Hard to shift into gears - Clutch going out?

[1950StangJump$]

Okay, if it is better after bleeding, its definitely hydraulic and not clutch assembly. So, we know it is the master, the clutch fluid lines, or the TOB.

Perhaps you go with the easiest first . . . replace the master. If no joy, then do the clutch line at the same time you put a new TOB in. Between those three, you would think you'd find the fix.

 

[Balthazor72]

Agreed as I just replaced the TOB. I still have the stock clutch line, which from what I read is problematic.

 

[Balthazor72]

This lasted 10 months before it developed a leak and the bellows blew.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Well, that sucks. Funny how the $45 part on these clutch systems seems to be the most problematic. Would be no big deal if it could be replaced without pulling the tranny off.

 

[Balthazor72]

Right?! I was mumbling the exact thing all while doing this job.

 

[06monera96]

Ouch, Yea my mechanic refuse to do clutch jobs with aftermarket slaves.. they don't last long.
And if they insist 0 guarantees on the job.
100k on my OEM slave and it might have started to fail, I see guys with Excede stuff failing at 8-10k

 

[1950StangJump$]

Problem is, you don't "KNOW" that the slave marketed as "Ford" is any different than the slaves marketed with another name. Nowadays, the same plant will kick out parts for different distributors that market the with their own brand. Hit or miss.

 

[Balthazor72]

This was Exedy, but it doesn't look any different than the OEM I pulled out when I changed my clutch.

 

[06monera96]

well, I've yet to see OEM fail super early vs all the aftermarket stuff.

 

[Balthazor72]

I'm preparing my drivetrain for supercharger add on. I was looking into the edelbrock e-force. I'm looking for 500-650 hp on my 3V 4.6. I believe that is a little over the OEM limit, yes? If not, I would prefer OEM.

 

[06monera96]

I'm preparing my drivetrain for supercharger add on. I was looking into the edelbrock e-force. I'm looking for 500-650 hp on my 3V 4.6. I believe that is a little over the OEM limit, yes? If not, I would prefer OEM.

550hp and 450tq is kinda of the limits.
If you want to be on that power... better to go centri
PD blower is much harder on the motor at those powers.

 

[1950StangJump$]

450 at the wheels is the generally accepted "safe" max HP for these motors unless built.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The stock '05-'10 TR3650 manual tranny is rated at a maximum 390lbft flywheel torque so any forced induction set-up is going to take you beyond that, whereas the TR6060 from the GT500 is rated at 600lbft.

 

[06monera96]

making 438tq @ the wheels.
so far 3 years been beating on it
clutch has about 100k
Master clutch never replaced

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Good luck.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Yea, while putting a better clutch on the TR3650 when you supercharge seems to be a standard practice, I haven't read where folks are losing the TR3650s in mass because of a supercharger. I get that we are likely exceeding the recommended rating, but it seems as though they generally hold up.

That said, if mine goes out, I would love an excuse to get a T-56 Magnum, and I have in the back of my mind that this may be something I do down the road. Any reason why anyone would want a 6060 instead?

 

[Balthazor72]

So I replaced my clutch again...went stock. I checked my clutch lines, but even after I've done what I can, the car won't go into gear while motor running. I can shift through all gears easily with engine off. Ive bled, and bled the lines, but somehow I keep pulling air out. Any ideas where the air might be coming from?

 

[rocky61201]

A brand new throwout bearing can be a PITA sometimes to get all of the air out. I think the longest ever was at least between 5-10 minutes of pumping the clutch pedal. Also, don't forget to uncap the brake reservoir while doing it. It seems to help in the process, for me anyway. Persistence is the key. I've had my 06GT for 10 years and I've replaced clutches, throwout bearings, and transmissions at least a half dozen times. Keeping pumping the pedal with the cap off, you will get it eventually.

Even if your clutch and flywheel and synchro's are very old and worn out you should be able to get it in 1st gear at idle with a loud grind on the gears if all the air is bled out. If everything is brand new then keep pumping the clutch pedal, you should get it bled eventually.

 

[Anti]

A brand new throwout bearing can be a PITA sometimes to get all of the air out. I think the longest ever was at least between 5-10 minutes of pumping the clutch pedal. Also, don't forget to uncap the brake reservoir while doing it. It seems to help in the process, for me anyway. Persistence is the key. I've had my 06GT for 10 years and I've replaced clutches, throwout bearings, and transmissions at least a half dozen times. Keeping pumping the pedal with the cap off, you will get it eventually.

Even if your clutch and flywheel and synchro's are very old and worn out you should be able to get it in 1st gear at idle with a loud grind on the gears if all the air is bled out. If everything is brand new then keep pumping the clutch pedal, you should get it bled eventually.

This. I don't know about you all but I was also instructed to count a few seconds while pushing the clutch pedal down and count a few more while releasing it. I noticed a great difference after do8ng that for about 15 minutes. Just watch some youtube while doing it.

 

[Balthazor72]

A brand new throwout bearing can be a PITA sometimes to get all of the air out. I think the longest ever was at least between 5-10 minutes of pumping the clutch pedal. Also, don't forget to uncap the brake reservoir while doing it. It seems to help in the process, for me anyway. Persistence is the key. I've had my 06GT for 10 years and I've replaced clutches, throwout bearings, and transmissions at least a half dozen times. Keeping pumping the pedal with the cap off, you will get it eventually.

Even if your clutch and flywheel and synchro's are very old and worn out you should be able to get it in 1st gear at idle with a loud grind on the gears if all the air is bled out. If everything is brand new then keep pumping the clutch pedal, you should get it bled eventually.

While we are on the subject of transmissions and clutch replacements, any advice on an easier way to drop and raise the tranny? Ford shop manual to pull it away until the input shaft just barely clear the clutch fingers and will come straight down. What are they smoking? I'm having issues because of the starter housing. Is the 3650 supposed to be rotated to accomplish this? It doesn't say so for this tranny. It does say this for the T5OD, though. Any thoughts?