opinions 5.0 or 5.3 forged build?

[v6tungsten]

Is it worth it to upgrade to the Boss big bore block? I only looking for 600-700 rwhp. it will have a VMP or DoB supercharger.

Right now I have the Stock 4.6 with a Saleen supercharger.

 

[Jinx]

Gotta buy a forged bottom end anyway, so if you gonna get the big bore block anyway...I think you might as well do a stroker. I had dreams of that when I still had my 4.6 w/Whipple 2.3.

 

[hamish]

I think it would be a sweet build using the Boss block.
You could get sub 600 with a rotating assembly upgrade and use some nitrous to get you where you want if you are racing it.

 

[46Tbird]

Nope.

When you run forced induction, you don't rely on cubic inches to make power. You make power with the right blower and boost curve. Save the stroker money and spend it on parts that will produce power and reliability.

 

[v6tungsten]

Nope.

When you run forced induction, you don't rely on cubic inches to make power. You make power with the right blower and boost curve. Save the stroker money and spend it on parts that will pr
oduce power and reliability.

so would you not even do the 5.0 sroker? I have a spare 2005 4.6 block in the garage now. just need to take to get checked out

 

[eighty6gt]

I was looking into all of this, if you have the money go ahead. The 5.3 especially is a lot of money - the head gaskets are $400 instead of $100. Iron block may or may not make a difference.

Dumping most of my money into house stuff now, paying off my cheap wedding.

 

[KatoS197]

This kind of comes back to the whole "what do you want the end result to be" avenue. Do you just want to make 600-700hp just for the bragging rights? Are you going to be taking the car to the track?

Whichever route you take, make sure you're building your house on rock, not sand.

 

[MassMustang]

How about a 302 stroker Kit on your stock 3v aluminum block?

 

[v6tungsten]

Mostly bragging...cars a 2006 and it's never seen the track. it just my weekend car that I don't drive much.

 

[01yellerCobra]

Nope.

When you run forced induction, you don't rely on cubic inches to make power. You make power with the right blower and boost curve. Save the stroker money and spend it on parts that will produce power and reliability.

But having more cubes still makes it easier to make more power. I made 496rwhp on a Mustang Dyno with a D1 at 12psi. It would've made more but I was out of fuel. And my torque curve looked like a twin screw.

And the head gaskets are around $300. If you paid $400 you went to the wrong place.

 

[702GT]

Nope.

When you run forced induction, you don't rely on cubic inches to make power. You make power with the right blower and boost curve. Save the stroker money and spend it on parts that will produce power and reliability.

No to the stroker, yes to Bore. If you had the BB Boss, use stock length rods and the 3.701" (I think) pistons it calls for, not only will you effectively sit at around 304 CID, but you'll be keeping the engine square and unshroud the valves. BruceH covers the Boss block extensively in the archives, just search threads by him and you'll find plenty of nifty shit.

Unshrouding the valves is a big bonus especially when talking about boost. A 281 bore doesn't leave much room for air to flow into the cylinder. Giving it the extra bore allows much more breathing room. The results are an increase at every rpm. Putting a stroker length rod/crank in it, IMO, isn't worth the extra cost. The cost of a Boss block is an extra $1600 roughly, to the bill. If you're on a tight budget, best to just stick with the 281 and turn up the boost.

 

[blownGTvert]

No to the stroker, yes to Bore. If you had the BB Boss, use stock length rods and the 3.701" (I think) pistons it calls for, not only will you effectively sit at around 304 CID, but you'll be keeping the engine square and unshroud the valves. BruceH covers the Boss block extensively in the archives, just search threads by him and you'll find plenty of nifty shit.

Unshrouding the valves is a big bonus especially when talking about boost. A 281 bore doesn't leave much room for air to flow into the cylinder. Giving it the extra bore allows much more breathing room. The results are an increase at every rpm. Putting a stroker length rod/crank in it, IMO, isn't worth the extra cost. The cost of a Boss block is an extra $1600 roughly, to the bill. If you're on a tight budget, best to just stick with the 281 and turn up the boost.

It's all about volume in the cylinder. Either a longer rod or bigger bore. It's doesn't matter both increase the cylinder volume. 800rwhp-++ can be made without touching the stock 3V heads.

