swflastang05's build thread

BruceH

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There is a lot going on here imo. Bottoming out the studs and then torqueing could cause problems. So could retorqueing after you have gone through the proper sequence. Retorqueing usually increases the clamping force and with a head or other precise surface it's not a good thing.

I'm guessing that you aren't seeing anything obvious like water vapor in the exhaust or seepage around the block?

I hope I'm wrong but I think the block is cracked.

Good luck.


They have been known to break into the water jacket. Hope that didn't happen.

The studs are not supposed to go into the water jacket. That can happen when and if the stud is cranked down before assembly. When you torque after the stud can rotate even more and crack the block. That crack can penetrate the water jacket. There is a thread on here about that.

Only hand tight the studs as the instructions dictate. The instructions from arp say "on applications where the stud is inserted into an open water jacket use sealant". Something to that affect but not meant for the 3v

I was about to say as well, I didn't think they hit any water jackets, unless like crown said you crack the block/blind hole.

I used an allen socket to thread the studs down until they bottomed out, without applying ANY torque to them at all (I could still turn the studs by hand) is this okay or should they NOT bottom out at all?

Okay, I'll back mine out a turn also before final assembly, this time. However last night when I was looking at them, I removed the top left stud when looking from the PS, which is the #4 cylinder, upper rear where the dowel goes and that stud was definitely wet when I removed it. I hope that's just from when I removed the head and coolant splashed everywhere rather than an issue with the block.

LMFAO!

Well my new FRPP head gasket kit arrived today so I couldn't resist the urge to bolt the head back on and see what happens, so I did, and SUCCESS!!!

I re-torqued the head studs half million times (lol), then reinstalled the cam timing components making 10000% sure everything is correct, primed the motor again just for good measure then cranked it over and was super pleased to see the compression is back where it should be on all PS cylinders! Ahhh, I will sleep well tonight! :beer:
 

crownaviation

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I am concerned about one of the machine shops that did some work. They were certain sine of my arp studs were bad. Ordered new and could then achieve proper torque. I hope they lubed the studs properly and did not turn them all the way down till bottoming out. I am hoping they did not cram my studs thru the block.. Have a shit ton of money in pep work done to it not to mention would require new rings

I use a thread Chase on every assembly also. You would be surprised how much crap from machining gets down there. Even a wash is not sufficient imo.
 

swflastang05

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There is a lot going on here imo. Bottoming out the studs and then torqueing could cause problems. So could retorqueing after you have gone through the proper sequence. Retorqueing usually increases the clamping force and with a head or other precise surface it's not a good thing.

I'm guessing that you aren't seeing anything obvious like water vapor in the exhaust or seepage around the block?

I hope I'm wrong but I think the block is cracked.

Good luck.

I don't know what to think either, believe me. I filled the one suspect stud hole with coolant and let it sit for a few hours as Beachmonkey suggested a couple days ago and it did not leak down. Maybe the DS head gasket was blown too? Maybe there's a crack in one of the heads somewhere; got to close during my porting work? IDK. I looked closely at the block while it was apart and didn't see any obvious cracks, however to answer your question Bruce, YES there is a lot of water in the exhaust pipes now, there was always some condensation mostly at cold start up but now there was a lot leaking out after a 20 mile drive this morning and parking for an hour (black puddles under the car). I need to decide if I'm going to replace both head gaskets and try again or else just pull the motor and go through the whole thing, IDK at this point, I'm definitely sick of this shit by now though lol!
 

AutoXRacer

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I'm including you in my prayers brother. I hope its not a stud cracking the block and its just a bad head gasket. Still bad, but not as bad as a cracked block.

Still hoping for the best!!
 

swflastang05

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I'm including you in my prayers brother. I hope its not a stud cracking the block and its just a bad head gasket. Still bad, but not as bad as a cracked block.

Still hoping for the best!!

Thanks man, I could use it! Haven't done anything to it yet, I need to get motivated again, trying to remember how it pulls, scares the crap outta me now, lol!

I'm planning to pull the valve covers and do a leak down test on all 8 cylinders, then pressurize the cooling system to see if I can see or hear anything going on, depending how that goes I'll have to see if I pull the motor or just both heads.
 

swflastang05

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Okay I did a leak down test tonight, results as follows:

1 - 9%
2 - 8%
3 - 9%
4 - 8%
5 - 7%
6 - 5%
7 - 14%
8 - 13%

Obviously #7 + #8 seem out of line, what do you think? Could this be where a head gasket failed? I did not pull the valve covers for this test so I didn't see anything strange, also pressurized the coolant system and heard and saw nothing out of the ordinary. Confused...:thud:
 

swflastang05

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I think I'm screwed. I looked under the car today and found several drops of antifreeze on the floor, almost a good size puddle. Looked up and saw trails coming down both sides of the oil pan from above, but below the heads. I pressurized the cooling system then crawled under to inspect and I could see water seeping out both sides of the block! I can't see any cracks from where I was but definitely water leaking out of the side of the block on the DS, the PS was leaking too but it was behind the motor mount so I couldn't see it directly but assume its the same. WTF! How the heck could the block crack on both sides! Here's some pics: Also, I tried to take a cell phone video:

[YOUTUBE]yFjjsr4e9vo[/YOUTUBE]

Link - sorry mods I couldn't get it to embed properly! http://youtu.be/yFjjsr4e9vo






The water is leaking out right above that bolt boss, NOT from inside it. I only can assume the block must be cracked on the inside of that wall.

Anyone have a good 05+ 3v block for sale?
 
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BeachMonkey100

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Man I hope you get this situation fixed with as least pain as possible, I might have a lead on a block I will let you know tonight for sure.
 

skwerl

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I can talk to my mechanic about my old block. He bought it from me for $500 when I put the built engine in my Bullitt but he hasn't touched it in the last year. It was running before I pulled it, stock with 40 something thousand on it. He may or may not want to let it go.
 

loots06

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I have a block, just picked it up too. Its bare and was cleaned. I don't think I'll build anytime soon let me know. All I would want is what I paid for it.
 

swflastang05

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Man I hope you get this situation fixed with as least pain as possible, I might have a lead on a block I will let you know tonight for sure.

Okay thanks, let me know!

I can talk to my mechanic about my old block. He bought it from me for $500 when I put the built engine in my Bullitt but he hasn't touched it in the last year. It was running before I pulled it, stock with 40 something thousand on it. He may or may not want to let it go.

If the one BeachMonkey mentioned doesnt pan out maybe this would be a good option to look into, thanks for the offer.

I have a block, just picked it up too. Its bare and was cleaned. I don't think I'll build anytime soon let me know. All I would want is what I paid for it.
How much? Are you willing to ship it? My zip is 33991, FL.

Ugh, sorry to see this.

Ya, me too!

[FONT=&quot]Of course the bigger question is why did that happen to begin with, I can’t imagine rebuilding the whole motor with a new block just to have it happen again! I remember the block rolled over in the back of my truck when I took a corner while on the way to the machine shop, it was a bare block that weighed nothing, can’t imagine that hurt it.[/FONT]
 

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