Need More Power

AZ MSCL

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You can get the 400hp Whipple kit through Ford Racing and still keep a warranty or get the 500hp kit but it comes with no warranty. Thats the kits i was looking at.

Yup, been looking real hard at those. Wife says she wants to keep her car so I guess that rules out trading for the 2011. It's loaded and is very nice. She seems to be most interested in the supercharger route, which means I'll have to put one in my Challenger then.
 

alloy6ix

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Yup, been looking real hard at those. Wife says she wants to keep her car so I guess that rules out trading for the 2011. It's loaded and is very nice. She seems to be most interested in the supercharger route, which means I'll have to put one in my Challenger then.

You may have to put two to keep up... LOL. :kidding: I've always been a fan of the supershaker. I know JDM offers a good package deal on them and I've seen their red 2010 car run high 10s with that kit, some suspension peices, bigs and littles and a custom tune. I guess in the end it's what she wants, but you are going to spend a bit more than you expect. Regardless of how you figure things. Ask anyone here how much they planned to spend and how much they did spend. The numbers are pretty skewed. haha.
 

Rasmus

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Fordced induction. The modular motor architecture really does well FI. Just.. don't go over 450rwhp. Just don't.
 

LAK3RS

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Hey, thanks for that tip! Keyboard you say... Very helpful.

No problem! In all seriousness though, don't bother with N/A. Just go ahead and put on a used Saleen at a great price or something. As you can tell from the various posts, do it right the first time around.
 

Tom

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I vot for s/c But there is good power to be had with option 2 as well.
 

AZ MSCL

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Again, thanks, keep it coming. One more issue: We bought a bumper to bumper warranty for six years I think. While I want to make mods I also don't want to have warranty issues, hence, my inclination to go with Ford parts and labor. I am aware of the Magnusson-Moss Act and have concerns with the potential issues for engine problems after adding a S/C. While the conclusion of what I'm driving at is pretty obvious (using Ford parts/labor), I'm wondering if I'm missing something.

Also, this was posted on another forum and I thought it was pretty informative so here it is:

Some of this has already been said, but I thought I’d chime in with a little more input for bolt-ons sense your new to the s197 world ( 4.6L 3V ) Keep in mind I’m not some car mechanic that has graduated and has certificates in any of these fields… I’m 20 years old and passing on information that I’ve learned and/or heard from the past 3 years of owning my car. And trust me… I’m on the forums A-LOT.

Headers: If you are staying NA these a good mod, but aren’t the best bang for the buck. They’re pretty pricey and are a PITA for install. Average gains are from 15-25hp at the crank from the various brands. If you are going to supercharged your car these aren’t a good buy UNLESS you are going with a forged short block. Out of the box most superchargers will put out enough horsepower to bring the block to its limits, with or without headers.

Mufflers & Midpipe: the gains with these two are so small it, Power shouldn’t be on the buyers priority list at all, The stock exhaust is good for more than the stock block can handle. That being said, you can buy them for sound, and turn that 4.6L 3v into a bad sounding beast.

Gears: At 400-500$ Installed, this has got to be one of my favorite mods i have done personally. Gears should only be installed if you already know the goals of your stang. Picking the right gear for the Supercharger, Turbo, Nos, or even staying NA can make all the difference in your 1/4 mile time, and keeping that power to the ground. For example, I have 4.10's in my car, and I’m planning on going with a twinscrew for instant toque. I will be spinning tires a little too much because of my gears being so tall and my car will have 400rwtq right off the line. 3.73's seem to be the favorite for FI applications and for NA 4.10 or 4.30's but make sure you go with FRPP gears, they don’t have as many horror stories about gear whine.

CAI+Tune: CAI+Tune have been voted by S197 owners as best bang for the buck in almost every forum dedicated to them. That being said, your car comes with a decent one already from the factory but can still get a lot of improvement from the tune. Bamachips, Brenspeed, VMP tuning, there all good, if you can afford it, a dyno tune would be even better, but Mail orders are good for the price. Something to consider, you will need to retune your car again and again and again, if you keep doing mods one at a time, So I try to do everything together, as much as possible.

UDP & CMDP: "Underdrive Pulleys & Charge Motion Delete Plates" can be good for 10-20 hp at the crank. Usually not really worth it... but again if you’re staying NA, every little bit helps.

LCA + UCA: Lower Control Arms and Upper Control Arms, are a great investment to keep the back end of the car planted, and actually use the power, instead of having wheel hop or spinning tires as much. These both can be had and installed for around 400 dollars and should be done to the suspension at a bare minimum.

Handling: To further go into our suspension, if handling is something your interested in, a great way to improve that is a box set of parts, For example, FRPP, Steeda, Saleen, and many others, all make box sets which include Stocks, Struts, Sway bars, Strut tower brace, and springs. These parts are all made to work together are going to yield a better result most of the time then buying single pieces from different brands.

