FRPP Suspension Kit

[flipper]

I have a 2010 GT Premium ...manual 4.6 with the factory Trac Pack option and a recently installed Edelbrock E Force SC. Runs great. 452 RWHP. 10000 miles total on the car. With that info on the table, I feel like I need a little tighter suspension to support all that extra power. I like this package...M-FR3A-MGTA....Thoughts, opinions....???

 

[Forty61]

I always used Eibach stuff, the Pro Kit with the matching sway bars will give you a nice upgrade while remaining very daily usable. Any equivalent setup would be a solid choice, I’m sure the FRPP stuff is great but I’ve never tried it personally.

 

[RocketcarX]

You would get a lot more bang for your buck with the BMR stuff, I believe it's cheaper than the FRPP kit as well.
To me the 1 inch drop isn't enough and you don't need to change the factory sway bars for a car that isn't auto-crossed at a high level. My brother installed this kit on his 07 and he loves it, but the car still sits way up in the air.
Where are you located out of curiosity.

 

[flipper]

Thanks for the replies - I'm in Detroit

 

[CammedS197]

I would say first go with BMR lower control arms and relocation brackets, BMR upper control arm and mount, and their springs, also don't forget an adjustable panhardbar.

For the swaybars just go and do prothane urethane bushings with new endlinks and shocks and struts are up to you honestly. But for daily koni orange would be great.

If you really want swaybars look into Sam Stranos swaybars. I will add his to my set up. The above description is how my car is and is fantastic. I say the BMR lowering springs because the handling ones or the FRPP could be just a little too bumpy. I switched to their 165 fronts and 160 rears cause I got tired of 230 front and 200 rear for the spring rates.

I daily my car and do 15-20k miles a year and do 3 hour drives monthly and awesome ride. But you can't go wrong with FRPP kit.

The only problem I see with that package is there are no LCA's and brackets. That is what will really put the power down and control it.

 

[46addict]

To "support extra power" the rear suspension needs to be addressed first IMO. Upper and lower rear control arms that won't deflect and a panhard bar with poly/rod end bushings. If you want to lower the car you could get an adjustable panhard and knock out two birds with one stone. Then get some decent tires. Michelin Pilot Super Sports and Continental ExtremeContacts are usually the go-to ones. If you like to do hard launching you can get an axle brace too.

 

[Juice]

I put the Roush struts/shocks/springs on. I didn't get the sway bars as I already had the Eibach swaybar kit on the car. (front is 3way adjustable) No issues with putting power down for me, I'm using the 2013 GT control arms that came with my 8.8 rear I needed for the engine swap.

I went with Roush stuff because they claim the springs and shocks are engineered to work together. The ride is definitely stiffer, but not much. And man does it corner a ton better!

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I always used Eibach stuff, the Pro Kit with the matching sway bars will give you a nice upgrade while remaining very daily usable. Any equivalent setup would be a solid choice, I’m sure the FRPP stuff is great but I’ve never tried it personally.

I don't know if you're aware of this or not, but Eibach is the manufacturer of the FRPP spring kits. At any rate, the quality between the FRPP and Eibach spring kits are pretty much considered one in the same anyhow.

 

[ox white]

....Thoughts, opinions....???

Impossible to say without knowing your intentions for the car. Daily? AutoX? HPDE? Drag? Some combination of the above?

 

[flipper]

Street driving, around town. No drag...minimal track.

 

[flipper]

Thanks for all your input guys... helpful. I’m told that because it has the factory Trac Pack option, that it’s already lower than a non Trac Pack 2010 Mustang. So the FRPP kit I’m looking at will only lower it slightly.... true?

 

[RocketcarX]

Street driving, around town. No drag...minimal track.

BMR SP011R springs, GT500 strut mounts installed with arrows facing the opposite of the instructions (this will keep camber in spec with no other modification) and new take off OEM struts and shocks from eBay.
I did something similar when I first got my car and it rode great.
You won't have $400 in parts and will only make the ride more harsh with further modification.
IF wheel hop is a issue, install lower control arm relocation brackets and the Whiteline fixed lower control arms. I'm not a fan of urethane in a 3 link suspension but you don't really have a choice if you go with the more common BMR reccomendation. Leave the stock upper control arm alone or run the RTR upper control arm with the stock upper control arm mount and the BMR differential bushing replacement.
Again I will stress that urethane with not make you happy, it is loud, doesn't articulate and WILL degrade faster than you want it to.

