Improving comfort and ride quality

Redoubt

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I'm trying to make my Mustang more comfortable on regular roads. Right now the ride is stiff and uncomfortable. It's a 2013 get track pack. It has a number of aftermarket parts. First item for removal is the steeda rear sway bar and end links with poly bushings.

I am looking at the factory gt or boss 302 rear sway bar. Is there going to be a significant stiffness in the 302 over the GT sway bar? I still want it handle as best as possible but comfort is my priority.
 
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stkjock

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Handling and comfort is an oxymoron
 

Redoubt

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I've never ridden in a boss 302, in all the reviews I've watched I have not heard cricticism of poor ride quality.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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I'm trying to make my Mustang more comfortable on regular roads. Right now the ride is stiff and uncomfortable. It's a 2013 get track pack. It has a number of aftermarket parts. First item for removal is the steeda rear sway bar and end links with poly bushings.

I am looking at the factory gt or boss 302 rear sway bar. Is there going to be a significant stiffness in the 302 over the GT sway bar? I still want it handle as best as possible but comfort is my priority.

You can't have it both ways. If handling is your top priority? then expect to sacrifice some ride comfort. If comfort is your top priority? then just keep your suspension stock and forget about upgrading altogether. If by chance you may be interested? I'd be willing to swap my factory GT rear sway bar w/end links for your Steeda rear sway bar and end links with poly bushings.
 

Redoubt

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You can't have it both ways. If handling is your top priority? then expect to sacrifice some ride comfort. If comfort is your top priority? then just keep your suspension stock and forget about upgrading altogether. If by chance you may be interested? I'd be willing to swap my factory GT rear sway bar w/end links for your Steeda rear sway bar and end links with poly bushings.

My problem is I'm live in Hawaii to postage isn't worth it. I'm going to have to eat the $200 postage cost from tasca Ford and just order all the parts in one go. Front sway bar,rear sway bar, uca. I already got new end links.

What had been removed so far:
Whiteline lca adjustable and relocation brackets-these caused stiffness and the loud whine coming from the 3.73 gears. Once that was removed the ride quality and sound was significantly improved. Sold these and installed the track pack lca, I also installed some che lca relocation brackets.

It had the steeda transmission mount bushing, I removed that and it reduced cabin noise and vibration.

I'm just removing one part at a time to see the difference. It has the Bilstein B12 kit and that will be staying.
 

skwerl

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Buy an F150 if you want a comfortable ride. My 2016 Lariat is worlds apart from my 2014 Mustang GT.
 

Juice

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Trade it in for a caddy or lincoln? Sway bars won't do much for ride comfort. Most of that comes from springs and shocks.
 

DieHarder

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Juice is right. Ride comfort is about your springs & shocks... Best mod I made for comfort was replacing FRPP "P" springs for Rousch. The Rousch springs are slightly thinner so I probably lost a little in the handling department compared to the FRPP but it's still decent and now a much better ride because they're more compliant. I'm already running Bilstein shocks so I feel I have the best bang for the buck. If I was going to do any serious track work I'd go back to the FRPP and an adjustable shock setup.
 

Redoubt

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Trade it in for a caddy or lincoln? Sway bars won't do much for ride comfort. Most of that comes from springs and shocks.

The polyurethane bushings on the sway bars and end links have added nvh. The car was fine after the shocks and springs were added.

I just got a deal on OEM front sway bar, rear and upper control arm with very low mileage and all hardware included.

The steeda uca with poly bushings is coming off. Many of the track mustangs use the stock uca or the multimatic version. Rear sway bars are often smaller diameter than stock instead of the larger diameter aftermarket ones.

From memory I had no issues when it was stock years ago other than the soft springs under heavy braking. The issues only came after that when installing all the other parts.

I'm also going to look at going back to 19" or even maybe "18 wheels with a 40 sidewall.
 

