AutoXRacer
Senior Member
Whats going on? Why does the oil look like that?
Whats going on? Why does the oil look like that?
They have been known to break into the water jacket. Hope that didn't happen.
The studs are not supposed to go into the water jacket. That can happen when and if the stud is cranked down before assembly. When you torque after the stud can rotate even more and crack the block. That crack can penetrate the water jacket. There is a thread on here about that.
Only hand tight the studs as the instructions dictate. The instructions from arp say "on applications where the stud is inserted into an open water jacket use sealant". Something to that affect but not meant for the 3v
I was about to say as well, I didn't think they hit any water jackets, unless like crown said you crack the block/blind hole.
I used an allen socket to thread the studs down until they bottomed out, without applying ANY torque to them at all (I could still turn the studs by hand) is this okay or should they NOT bottom out at all?
Okay, I'll back mine out a turn also before final assembly, this time. However last night when I was looking at them, I removed the top left stud when looking from the PS, which is the #4 cylinder, upper rear where the dowel goes and that stud was definitely wet when I removed it. I hope that's just from when I removed the head and coolant splashed everywhere rather than an issue with the block.
LMFAO!
Well my new FRPP head gasket kit arrived today so I couldn't resist the urge to bolt the head back on and see what happens, so I did, and SUCCESS!!!
I re-torqued the head studs half million times (lol), then reinstalled the cam timing components making 10000% sure everything is correct, primed the motor again just for good measure then cranked it over and was super pleased to see the compression is back where it should be on all PS cylinders! Ahhh, I will sleep well tonight!![]()
There is a lot going on here imo. Bottoming out the studs and then torqueing could cause problems. So could retorqueing after you have gone through the proper sequence. Retorqueing usually increases the clamping force and with a head or other precise surface it's not a good thing.
I'm guessing that you aren't seeing anything obvious like water vapor in the exhaust or seepage around the block?
I hope I'm wrong but I think the block is cracked.
Good luck.
I'm including you in my prayers brother. I hope its not a stud cracking the block and its just a bad head gasket. Still bad, but not as bad as a cracked block.
Still hoping for the best!!





Man I hope you get this situation fixed with as least pain as possible, I might have a lead on a block I will let you know tonight for sure.
I can talk to my mechanic about my old block. He bought it from me for $500 when I put the built engine in my Bullitt but he hasn't touched it in the last year. It was running before I pulled it, stock with 40 something thousand on it. He may or may not want to let it go.
How much? Are you willing to ship it? My zip is 33991, FL.I have a block, just picked it up too. Its bare and was cleaned. I don't think I'll build anytime soon let me know. All I would want is what I paid for it.
Ugh, sorry to see this.