Higher rpm range

Silversky545

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From what I understand the 05-09 GT has a 6200 rpm rev limit but we start to loose power depending on the gear we are in around 55-5800 rpms (stock) but by having full bolt ons does that make the motor make more power up into the 6000 rpm range? Sorry for my ignorance?


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fdjizm

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Yes bolt-ons can push the power range up in higher RPMS, with my C&L racer intake my peak HP is flat from 5800 to 6200 or so then starts to drop slowly but I shift at 6500 rpms to get back in the torque range on the next shift.

Cams do the same thing for power, push it up higher and more overall.
 

JeremyH

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Yes it will/can make power up there with bolt-ons, power doesn't fall off at 55-5800 like a 2v.

I held peak power till around 6500-6600 rpms with bolt-ons and a 93 octane mail order tune, this was with stock heads/cams and stock intake manifold.

Mods at the time were demolet tuneable inductions cai, bbk tb, cmcdp, udp, kooks longtubes and hi-flow catted xpipe and some bullet mufflers.
dyno_sheet.jpg
 
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Davenow

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One of the reasons most modern cars lose power at high RPM is that most manufacturers have the ecu set up to slowly partially close the throttle plate as you get within like 1500rpm of the rev limiter.

I am not sure if Ford has the stock ECU set up to do this, but if so, a tune fixes it. I have yet to see an aftermarket tuner not eliminate that feature. I would bet it does it in stock form though. Its pretty common.

Also, breathing becomes an issue, so even if you have the throttle plate stay all the way open till you hit the rev limiter (which most aftermarket tuners set to 6800 from what I have seen) you still taper down a bit, so you want to do whatever you can to ensure air gets into and out of the motor as fast and as easily. HIGH rpm is where something like the FRPP intake manifold comes into play. On lesser modded cars it may not make much in the way of peak gains, but its runners are several inches shorter than the stock manifold (something like 5 inches shorter) and it has more plenum volume, both of which help shift power a little higher up in the RPM band. LT headers are obviously also recommended for higher rpm power, as are cams. Even a mild cam optimized for lower range power will still help out up top.

I know my car pulls all the way out to redline with no real tapering of power till it hits the limiter at 6800.

JLT CAI (V2)
GT500tb
FRPP intake manifold
FRPP hot rod cams
JBA lt headers


(A few other mods but those are the breathing mods)

I definitely have the strongest power from about 4500-5700 or so, but it still pulls hard all the way out.
 
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Silversky545

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I also don't care to take the car that high in rpm range due to the car being my daily for now... I'd love to have the car excel to 8k rpms... What compression ratio and what type of bottom end do I need to accomplish this let's say for a n/a build.... But I maybe picking up a intercooled procharger conplete kit for right around a grand... So at that point I will most likely b satisfied


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2kanchoo

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I also don't care to take the car that high in rpm range due to the car being my daily for now... I'd love to have the car excel to 8k rpms... What compression ratio and what type of bottom end do I need to accomplish this let's say for a n/a build.... But I maybe picking up a intercooled procharger conplete kit for right around a grand... So at that point I will most likely b satisfied


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That's one hell of a tall task if you want the car to be going up to 8000 rpm, atleast to have it go up to 8k and be making power still. You'd be better off money and time wise to just go with the procharger. Any full bolt on 05-09 I've seen climbs in power too atleast 6200 and then it usually hold flat. Personally I put my rev limiter at 7k just to give myself room and I usually shift 6500.
 

Riptide

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1000 for a complete intercooled procharger kit? Sounds like a steal.
 

05mustang_TT_charged

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I also don't care to take the car that high in rpm range due to the car being my daily for now... I'd love to have the car excel to 8k rpms... What compression ratio and what type of bottom end do I need to accomplish this let's say for a n/a build.... But I maybe picking up a intercooled procharger conplete kit for right around a grand... So at that point I will most likely b satisfied


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Stock computer will only let the car rev to 7700 rpm as that is where the hard code it set. It would take A LOT of money to make this happen as the valve train would need to be bullet proof. It can be done but would be around $20k for the motor and another $5k for stand alone computer.
 

Silversky545

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Ive owned several stangs but I'm new to truly understanding them... So just for sake of argument a 4.6 3v can't be stroked to a 5.0 and built up to handle this??? I was looking at some sites that sell bottom ends for $1500 up to $6000 and higher ... It's been awhile but I thought the stroked 5.0 could do it... I suck at trying to b a gear head lol


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Davenow

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Interstingly enough, last night I was reading an in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords article last night claiming the stock 3V is safe to 7500...


I dont know how much I would trust that, but I sure feel a hell of a lot more comfortable taking it out to the 6800rpm rev limit that I have right now.
 

Chris B.

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I've used this to illustrate the power curves and power gains in the past with a couple bolt ons.

Blue line is stock.
Red line is with a Steeda CAI and Steeda 91 octane tune.
Green line is with Kooks custom headers with H pipe and high flow cats and Steeda CAI and Steeda 91 octane tune.

2008%20Mustang%20Dyno-1024.jpg


The power level seems to peak and stay level probably due to the stock cams and intake manifold design. My fastest 1/4 mile times were shifting at 6500 RPM instead of 6200 RPM. Even stock, you will get the fastest acceleration shifting it above 6000 RPM.
 

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