 

[RocketcarX]

Best bang for the buck/comfort suspension, note there are no sway bars because you have zero need for them, they will add harshness without a return in handling for your purposes.

I couldn't find the usual OEM take offs so I would go with Tokico Blues, this is a true OEM grade product
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tokico-HP-blue-shocks-05-10-Ford-Mustang-Front-Rear-Set-Made-in-USA/281509762137?fits=Year:2010|Model:Mustang&hash=item418b4a1459:g:LawAAOSwq7JT~pax&vxp=mtr

You can take the control arms out of the equation but to me this is a package I would run as is if I wanted to be one and done based on your needs

 

[ox white]

Street driving, around town. No drag...minimal track.

Rear lower control arms and some quality wider rear tires. 285s should suffice.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I'm also not a fan of urethane either, but if I had to settle for it, I'd go with J&M fixed rear lower control arms. Although their bushings are urethane, they have a unique design that includes a plastic ball that gets inserted into the urethane bushing. According to J&M, once the included marine grease that comes with the kit is applied to the bushings, they don't ever require re-greasing as their self-lubricating. The only downside IMO, is you have to assemble the bushing components yourself, so if you have any doubts when it comes to assembling bushing components, then I would advise against the J&M control arm kit. However, on the plus side, J&M does back their bushings with a lifetime warranty. At any rate, just another option that might be worth considering as well

https://www.americanmuscle.com/j-m-rear-lower-control-arms-red-0514.html

 

[RocketcarX]

I'm also not a fan of urethane either, but if I had to settle for it, I'd go with J&M fixed rear lower control arms. Although their bushings are urethane, they have a unique design that includes a plastic ball that gets inserted into the urethane bushing. According to J&M, once the included marine grease that comes with the kit is applied to the bushings, they don't ever require re-greasing as their self-lubricating. The only downside IMO, is you have to assemble the bushing components yourself, so if you have any doubts when it comes to assembling bushing components, then I would advise against the J&M control arm kit. However, on the plus side, J&M does back their bushings with a lifetime warranty. At any rate, just another option that might be worth considering as well

https://www.americanmuscle.com/j-m-rear-lower-control-arms-red-0514.html

I put a set of the J&M on my brother’s car. It’s a novel ideas but not near as effectively as the bonded “rubber” and Teflon lined joints Eibach, Whiteline, and RTR use.
The J&M joint is still effective locked down once installed.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I put a set of the J&M on my brother’s car. It’s a novel ideas but not near as effective as the bonded “rubber” and Teflon lined joints Eibach, Whiteline, and RTR use.
The J&M joint is still effective locked down once installed.

I definitely agree and much prefer bonded rubber along with Teflon lined joints over urethane any day of the week. However, I would only select the J&M kit if there were no other option available. But thanks to Eibach, Whiteline, and RTR, they have exactly the LCA's I'm looking for. Needless to say, my next set of rear lower control arms will be Whiteline for sure

 

[RocketcarX]

I definitely agree and much prefer bonded rubber along with Teflon lined joints over urethane any day of the week. However, I would only select the J&M kit if there were no other option available. But thanks to Eibach, Whiteline, and RTR, they have exactly the LCA's I'm looking for. Needless to say, my next set of rear lower control arms will be Whiteline for sure

Re-reading I didn't mean to come across as a dick, sometimes it seems lost with text.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Re-reading I didn't mean to come across as a dick, sometimes it seems lost with text.

Not at all, in fact, you helped make my decision that much easier. That being said, Whiteline is exactly the LCA's I'm interested in for my next upgrade

 

[MrBhp]

A little late to the conversation, but.... My Shelby GT has the FRPP suspension as part of the Las Vegas installed conversion. The dampers are way too stiff. I've installed rear BMR control arms. The biggest improvement was qa1 adjustable shocks and struts. Car hooks really well now. You petty much need to be a pro level driver to keep it out of the ditch, however. No push whatsoever, but massive oversteer. Personally I think your best bet is to cherry pick individual pieces. I don't think any one company makes the best of everything across the board.