suspension folks, adjusting Tokico D-specs?

[Error404]

Now that I have my D-specs on the front and rear (and other suspension parts, all of which are not adjustable I believe), I'm a little curious to start adjusting the shocks/struts. Something which I didn't think I would really want to do! I see where to adjust the fronts, and I assume the rears would require removing some of the interior panels.

What exactly does the soft/firm settings do, which from what I read it adjusts both the compression and the rebound at the same time? If I adjust them all the way as firm as they go (or as firm as I can handle them on the roads) is this really the best setup for turns? Or is firmer not always better around turns? Does adjusting softer or firmer change the ride height? or only the stiffness of the ride? Will a firmer setting be more or less prone to sliding?


I guess my main question is this: Is firmer always better for handling around turns? or is it only better to a point? If it's only better to a point, how do you tell when you have reached that point? I don't drive on a track or anything, just on country/mountain roads so I don't really ever push the car as hard as it can go. But I'd like to get the best handling for the driving that I do.

I'm not dissatisfied with the feel of the car in anyway, just getting a little curious about adjusting them


Any tips?

 

[JonW]

I can't tell you how to adjust them since I don't have them, but here's a hint on the settings. What you want for best handling is the best compliance. What that means is how the tires stay planted to the pavement without upsetting the suspension.

If your shocks are set too soft, the wheel will travel upwards too far after hitting a bump, since the softer setting cannot stop the upward motion of the wheel in a timely manner. Great for a cushy ride, not so good for optimum handling. Also, the longer the wheel has to travel upwards before the compression of the shock stops it, the longer it will take it to travel back downwards. In the meantime, during that up and down travel, the tire may not be in full contact with the pavement, and handling will suffer.

At the other end of the spectrum, if the shock is set too hard, the suspension cannot soak up the bump, and the resulting shockwave from the bump is transferred to the suspension and chassis, upsetting the balance of the chassis, and reducing handling ability. In extreme cases, the tire may lose complete contact with the pavement. Think of a skateboard and how it reacts when you hit a bump.

In between those two extremes is where you want to be. You want the suspension to be compliant enough that it absorbs shocks and keeps the tires planted on the pavement, but not so harsh that it upsets the suspension.

Think of a pair of shoes. When they're new (hard shocks), they're too tight, they don't feel good, and your feet don't feel like they're being cushioned from the pavement. When the shoes are halfway thru their life (proper suspension setting), they feel good, they're comfortable, and your feet are getting proper support. When the shoes are worn out (soft shocks), they feel loose and sloppy, and your feet hurt because they are not getting enough support.

Find that happy medium of compliance, and you've found the holy grail of handling.

 

[Error404]

great, thank you Jon!

 

[rog06gt]

+1 on what JonW said.
My setting is 1 turn firmer on the front than the rear, 3 turn out from full hard front and 4 turn out on the back, that compensates for the weight of the blower.
You don't need to remove interior panels, just remove the top nut and use the adjusting tool provided, in the back just moved the carpeting and do the same, always screw in all the way first, then back out for adjustments, maximum 7 turns out.
Have fun.

 

[don_w]

I have to set my right shoe 3 clicks firmer than my left shoe, otherwise my left shoe just spins on take-off.

 

[JonW]

How hard is it to adjust those shocks? Is that something I can do easily, without jacking up the car, in the hotel parking lot before I go to the track? And then set them back for the drive home?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

How hard is it to adjust those shocks? Is that something I can do easily, without jacking up the car, in the hotel parking lot before I go to the track? And then set them back for the drive home?

ABSOLUTELY YES! The D-Specs all adjust from the top, with a tiny little allen wrench, right down the stem of the damper. To adjust, you simply pull the protective cap from the stem on the top of the unit (in the middle of the strut tower up front, and behind the carpet in the rear), drop in the adjustment tool, spin them to full firm, and then back out the desired number of turns. Replace the caps, and you're done. This can be done wearing a suit and tie, if necessary, and you won't even need to wash your hands if you keep your engine bay clean...

 

[Grinder911]

These would make adjusting the rear a lot easier. Something I plan to get when I upgrade my suspension.

These allow you to adjust the rear shocks without removing your inner trunk liner.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=1185

 

[travelers]

great, thank you Jon!

Thats some good info. Did you set it up according to the directions? Thats a good starting point.

 

[pcdrj]

My setup: D Specs, Steeda Sport springs, FRPP sway bars, Billet LCAs, relocation brackets, 285-40, 255-45 BF Goodrich KDW's Gforce TA on 18" bullits.

I tend to keep mine soft for street driving to deal with potholes, bumps, etc. Since the car tends to oversteer you'll want the back softer than the front. I've got the front at -3 turns and the back at -5. Anything less than this and the back comes around too easily. IMO the tires will have the biggest impact on where you want your settings.

 

[rog06gt]

I have to set my right shoe 3 clicks firmer than my left shoe, otherwise my left shoe just spins on take-off.

mmmm...sounds like your limping...both my shoes spins on take-off... j/k
I can't say enough praise about those Tokico, street/strip/autocross...
Let me know how the Steeda relocation bracket turns out...

 

[The Dizzel]

yes this is an excellent post, I have the D-Specs, love em, somdays i like the cushy cadilac ride others i like a firm lose my fillings ride. I am generlly running a little softer in the front that the real, my last setting before racing was 4.5 in fornt and 6 in back. For racing i put them both at 7 let the front end come up and lets the back end drop. Which reminds me, I still have to change them.....duh!!!!

 

[RedFury]

You'll think I'm crazy, but I've been driving around with 1.5 front and 2.5 rear, with the front sway bar adjusted for full stiffness. The car handles very well. If it is uncomfortable, I wouldn't know. Maybe I've grown used to it, but I think I like the feel of a stiff suspension rather than a soft or floaty feeling. I like to feel connected to the road so I can tell whether I'm at the ragged edge or not. I don't carry passengers, so I don't have any feedback from normal people.

For drag racing, I can run 11.9 all day long with 5 front and 4 rear, with drag radials and no front swaybar.

 

[Error404]

These would make adjusting the rear a lot easier. Something I plan to get when I upgrade my suspension.

These allow you to adjust the rear shocks without removing your inner trunk liner.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=1185

I've just ordered a set of these for the rear, thanks!

So, I finally got around to adjusting the front shocks (going to wait for the rear until the extenders guys arrive)

Anyway, so I take off the nut on the top of the front struts, jam the little tool down there and find that both front shocks are about one turn out from being completely firm. That would explain the rough riding over medium sized bumps! Though overall, it's not really a bad ride!

So I go to loosen the shocks, and I'm expecting that the tool will still be under a bit of tension as I loosen it, but after 1/2 or so from completely firm the adjustment is very easy to turn no resistance. What are the chances of this moving on it's after a while? It's quite easy to turn, almost no resistance at all untill you get about 1/2 a turn from completely firm.


Do yall routinely re-adjust the struts every so often? (like say if you knew that you always keep it at 3 turns out, would you firm it all the way up then go 3 turns out every few months or so, to make sure it hasn't moved?)

Sorry it took so long for me to get back to this, I've been busy at work, and purchasing/builiding a few cameras that have taken up most of my free time.