Improving comfort and ride quality

[Norm Peterson]

Never had one apparently freeze up like that.

What you really need to do is thread the big strut shaft nut back on for several threads to keep everything captive if/when the thing finally does decide to disassemble itself (or let you free it up).


Norm

 

[Redoubt]

The strut mounts never popped themselves off so I took them to a shop. I'm about to go pick them up and see how they removed them. The new roush springs are already on the strut.

I forgot to tell them to swap the spring isolated sleeves from the old eibachs to the new roush. Are they needed? The roush instructions say to swap the front ones over.

Same for the rear. I have installed the rear ones and just about have everything on the rear torqued but forgot the isolator sleeves.

Do you think I should test it all down and reinstall the sleeves. The ones on the eibach springs has some kind of adhesive on them, I could pull them off If I try.

 

[Redoubt]

After installing the springs the first impressions are they they seem less stiff and more comfortable over bumps. When I exited my drive way I heard a single metal pop sound from the left. The car drives fine.

A short while later I heard the same sound from the right, once only. It hasn't done it since. As you can see from these pictures the spring could under load. Is it normal all mustangs sit like this when under it's own load on the ground. I am guessing those spring sleeves are to protect against the coils rubbing each other. I'm just concerned if I go through the hassle of removing the struts again that the strut mounts will need to be taken to a shop again to be removed.

 

[Redoubt]

 

[RED09GT]

Try retorquing the sway bar links, you have to get them very tight or they pop every time you hit a bump.

 

[Norm Peterson]

After installing the springs the first impressions are they they seem less stiff and more comfortable over bumps. When I exited my drive way I heard a single metal pop sound from the left. The car drives fine.

A short while later I heard the same sound from the right, once only. It hasn't done it since.

A single pop from each side sounds more like the springs settling in to the car's actual ride height, which is at somewhat greater spring compression than you put into it when you first install them on the struts. I suspect that not having the isolators is the reason you've heard it.

Coil spring diameter varies slightly as the load on the spring is varied, which is going to try to move the end coil radially against its seat. When friction between either end coil and its seat is exceeded, it'll slip and you'd expect to get a pop. Chances are if this is the case, the spring will have settled in at close to its proper equilibrium shape/position at static ride height and you wouldn't expect to hear it again unless the suspension moves by some extreme amount.


Norm

 

[Redoubt]

I did manage to slide the coil springs sleeves in place with jacking up each corner. The car drives much than it did, yes you feel the bumps but it's nowhere near as bad as it was.

The next part I have to install is the steeda watts link, this will be the final suspension part I install. I'm hesitant and installing it if it brings more nvh.

 

[DieHarder]

Looks like you installed the Roush/Bilstein's.... I'm confident you'll like the ride and handling. Firmer than stock but still comfortable and tracks reasonably well for a street car. Best combination IMO for the masses.

Regarding the Watts link. I'd recommend looking into the Cortex unit. It's about the same price as Steeda. There's also the Griggs unit to consider which is actually less than some of the others. If I could afford it I'd like to get the Cortex Watts Link/Torque arm combination but want to build my engine over the winter and have still some house repairs to do in the meantime so always priorities!

Enjoy!

 

[Pentalab]

I have had the whiteline watts link on my 2010 for several years now. No increase in NVH.

 

[GlassTop09]

I'd like to get the Cortex Watts Link

You & me both!

 

[GlassTop09]

I did manage to slide the coil springs sleeves in place with jacking up each corner. The car drives much than it did, yes you feel the bumps but it's nowhere near as bad as it was.

Good deal!

 

[Redoubt]

With regards to an alignment shop setting the front camber. Is -1 detrimental to the ride at all?

Also I installed the watts link but adjusting it to center the axle is trickier than I thought. My concern though is if I take it to somewhere like Firestone, are they even going to be familiar with what a watts link is?

 

[Norm Peterson]

With regards to an alignment shop setting the front camber. Is -1 detrimental to the ride at all?

No.

Also I installed the watts link but adjusting it to center the axle is trickier than I thought. My concern though is if I take it to somewhere like Firestone, are they even going to be familiar with what a watts link is?

I wouldn't count on it. Chances are that any given Firestone/etc. shop won't have seen any more adjustable Watts link setups than you have.


Norm

 

[Midlife Crises]

I have been running a Fays 2 watts link on my 2010 GT sense 2011 and I like it a lot. If you take your car to a shop for alignment you have to make sure they leave the link arms alone. Many don’t understand how it works and can’t resist fixing it for you.

 

[Redoubt]

So I am struggling to adjust the rear axle to center it, as I rotate the link arms to push the axle to the driver's side the pivot begins to rotate. According to the instructions it's supposed to remain vertical. I drove it on short trip to see how it feels.

On bumps there is a loud thud. Got home had a quick look and there is some metal on metal contact. I'll take pics on the daylight, I'm pretty sure it has to be set while on the ground and not loaded on the jack.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Do not use the watts link to pull or push the rear end to center and yes the suspension has to be loaded and at ride hight to install and adjust the watts link. A drive on lift is easiest but jack stands under the axle tubes will work also. I use a ratchet strap to lightly pull the axle to center and hold it in place. Both arms must be the exact same length. Mount them to the pivot and loosely mount the brackets to the arms and axle tubes. Slide and twist the brackets on the axle tubes until you get the arms parallel (use a level) and the pivot in the position you want then tighten the bracket and other fasteners. Remove the ratchet strap and the watts link will keep the axle where you put it as the suspension moves up and down.