swflastang05's build thread

[swflastang05]

I picked up that 3L2E block from Bruce, but I wanted to Thank everyone else for your efforts and willingness to help! That is greatly appreciated!

Now I'm trying to figure out what parts I need to order and what I can reuse, I guess the silver lining to this is my original build is still fairly fresh in my mind so it should be a lot easier than last time. Other than some gaskets, plugs, and seals (and the new block, lol) I guess I'll need a new set of rings and bearings (might reuse the bearings depending how they look when I disassemble, but will need another set of mains for the upper thrust bearing I want to do this time) I have another timing set so I should be okay in that dept., a new Left tensioner since my current one is RTV'd on and I know it wont come off without ruining the seal, and that's all I can think of at the moment.

Here we go again!

 

[05stroker]

I have no need for them and am trying to change my motor parts hording ways.

For some new turbo hording ways...

 

[BruceH]

For some new turbo hording ways...

No. I'm buying flintlocks and pyrodex for the end of the world. And some canned chili for when I get tired of potatoes, rice, squirrel, etc. Ebola is coming! Lol.

 

[swflastang05]

No. I'm buying flintlocks and pyrodex for the end of the world. And some canned chili for when I get tired of potatoes, rice, squirrel, etc. Ebola is coming! Lol.

Wow, my wife is thinking the same thing, between Ebola and Doomsday Peppers episodes on Netflix she's driving me nuts! It'll be amazing if I ever get time to fix my car, lol!

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Shit.. I'm just trying to finish the complete build and enjoy it before anything takes over lol.

But good call on the block, should be able to reuse most of everything, the bearings I would inspect fairly well the rest should be decent. Rings I would replace as well.

 

[swflastang05]

Yea that's what I'm thinking, man that sucks I need to file another set of rings, then break them in again, I hate the stress of that, argh! At least I have a good tune this time around.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Yea that's what I'm thinking, man that sucks I need to file another set of rings, then break them in again, I hate the stress of that, argh! At least I have a good tune this time around.

It's not that stressful lol. Just run it high rpm for a heat cycle, cool it down and then go rip ass with it for a few WOT pulls and it's basically broken in. If it's not by then, then you have problems. The next 20-40 miles just help everything else seat.

 

[crownaviation]

Always scary breaking in a new high hp build...

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Always scary breaking in a new high hp build...

I mean I agree lol, I was nervous to but long as you know what to do it shouldn't be that bad.

 

[go302]

Stainless rings are stressful

 

[swflastang05]

Well my new block is scheduled to arrive on Monday, but in the meantime I managed to pull the old motor and tear it down to the short block. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary inside the crank case as far as cracks, etc. IDK if I'll ever know for sure where it was leaking coolant into the crank case but there was a TON of coolant in there! I also checked some clearances including the rod sides which were right where I set them at .011. However the crank shaft end play increased by .002! It went from .0065 to .0085. WTF, that can't be good. The motor had less then 300 miles on it! I haven't pulled the thrust bearing yet but I suspect I will see some damage there when I do. I suspect my torque convertor, although I already spoke with the manufacturer (Level 10) and they had me send some pics and said it looks okay to them. IDK. What else can cause the end play to increase like that? Or is this normal?








Black stuff in the oil, not sure what that is? Maybe from antifreeze contamination? IDK


I'll probably disassemble the short block this weekend and see how the bearings look. The oil pump looked pretty much like brand new when I opened the cover up, hopefully the rest of the motor is the same.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Where did you get the block from?

Are you going to install the studs differently this time around (to make sure you don't thread them too far)?

Will you be replacing bearings?

Wouldn't the new block require machining and check the tolerances? I'm asking since no two blocks are identical. I didn't build my short-block, so all this is new to me.

 

[swflastang05]

Where did you get the block from?

Are you going to install the studs differently this time around (to make sure you don't thread them too far)?

Will you be replacing bearings?

Wouldn't the new block require machining and check the tolerances? I'm asking since no two blocks are identical. I didn't build my short-block, so all this is new to me.

I bought the new block from Bruce H, he shipped it out to me last Saturday and I should receive it Monday.

I talked to ARP tech re the studs and they confirmed all I need to do is chase all the block threads as best I can then lightly oil the lower stud threads and run them down by hand until they bottom out, or run out of threads in the block, then back them out just a tad so they feel loose. Then torque them down to spec. The only difference will be I will make sure they're all loose in the block before I torque them down, and will not use thread sealer since it's not needed for a 3v.

I'm planning to disassemble the short block this weekend and check the bearings, probably will replace them anyway just for good measure, they're pretty cheap in the big scheme of things, maybe I'll get better ones this time too since my build changed since I ordered my current bearings, which are more street oriented.

And yes, I will need to start from scratch with the new block beginning with the deburring process, opening up and polishing the oil pump passage, etc. then when I done with that I will need to bring it to the machine shop again to bore & hone, align hone the mains, etc. Might have them deck the heads again too just to be sure. Another waiting game... then reassemble checking all the clearances, degree the cams again the whole works!

 

[swflastang05]

I fully disassembled the short block today and found everything to be in great shape with just a couple exceptions, that is one rod bearing had some pitting on it, I assume from the chemical reaction from the antifreeze mixing with the oil which results in an acidic condition. Also the #1 top main bearing was scored a little, maybe due to the blower belt tension? IDK. The interesting thing I confirmed after filling all head bolt/stud holes with water and letting them sit a while I found three that bled down in short order, then after pressurizing them I can easily see where the water entered the crank case internally. That being said I can make a fairly safe assumption the three cracked holes were allowing coolant to leak both internally and externally. At least I have verified where the failures occurred, if for no other reason than some peace of mind. I will have to be much more careful torquing the head studs next time since all the info I have today points towards that's when and where the failure occurred. Valuable and expensive lesson learned!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Sorry to hear that... We have all learned some expensive and close call lessons.

I wish there was a book of dos and don't for these 4.6Ls. lol

 

[swflastang05]

Thanks, I'm just glad I finally know for sure how the coolant was mixing with the oil, gives me a little more peace of mind for my new motor. It will definitely be a very stressful moment when I torque down the studs next time, lol.

 

[05stroker]

I would have the old block magna fluxed to give myself 100% price of mind.

 

[86GT351]

Sucks but you seem to have found the source.

 

[skwerl]

What did you torque the old heads to? ARP had bad torque specs on some of their stuff, at one point calling for 110 or 120 foot lbs which will distort the block. Most reputable builders are using anywhere from 75-90 foot lbs on the 3v head studs.

 

[BruceH]

I would have the old block magna fluxed to give myself 100% price of mind.

That only works with a ferrous metal. He could do a dye penetrant test to look for cracks. A kit isn't too expensive and cracks will show up under black light.

An eddy current test could also be used but outside of the aircraft industry I'm not sure where the equipment would be found.

What else is used for an aluminum block? Pressure testing?