter of fact, these bumpers are also shorter and spongier than your factory bumpers! You'll get front and rear jounce bumpers when you place your order.

 

[GriffX]

Ford Performance Bumpstop/Jounce Bumper Kit is a benefit for not lowered cars also. You can take a look at the rear axle and see the marks from the bumpers. No more harsh kick from the rear when you drive through a pothole in a corner. In the front I have not seen any big difference.

 

[Miker]

To all those that helped me here thank you! All my parts are going to be here by the 19th. Since I am replacing lower control arms, struts, tie rods inner and outer, and sway bar end links is there any reason I cannot pull everything at once? One side at a time of course. I realize I am going to have to support the hub assembly somehow. With the inner tie rod out of the way it seems like the front LCA bolt will be easy to get out and torqued once the new LCA is installed. I am thinking once it is all out install the LCA first, then the strut, strut to hub, ball joint to hub, tie rods, then last sway bar end link. Is there anything like anti seize or grease I should be applying? I am thinking anti seize on the ball joint shaft and outer tie rod end. Anything on the front LCA bolt?
Also is there any trick to getting the ball joint separated when removing the LCA? Should that be done before removing the strut?

 

[Andrey Sidorov]

To all those that helped me here thank you! All my parts are going to be here by the 19th. Since I am replacing lower control arms, struts, tie rods inner and outer, and sway bar end links is there any reason I cannot pull everything at once? One side at a time of course. I realize I am going to have to support the hub assembly somehow. With the inner tie rod out of the way it seems like the front LCA bolt will be easy to get out and torqued once the new LCA is installed. I am thinking once it is all out install the LCA first, then the strut, strut to hub, ball joint to hub, tie rods, then last sway bar end link. Is there anything like anti seize or grease I should be applying? I am thinking anti seize on the ball joint shaft and outer tie rod end. Anything on the front LCA bolt?
Also is there any trick to getting the ball joint separated when removing the LCA? Should that be done before removing the strut?

So the lca ball joint isnt really the issue here, you can slowly hammer it out after loosening up all the lca bolts, and then use the large fork looking pry bar from autozone or something, its going to be springy (if that is even the word) and you pop the joint out. The real pita is to take the front bolt out without taking steering out, but it is doable, answering the second question is - yes you want to take strut out and take the lca out after or you wouldnt be able to wiggle that front bolt out - good luck!

 

[GriffX]

I reversed the two bolts at the hydro bushing to torque them. I have no idea to do this from top.

 

[DieHarder]

I reversed the two bolts at the hydro bushing to torque them. I have no idea to do this from top.

It can be done though kind of a pain. Helps if you have ratcheting wrenches in the right sizes.

 

[Samos3]

Technically, many of those bolts are supposed to be replaced...according to the FSM.
I bought new, but genuine Ford with the adhesive is not that cheap.

 

[Miker]

I plan on reversing the hydro bushing bolts. A video I watched already had them reversed. Same video showed the steering rack unbolted which seemed fairly easy. However if the inner tie rod and boot is removed would anything be in the way of the front LCA bolt? I am changing out the tie rods on both sides anyway so I plan to pull the side I am working on and then remove and replace the LCA before installing the new tie rod.