Venom GT: On 3 Performance Turbo Build

[JeremyH]

Vortech procedure I used.


3. OIL DRAIN ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial](Engine oil-fed kits only. Applications with V-3 superchargers skip ahead to step 4.)
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]A. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]To provide an oil drain for the supercharger, it is necessary to make a hole in the oil pan. It is best to [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]punch [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]the hole rather than to drill it.
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]B. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Remove paint from the area around the hole.
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]C. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Mark the oil pan 5/8" down from the oil pan mounting rail on the driver’s side of the engine. Measure forward 3/4" from the first bolt on the side of the oil pan. (See [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Fig. 3-a[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial].)
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]D. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Use a small center punch to perforate the pan and expand the hole. Switch to a larger diameter punch and expand the hole further to approximately Ø9/16". Most punches are made from hexagon material and may be placed in a socket with an extension to make this procedure easier.
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]E. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Tap the hole with a 3/8"NPT tap approximately 1/4" deep. Pack the flutes of the tap with heavy grease to hold chips. Use a small magnet to check for any stray chips.

5/8"
3/4"
Fig. 3-a​

NOTE: This method of rolling over the lip of the hole and tapping it works very well if carefully done and should cause no problems.
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]F. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Thoroughly clean the threaded area. Apply a small amount of silicone sealer or teflon paste to the new threads. Apply more sealer to the 3/8"NPT hose fitting and secure in the hole. Make sure a seal is formed all around the fitting. (See [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Fig. 3-b[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial].)
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]G. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Drain the engine oil and change the filter.
Fig. 3-b
[/FONT][/FONT]

 

[jmn444]

I'm far from an expert, but I agree with removing the pan for that step regardless of punched or drilled... seems likely shavings would be left behind either way.

 

[JeremyH]

I'm far from an expert, but I agree with removing the pan for that step regardless of punched or drilled... seems likely shavings would be left behind either way.

I here ya there, the issue is drilling is not a good way to do it at all, wether the pan is on the car or off. Not only does create a lot more shavings and push it into the pan, it removes all the material you want to retain to tap for better threads.

Well this is the prefered method and its in the install directions. And i am sensitive to the idea of metal shavings in the pan as well, but i can say im 100% sure there are no shavings in the oil pan. I have used taps before and they are designed to pull the shavings out and thick grease i used held every little piece in place, worked like a charm. If I didnt have to install the oil feed line, i probably wouldnt have even drained the oil.

 

[AJ]

Me and Antonio did a midnight walmart run for the filter lol

 

[Bobby]

looks just like one of the coatings we use, i also use a satin color. i like the way the satin looks a little better. but it looks good keep up all the good work.

 

[JeremyH]

Any updates hows it going with the build guys?

 

[antonio1988]

Any updates hows it going with the build guys?

My installer got into an accident yesterday and it sill not be completed until Wednesday which is when BBR is tuning it. All that's left is to mount the intercooler and cold side and relocate the power steering resovoir. Also need to check that my plugs aren't fouled and put the injectors in. All just minor things but it will be done very soon

 

[antonio1988]

Another thing to be noted is that my car needs to go to an exhaust shop and have the midpipe cut to fit into where the hot side ends.

 

[JeremyH]

That sucks! SOunds like your jsut about done, what plugs are you going to use?

Ii ran into a problem and my wastgate wont reach the connecting pipe to the downpipe. Im guessing it was a slight error in flange placement and the length is off by 1/4". Thats my only real complaint with the kit.

 

[antonio1988]

That sucks! SOunds like your jsut about done, what plugs are you going to use?

Ii ran into a problem and my wastgate wont reach the connecting pipe to the downpipe. Im guessing it was a slight error in flange placement and the length is off by 1/4". Thats my only real complaint with the kit.

I'm running the Brisk plugs...

That sucks about the wategate not fitting right in, I would contact On 3 on Tuesday to get that resolved

 

[JeremyH]

I'm running the Brisk plugs...

That sucks about the wategate not fitting right in, I would contact On 3 on Tuesday to get that resolved

It will be quicker and easier just to have it cut and re welded at the shop when i get tuned. I will on3 know about it though. You can see pics of the fitment in my thread.

 

[fordrocks]

Any updates Antonio? Are you dropping by on Sat to the MSM 1 year anniversary?

 

[TurboPete]

I'm running the Brisk plugs...

That sucks about the wategate not fitting right in, I would contact On 3 on Tuesday to get that resolved

Anthony , just a little advice for you , get rid of the Brisk plugs and run HTO's . Ive tried almost every type of combination out there the stock COP with HTO's work the best . You'll need to gap them .030 , since your on the stock motor and not going to be pushing alot of boost.
anything past 15 psi's you should gap them down to .026.
The problem with the Brisk plugs have been that they foul up faster then the HTO's and the car starts to miss.

Can't wait to see the car up close good luck .


Pete

 

[antonio1988]

Anthony , just a little advice for you , get rid of the Brisk plugs and run HTO's . Ive tried almost every type of combination out there the stock COP with HTO's work the best . You'll need to gap them .030 , since your on the stock motor and not going to be pushing alot of boost.
anything past 15 psi's you should gap them down to .026.
The problem with the Brisk plugs have been that they foul up faster then the HTO's and the car starts to miss.

Can't wait to see the car up close good luck .


Pete

Car is up and running Pete! We had a few issues last night including the torque converter flashing (tci POS) so all I did was run the 3lb spring which yielded 6.8psi (I know, wtf?) and the car made 386/388. I went to a local dyno this morning for a few more pulls and the car made the same power, but then I got two runs without the converter flashing and the car made 408/413 on that same 6.8psi. This kit def makes power, and I'll be putting 9-10psi within a couple of weeks so I'm looking for 450+rwhp

 

[Towelly]

Wow! Nice! What was the deal with the wastegate? Vid's?!?!?!?

 

[rford426]

Nice glad to hear it up and running but I want some vids and pics when u get a chance congrats !

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Sweet, glad to hear its up and running. Cant wait to see some pics and vids.

 

[908ssp]

I here ya there, the issue is drilling is not a good way to do it at all, wether the pan is on the car or off. Not only does create a lot more shavings and push it into the pan, it removes all the material you want to retain to tap for better threads.

Well this is the prefered method and its in the install directions. And i am sensitive to the idea of metal shavings in the pan as well, but i can say im 100% sure there are no shavings in the oil pan. I have used taps before and they are designed to pull the shavings out and thick grease i used held every little piece in place, worked like a charm. If I didnt have to install the oil feed line, i probably wouldnt have even drained the oil.

I assume you are already done with this step?

The right way is to remove the pan and weld in a bung fitting. A bung has an internal thread for your pipe fitting and and external sleeve and shoulder that goes in a drilled hole. The bung is welded all the way around for clean permanent and sealed attachment. Put teflon pipe dope on the hose barb and thread into the bung. In case you have to do it again or someone else doesn't trust the punched distorted sheet metal.

 

[antonio1988]

I assume you are already done with this step?

The right way is to remove the pan and weld in a bung fitting. A bung has an internal thread for your pipe fitting and and external sleeve and shoulder that goes in a drilled hole. The bung is welded all the way around for clean permanent and sealed attachment. Put teflon pipe dope on the hose barb and thread into the bung. In case you have to do it again or someone else doesn't trust the punched distorted sheet metal.

That's exactly how we did it

 

[JeremyH]

I followed vortechs directions.

Glad to see shes running! Decnt numbers for low boost! Got mine running today too, dyno to to come soon!