Oil Pan/Plug stripped - Dyno tomorrow :-(

[bolivianpimp]

After a month of trying to schedule a retune (tomorrow), I decided to change out the oil to get a fresh set for the dyno tune. At the same time, I was going to install a drain valve so that I never have to remove/reinstall the drain plug.

Anyways, when I was backing the bolt out, I noticed a VERY slight resistance so I stopped and threaded the bolt back in. On the way back out and after ~ 1-2 full turns, the bolt just kept free spinning. It was enough so only drops are coming out of the bolt, and it only drips if I am spinning it. So I know that its either the bolt that stripped (hopefully) or the pan. I tried to push the plug as I re-tighten, but it wouldn’t catch. It was late at night and I was so angry since I’ve been having so many issues with the car lately, so I decided to call it a night and I will work on it again tonight.

After doing a lot of research, I found people were using Vice-grips to lock into the bolt, pull, and at the same time try to catch the threads to come out. I am trying to get the bolt out without screwing up the threads in the pan. Since I will be using the drain valve going forward , I am just concerned with getting it to seal nice and tight one more time. If the threads on the pan are slightly messed up, do you think a helli coil would work good enough to seal the valve into place ? Has this happened to anyone before? What would you recommend to help pull the bolt and also to re-thread? Thanks for the input guys.

 

[chutoyy]

You can try wedging a screwdriver or a pry tool between the bolt and the pan, then gently, but firmly pry the bolt outwards as you're trying to unscrew it.

Might work.

 

[b00stedgt]

Most likely the threads on the pan are stripped. Unfortunately the only true fix is going to be to replace the pan which requires dropping the k member. Think of the catastrophic failure you can have of you lose the bolt on the dyno.

 

[weather man]

See if your local auto parts store has a time sert plug repair kit or equivelent.

 

[Fullboogie]

Per my comment on SVT - have a bung/nut welded to the pan so you can install a new drain plug. It worked on my old Fox Mustang.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Here is my recommendation, do what chutoyy said. Ive never seen an oil pan strip, but ive seen hundreds of ford drain plugs get overtightened and cause the issue your having. The plugs are a soft metal and are not meant to be tightened using the goodentight method. Thats why they have a 10 ft lb torque rating. Once the plug is out pour some oil through the engine and let it all drain out, that way if there is any metal from the plug in the pan it drains out.

 

[Fullboogie]

^^^Definitely do that first. But if you reach the point that all hope is lost, I'd suggest my method. It beats dropping the pan!

 

[bolivianpimp]

You can try wedging a screwdriver or a pry tool between the bolt and the pan, then gently, but firmly pry the bolt outwards as you're trying to unscrew it.

Might work.

Ok i will definitely give this a try. I will use the vice grips to hold the head of the bolt tight, and then pry the bolt out on both ends so that there is even force and i dont strip it more.

Most likely the threads on the pan are stripped. Unfortunately the only true fix is going to be to replace the pan which requires dropping the k member. Think of the catastrophic failure you can have of you lose the bolt on the dyno.

I looked up how expensive and labor intensive it is to swap pans, I REALLY hope the pan is not stripped. I am tired of dumping $$ into this car! I should have kept my GT.... BTW This is on my 08 GT500 i bought 6 months ago.

See if your local auto parts store has a time sert plug repair kit or equivelent.

Would this be similar to a tap & Die set ? My friend is bringing one over tonight

Per my comment on SVT - have a bung/nut welded to the pan so you can install a new drain plug. It worked on my old Fox Mustang.

Replied on SVT

Here is my recommendation, do what chutoyy said. Ive never seen an oil pan strip, but ive seen hundreds of ford drain plugs get overtightened and cause the issue your having. The plugs are a soft metal and are not meant to be tightened using the goodentight method. Thats why they have a 10 ft lb torque rating. Once the plug is out pour some oil through the engine and let it all drain out, that way if there is any metal from the plug in the pan it drains out.

Thats great to hear, i really hope the pan is ok and the bolt is stripped, then it will be easy to install the drain valve without issues. They real tough part now is going to be trying to remove the bolt without stripping additional threads (possibly on the pan).I am going to try ChuToy's method and not give it too much force on the pullout to try and prevent stripping.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

 

[05stroker]

Did you get it out?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Updates????

 

[weather man]

Hellooooooo?????? Just leave us hanging!

 

[bolivianpimp]

Sorry for the delay guys! I tried the prying/pulling method with a couple of friends, we could not get it out all the way without some serious crossthreading. Then, my older friend Steve came over (55 , I am 25) to save the day. He got the bolt out in less than 5 minutes!!!!! He said his 40 years of working on cars gave him all the experience to be able to "feel" the bolt lol, sounds like the force is strong with him! The bolt was 2/3 completely smooth on the bolt threads, but the pan was intact!!! I ended up missing the dyno appointment, but i am just happy the pan is not stripped and the new drain valve is on. With the new drain valve , i wont ever have to worry about pulling that plug out again. Thanks everyone for the advice and help!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Are those drain valves reliable? I love the idea...but worry about them leaking.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Very reliable. Most every construction machine has a quick drain oil drain valve on the engine. Fram makes one identical to the ones used on Volvo construction equipment.

 

[bolivianpimp]

No leaks yet, i made sure to wrap the valve with some teflon tape to ensure the seal was good. Its going to save quite a bit of time going forward, and save a lot of mess.

 

[GreenTerror]

Do you have a parts number or link to the valve you used? Take any pictures of it?

 

[ummduh]

Just a heads up, normal Teflon tape is NOT petroleum safe. It will break down over time.

You can sometimes find petroleum safe tape, it is usually on an orange/red roll. But you're much better off not using it at all on something like a drain plug.

Teflon tape is meant to help seal a pipe thread, which is tapered. It starts off skinny and gets thicker the more you thread it in. The tape helps to take up any possible voids in the threads that are doing all of the sealing work.

On something like a drain plug, that is a straight thread, and does not do ANY sealing in the threaded area, you pretty much just wasted your time and also used the wrong product, in the wrong manner.

All you ever need to use on a straight thread drainn plug is the proper gasket.

Just FYI.

 

[eddyroxx]

use high temp thread sealant, not teflon tape

 

[bolivianpimp]

Ok thanks for the info guys, i didnt really think about the teflon tape. The valve came with a gasket in place at the base of the plug, do you think that will be enough to seal it properly? Or should i just remove the teflon tape so it doesnt break down and possibly mix into the oil?