Redoubt

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Juice is right. Ride comfort is about your springs & shocks... Best mod I made for comfort was replacing FRPP "P" springs for Rousch. The Rousch springs are slightly thinner so I probably lost a little in the handling department compared to the FRPP but it's still decent and now a much better ride because they're more compliant. I'm already running Bilstein shocks so I feel I have the best bang for the buck. If I was going to do any serious track work I'd go back to the FRPP and an adjustable shock setup.
Are these the b6 hd struts and shocks? Do you have a link for these springs?
 

Redoubt

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Buy an F150 if you want a comfortable ride. My 2016 Lariat is worlds apart from my 2014 Mustang GT.

I like my mustang and have too much money and time invested in it. I have a Subaru outback for regular driving. I like to take the mustang out for spirited driving and don't want to cringe on every expansion joint I see.

I've driven a zl1 with a magnaride and it was sublime. Buying another car isn't an issue, it the depreciation factor, the loss of money in parts etc. I'd rather attempt to fix the problem, one part at a time. If I fail then I'll sell it it.
 

Juice

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Yea, NVH and ride comfort are two different issues.
Removing poly and replacing them with oem rubber helps little with comfort, but it definitely will reduce NVH.
Funny thing is, I replaced my upper rear arm with a QA1 adjustable, with a bearing end on the body side. And I did not notice a significant change as far as NVH. And I was expecting plenty of racket, even thought: will I be taking this thing back off? lol
 

RED09GT

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I think you'd be happier with some sound attenuation. Dynamat (or similar product) the heck out of the trunk and under the back seat.
 

Laga

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You could try adjustable shocks. I just installed a set of Strange adjustable shocks and there is a big difference between soft and hard settings.
 

DieHarder

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Redoubt: Are these the b6 hd struts and shocks? Do you have a link for these springs?

I'm running B6 Bilstein struts/shocks. They're great; no issues there. I'm also running all urethane everywhere I can and NVH is not a problem as long as all joints are well greased and tight. In my experience it's when a urethane (or any) joint is loose that you end up w/NVH. I would try changing out the springs and see if that doesn't make for a better ride.

In my case it was the springs that really made a huge difference. I also did a lot to my car stiffening it up with frame connectors; lower frame braces and whatnot. If you're interested in what I added let me know and I'll forward you a list.

Here's the numbers off of the Roush springs: 1305-R05020047-AA Front & Rears retail for ~$260 - 280. I think I paid $250 a couple of years ago.

IMG_1474.jpg IMG_1471.jpg IMG_1473.jpg
 

Pentalab

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Roush front springs will lower the front end by 1/2". Roush rear springs will lower the rear end by at least 1". Roush springs are 20% stiffer than oem.

Sway bars won't affect NVH.

OP, you mentioned about going back to 19" or 18" diam wheels, with a 40 series sidewall. Are we to assume you currently have 20" wheels on now, with 30 series rubber ? If so, that may well be a BIG part of your issue.... you have minimal sidewall to begin with.

A 285-40-18 on a 10" wide wheel, with correct offset may be just the ticket.
A 285-40-18 will have a 114 mm (4.49") sidewall. I would use the 285's on all 4 x corners. Then you can rotate front to back.
 
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DieHarder

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I've found if you like the larger wheels 19" seems to be the best compromise. I run 245/45 19's and the 45 sidewall does an excellent job of soaking up most road imperfections while still handling well with overall good looks. Works for me anyway. IMG-0330.jpg
 

Redoubt

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Roush front springs will lower the front end by 1/2". Roush rear springs will lower the rear end by at least 1". Roush springs are 20% stiffer than oem.

Sway bars won't affect NVH.

OP, you mentioned about going back to 19" or 18" diam wheels, with a 40 series sidewall. Are we to assume you currently have 20" wheels on now, with 30 series rubber ? If so, that may well be a BIG part of your issue.... you have minimal sidewall to begin with.

A 285-40-18 on a 10" wide wheel, with correct offset may be just the ticket.
A 285-40-18 will have a 114 mm (4.49") sidewall. I would use the 285's on all 4 x corners. Then you can rotate front to back.

Currently I have in the front 20x9 255/35/20 rear 20x10 305/35/20.
 

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