 

[MassMustang]

No to the stroker, yes to Bore. If you had the BB Boss, use stock length rods and the 3.701" (I think) pistons it calls for, not only will you effectively sit at around 304 CID, but you'll be keeping the engine square and unshroud the valves. BruceH covers the Boss block extensively in the archives, just search threads by him and you'll find plenty of nifty shit.

Unshrouding the valves is a big bonus especially when talking about boost. A 281 bore doesn't leave much room for air to flow into the cylinder. Giving it the extra bore allows much more breathing room. The results are an increase at every rpm. Putting a stroker length rod/crank in it, IMO, isn't worth the extra cost. The cost of a Boss block is an extra $1600 roughly, to the bill. If you're on a tight budget, best to just stick with the 281 and turn up the boost.

Aside from forged internals, you don't think a 302 stroker kit adds any power? I thought most showed at least 30hp with the extra 21cid.

 

[2005Redfire6]

Aside from forged internals, you don't think a 302 stroker kit adds any power? I thought most showed at least 30hp with the extra 21cid.

I was always told/under the impression the stroker doesn't really add HP. The amount of cubic inches you add generally equates to that much more torque. For example going from 281 to 298 is good for about 17 more torque. That is how my tuner explained it to me...

 

[MassMustang]

I was always told/under the impression the stroker doesn't really add HP. The amount of cubic inches you add generally equates to that much more torque. For example going from 281 to 298 is good for about 17 more torque. That is how my tuner explained it to me...

That would be fine with me if I was primarily focused on forged internals with the added benefit of bragging rights of "302" or "5-Ohhh!"

I'd love a shaker hood and focusing on a blower first. Once I do a blower and LTs, if I'm thinking cams, I'll probably make it a winter project to rebuild with a 302 stroker kit, VSR cams, and new plugs.

 

[blownGTvert]

I was always told/under the impression the stroker doesn't really add HP. The amount of cubic inches you add generally equates to that much more torque. For example going from 281 to 298 is good for about 17 more torque. That is how my tuner explained it to me...

You gain both, as HP and TQ are directly related. Expect a 30-40 hp gain increasing to 302. Rule of thumb is 2hp per cubic inch.

 

[drive_55_not]

You gain both, as HP and TQ are directly related. Expect a 30-40 hp gain increasing to 302. Rule of thumb is 2hp per cubic inch.

I'll agree a stroker will make a little more power with no added cost over a stoke stroke/bore setup but it wont be ground shattering power.

I made 625rwhp / 565rwtq with my stock stroke/stock bore (20-over) with stock heads, 1-3/4" Borla LT's O/R X and Stingers. That was also on BP-93.

Brenspeed's B326 TVS with similar mods made 660rwhp/620rwtq.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixbeM5-VkLc

I believe that car with more aggressive tuning made 700rwhp and 660rwtq.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLCG-eCNZCE

This may not be a direct comparison, but it's all I got,


/k

 

[2005Redfire6]

You gain both, as HP and TQ are directly related. Expect a 30-40 hp gain increasing to 302. Rule of thumb is 2hp per cubic inch.

30-40 hp gain with boost I am assuming? Cause my car didn't make shit for power with the 298 stroker, the same as an N/A car would with the same mods.

 

[702GT]

30-40 hp gain with boost I am assuming? Cause my car didn't make shit for power with the 298 stroker, the same as an N/A car would with the same mods.

I would expect you should have picked up some torque, as that's usually where torque is made is in the stroke?


Either way, in a boosted application any kind of added displacement (stroke or bore) is going to gain both hp/tq. You want to see real displacement results, increase bore from 3.552 to 3.701, not only do you gain hp/tq, but you get in through the entire powerband. Not just a little blip at the peaks. A 298 stroker build is like trying to dump cash on a fire. You're giving it more room for boost to go but not letting the valves breathe still. Unshroud the valves, big bore. Results.

BruceH's big bore stroker made 435whp/385wtq NA, uncorrected. He did an FI build after that, I can't remember what it made but it was perfectly un-streetable. The only reason he stroked his big bore boss was because he got the internals for $600 (crank & rods). If you asked him, I'm sure he would agree the bore is all he cared about.. oh, and unshrouding the valves. Did I say that already?

304>298

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I'd take your 281 and put a stroker rotating assembly in it, keeping the stock compression ratio. You'll get a '5.0' with a 302 cu.in. (or a little less with a 298 cu. in. kit). Built right, it will hold up to your modest power goals. It's what I'm using, with stock heads; not necessarily the most power-efficient setup, but it works pretty damn good