howards rattler cams 4.6 3v ?

GoTomGo

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have found almost zero info on these cams and modern muscle seems to be one of the few suppliers of these nsr cams .. almost zero reviews but have found few sound clips at idle etc .. any input reviews etc? if some one would like to chime in. thank you
 

stkjock

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15 years in the 3V world, never heard to this brand, why reinvent the wheel, use a proven cam, L&M, Lunati, FRPP....
 

RED09GT

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Howards cams have been around a long time. They have a good reputation and are more of a specialty manufacturer that caters to racers or more classical hot rodders

The rattler series cams will be similar to Comp's Thumpr, Ford Hotrod's Brenspeed Detriot rockers, etc...
Sound Great, moderate performance gains.

I'm just glad that there are manufacturers still making new and different parts for this platform. I don't see anything wrong with that, especially with a well-respected company in the automotive community.
 

07 Boss

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What kind of info are you looking for exactly? I mean the cam can only be so aggressive as an nsr cam so I would just find a cam with comparable specs and look at the reviews on those. I find a lot of these nsr cams run more valve overlap or too small of an lsa for optimum power to make them sound more aggressive than they really are. Personally, I like the comp nsr cams as they had the smoothest idle.
 

GoTomGo

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just reviews from ppl that have used them.etc... my first 3v cam swap looks easy enough.way easier then old pushrod 5.0
 

GoTomGo

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at the end of the day it's an auto vert..so she's heavy etc.. would love to get it in low 13s high12s (dreaming)just started putting it together. I'm am auto tech by trade I have shop and 20+ years experience. this is my first modular build though. so far I Benn collecting parts and am waiting for a few to come in mail. I have 4:10s axle back exhaust jlt cold air .bama tuner rev X I have 2013 boss wheels n tires with nitto drag radials out back so traction shouldn't be an issue with the 4:10s and I ordered the howards cams..I would love to put a higher stall converter in it. but don't feelike taking trans out to swap converters yet
 

GERMANSHEPERD

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back in 2008 my 08 GT went 12.70’s with 4.1’s, DR’s, full exhaust, dyno tune, UDP, CAI, 170* stat, and 3000 stall converter. YMMV.
 

GoTomGo

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whered ya get the 3k stall? or is that the one that tci offers? which is also the only one i could find available. also what was your 60ft?
 

stkjock

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want to go fast.... best thing to do is slap a supercharger on the car, been proven on this site over and over, it's the best bang for the buck HP upgrade one can do.
 

GoTomGo

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agreed 100 percent..don't have the bread to shell out for that at moment . thought about oil less conp turbo mid or rear mount .. still gets expensive though.
 

GoTomGo

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well thank you for those with constructive criticism and sane advice . And to the rest of the trolls remind me why I don't do internet forums any more
 

07 Boss

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I didn't see any suspension mods in your parts list. One of the best ways to improve our 60" times is to reconstruct the suspension and change the geometry around a bit. I always build from the ground up, seems to be the most successful and efficient way to build a car. Anyways, I would hold off on the cam until you have a more complete build. You will want to use the camshaft to tune for your particular set up and what you want to get out of it. The cam profile should be determined by your set up. If you want to stay NA and not change your convertor it may limit the cam profile to a more mild set up. If you go with a convertor you will want a more aggressive cam profile. If you're planning a blower somewhere down the line I would definitely hold off on the cam because you're going to want a different grind for an FI set up. The type of cam to get should be your final tuning element to bring everything together and build the type of power curve you are looking for.
 

Greg Hazlett

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well thank you for those with constructive criticism and sane advice . And to the rest of the trolls remind me why I don't do internet forums any more
Before you go calling people names (trolls) there were a lot of educated/seasoned 3v people giving you advice....if you don't want to be open to advice don't ask for it; look at how long the people you are calling trolls have been on the forum and how many posts they have; most of them have forgotten more about about the 3v than you will ever know.
 

GoTomGo

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"great another 3v sound cam" very constructive and informal..... all I asked n for was anybody use them . in not expecting big gains etc from them. biggest can that will work with a stock stall. the 4:10s should help . I have a bamma tune now for when I put the car back together and plan on data logging it and having lito tune it. "put a supercharger on it" also irellevant to my question. trust me I know boosted is the way to go. I just sold my vortech v1 and some other foxbody parts to help fund this project . I appreciate everybody's insite etc.. as far as suspension goes yes I'm going to . will probably delete front sway bar go with 90/10 or 70/30 front struts and maybe some good rear control arms.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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at the end of the day it's an auto vert..so she's heavy etc.. would love to get it in low 13s high12s (dreaming)just started putting it together. I'm am auto tech by trade I have shop and 20+ years experience. this is my first modular build though. so far I Benn collecting parts and am waiting for a few to come in mail. I have 4:10s axle back exhaust jlt cold air .bama tuner rev X I have 2013 boss wheels n tires with nitto drag radials out back so traction shouldn't be an issue with the 4:10s and I ordered the howards cams..I would love to put a higher stall converter in it. but don't feelike taking trans out to swap converters yet

The problem with swapping in performance cams while retaining the stock converter is that you'll lose torque at the rpm where the converter stalls, resulting in a slower launch.
If I was in your shoes, I'd upgrade the torque converter first. If you're set on swapping cams later on, I'd suggest something like a 3500rpm stall. It'll at least get you on the flatter part of the torque curve before it peaks, and the difference compared to the stock converter will be night and day.
 
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