For someone on a budget, new Shocks & Struts & Swaybars, are best bang for the buck in handling. Everyone thinks if you lower the car on the stock shocks and struts, the car will magically handle better because it’s slammed to the ground... (While I was a believer in this too when I first bought the car) that’s not the case at all. Shocks and Struts are the weak part in our cars, after the LCA & UCA.
 

alloy6ix

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That's very informative, but you know what else? It tells us practically nothing about what YOU want from the car. Since you got that warranty, and this is your wifes car, you could get a Whipple or Saleen or Roush installed at a certified dealer and don't quote me on this because I don't know if they still do it for all of those blowers or only the whipple now, but they do come with labor and tune included but you can't mess with it ( like pulley, different air filter, new tune, etc) suspension and other shit yeah sure, do whatever you want practically, but as far as blower/motor. Once you get it by them and you want to keep your warranty, they pretty much have you by the balls on that one. It won't make as much HP, but it'll still be a good deal faster than stock. Good luck on your search man! :thumb:
 

AZ MSCL

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That's very informative, but you know what else? It tells us practically nothing about what YOU want from the car. Since you got that warranty, and this is your wifes car, you could get a Whipple or Saleen or Roush installed at a certified dealer and don't quote me on this because I don't know if they still do it for all of those blowers or only the whipple now, but they do come with labor and tune included but you can't mess with it ( like pulley, different air filter, new tune, etc) suspension and other shit yeah sure, do whatever you want practically, but as far as blower/motor. Once you get it by them and you want to keep your warranty, they pretty much have you by the balls on that one. It won't make as much HP, but it'll still be a good deal faster than stock. Good luck on your search man! :thumb:

You are right, basically want to add power to a DD. I didn't buy a warranty on my Challenger (comes with 3 yrs) so I've got two more to go then mod wild. The dealer put on a CAI and Corsa catbacks (I added a tune with my Predator), can't really do much more performance stuff until the warranty is over or I can take my chances and hope nothing goes wrong that can be attributed to a mod, such as blowing the engine after adding a S/C. Looking to add a S/C and headers at a minimum, probably some WIDE tires too as it smokes them easily right now. Anyway, Ford seems to be more accommodating when it comes to mods.
 

3vs197

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i bet i got 100 crank hp for 2g's. hp tuners was free because i sold the other tunes to my friends and made up the $600. i did all labor myself.

cams-650
cai -250
udp -200
cmdp-150
off road mid- 170
gears -150

whats that? $1570. i bet im damn near 340wheel if not there and that equates to about 400 crank hp. no to get further from that NA would cost big bucks with diminishing return.

i have $400 LT's as well but those didnt do a god damn thing cause i already have an off road mid so im not counting that.
 

jroc07gt

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once you start with the modding you will that things do a lot more than the power they reflect. look at the guy with the 2010 near me that just ran 12.5@110. he only has the basics and thats not even including gears or headers.
 

3vs197

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headers dont really do much themselves anyways. all in the cats. and that 10' prolly has 3.73's so the gears are fine.
 

AZ MSCL

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i bet i got 100 crank hp for 2g's. hp tuners was free because i sold the other tunes to my friends and made up the $600. i did all labor myself.

cams-650
cai -250
udp -200
cmdp-150
off road mid- 170
gears -150

whats that? $1570. i bet im damn near 340wheel if not there and that equates to about 400 crank hp. no to get further from that NA would cost big bucks with diminishing return.

i have $400 LT's as well but those didnt do a god damn thing cause i already have an off road mid so im not counting that.

Have you dyno'd your car? What is it that is giving you your power increases/how much with each? Thanks.
 

AZ MSCL

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once you start with the modding you will that things do a lot more than the power they reflect. look at the guy with the 2010 near me that just ran 12.5@110. he only has the basics and thats not even including gears or headers.

Basics? What are the basics? A 12.5 @ 110 is pretty damn good for a "basic" car.
 

Riptide

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Regarding the headers I've read a lot of conflicting information. I've read documentation from Kenne Bell stating that aftermarket headers are a waste for their blower and that it does just fine with the stock exhaust. Also read in various places that gains in an NA car are practically nill and are in no way worth the kind of money Kooks and ARH want to charge you for their products. Conversely I've been told that others have seen significant gains (ala 20+ whp) from just a simple header install.

@ times it seems difficult to know who to trust.
 

Riptide

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Guess we'll see once we do the install and get the car on the dyno K&K. :)
I'll let you tune it after the headers go on. I've already made the decision to buy the things regardless.
 

WarFords

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Don't get me wrong headers would probably be the last thing I would upgrade. They are expensive and labor intensive! But if you have upgraded everything else than I would do it.
 
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