swflastang05's build thread

BeachMonkey100

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based on my past experiences with studs, I usually tighten them with a T handle until the bottom out, then turn them counter clockwise 1 full turn. Just in case when tightening if they decide to move with the nut I have nothing to worry about. Did the same thing with my main studs. It's not going to hurt anything if you do that and I personally recommend it to anyone using studs.
 

swflastang05

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Okay, I'll back mine out a turn also before final assembly, this time. However last night when I was looking at them, I removed the top left stud when looking from the PS, which is the #4 cylinder, upper rear where the dowel goes and that stud was definitely wet when I removed it. I hope that's just from when I removed the head and coolant splashed everywhere rather than an issue with the block.
 

BeachMonkey100

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I'm leading towards the coolant probably seeped down the threads. If not get some coolant and a syringe and fill the hole, mark or remember where it was filled and leave it for a few hours, if it's still there then no problem, if it's gone big problem lol
 

swflastang05

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I stopped by my house and checked it again, and it was dry, must have been from when I pulled the head. Here we go again thinking about all kinds of crazy problems that don't exist, lol!
 

BeachMonkey100

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I stopped by my house and checked it again, and it was dry, must have been from when I pulled the head. Here we go again thinking about all kinds of crazy problems that don't exist, lol!


Well that's a plus!

I know, better safe than sorry I always say. And I agree, half the problems we have might just be in our heads lol
 

swflastang05

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Wait! There is something wrong with my heads!!! Haha

LMFAO!

Well my new FRPP head gasket kit arrived today so I couldn't resist the urge to bolt the head back on and see what happens, so I did, and SUCCESS!!!

I re-torqued the head studs half million times (lol), then reinstalled the cam timing components making 10000% sure everything is correct, primed the motor again just for good measure then cranked it over and was super pleased to see the compression is back where it should be on all PS cylinders! Ahhh, I will sleep well tonight! :beer:
 

05stroker

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Good to hear! My parts will be in tomorrow and I will get the motor built on Sunday since I need to work on Sat.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Awesome to hear!! glad that's all that was wrong, probably a combo of the studs and gasket originally gone wrong. Good news it was an easy fix though!
 

swflastang05

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Okay I got everything back together yesterday, took it for a drive and all seems good. Lito sent me a new tune file and told me to "brace yourself", he wasn't kidding, lol! I think I'm just going to leave it at 13lbs boost for now, I need some time to get used to it!

I do have a concern though regarding a lot of condensation under the oil cap. I know that's normal to an extent while running e85 but I am concerned. I don't really have any good catch can system, maybe its time? All I really have is a breather on the DS valve cover and the PS is vented to a catch can. What's a good system to install to help prevent this? I want to rule out any possible sealing issues, again.

Oil on the dipstick looked a little murky immediately after shutting the motor off, but looks normal after it sat for a half hour.
 

swflastang05

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Never mind, after finding the expansion tank empty and the oil level high on the dipstick, I drained some oil to confirm my fears, and yes, its done, again. IDK what I'm going to do this time, pull both heads or maybe just pull the whole motor again and go through everything. I assume I should drain the e85 and refill with some gas and run through the injectors for a few minutes since it might not be a quick fix this time.
 

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