What have you done to your mustang today?

EBABlacknChrome

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Hood struts installed! Speed Hut gauges, SOS triple pillar and innovate wideband controller for speed hut A/F started. I have to finish the wiring and get bung welded in. BMR pan hard bar with lowering springs, gt500 upper strut mounts and motor mounts ordered. Bilstein front and rears are setting here amongst other stuff collecting in the garage. Starting to think the wiring for the boost/vac may be to short.

SPEEDHUT great guys to work with

SPEED OF SOUND Alan has been fantastic to work with. Helped me a lot. (Long story lol).

JPC quick spipping.

BMR well I think Kelly thought I was another S197 forum weirdo lol. I would have bought a bunch much but he said "pan hard bar springs and drive it". Anybody buying LCA w/relo brackets, pan hard brace for the I guess is not needed or I just don't drive it hard enough! So far so good with BMR.
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Gabe

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I got back under the car today to deal with my exhaust leaks, found only the driver side leaking at the joint between the off-road pipe and the front of the H-pipe.
Removed the clamp swore at the gap that I had to eliminate:

20181005_exh1.jpg



Thought of maybe using a ratcheting strap to pull the pipes together.
Figured it was worth a shot, so I did that, and that pulled it together pretty good.

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Gave up on the factory clamp and got one of these from the local VatoZone:

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Installed that, tightened it down to about 19 ugga-duggas on each bolt, making sure the joint is dead-center..
Still leaking a bit, but nowhere near as bad as before.
Drove it, and left some rubber here and there.

 

Flusher

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Finally, something photo worthy. These came in last week, just now had the opportunity to unbox my new Vorshlag TT1s. Unfortunately I won't have a window of opportunity to install them until late November.

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Gabe

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Finally fixed my exhaust leaks at the front of the H-pipe.

I resorted to cutting off the flared sections of the H pipe and the off-road pipes and installing a butt connector with regular old clamps.

Picture is before I cut off the ends off the clamps

20181008_exh1.jpg
 
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EBABlacknChrome

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Finally fixed my exhaust leaks at the front of the H-pipe.

I resorted to cutting off the flared sections of the H pipe and the off-road pipes and installing a butt connector with regular old clamps.
Gabe what are you using to video that quick little ride the other day?
 

EBABlacknChrome

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Gabe

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Well thats cool! Though maybe had a gopro and some other crazy stuff. Lol.

I have a GoPro but will probably look to sell it.
Never use it. Plus, the battery life on those things sucks huge donkey dick. I get like 10 minutes before the battery dies.
 

EBABlacknChrome

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I have a GoPro but will probably look to sell it.
Never use it. Plus, the battery life on those things sucks huge donkey dick. I get like 10 minutes before the battery dies.
I damn near spit beer everywhere laughing so hard!

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Norm Peterson

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Finally fixed my exhaust leaks at the front of the H-pipe.

I resorted to cutting off the flared sections of the H pipe and the off-road pipes and installing a butt connector with regular old clamps.

Picture is before I cut off the ends off the clamps

View attachment 68228
Interesting. Looks like that approach would make installing an FRPP X-pipe a good bit easier as well.

Where did you source the butt connector?


Norm
 

Gabe

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Interesting. Looks like that approach would make installing an FRPP X-pipe a good bit easier as well.

Where did you source the butt connector?


Norm

The local Autozone.
Just made sure to get the 3" inside-diameter version, not the smaller 3" outside-diameter ones
 

Gabe

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Gotcha. Thanks.

Was concerned it might have been some specific Ford piece like the FRPP clamps that ship with the X-pipe and not as readily available.


Norm


Yeah, the local O'Reilly Auto Parts had the same choices.
The ones I got are regular aluminized stuff, not the stainless steel, but that was an option too.
This car doesn't see much wet weather, if any, so I thought SS was not really necessary.
 

Norm Peterson

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I might have to chase the SS pieces - mine is still as much of a DD as me being retired needs it to be, and I'm not going to bail on a registered & paid track day simply because it decided to rain.


Norm
 

eighty6gt

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Chances are mild steel will outlast your interest in the vehicle. Shoot it with a little bit of heat paint.
 

Norm Peterson

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Chances are mild steel will outlast your interest in the vehicle. Shoot it with a little bit of heat paint.
Care to make a friendly little virtual wager on that?

On average, we've kept the cars we bought new for about 18 years . . . her LGT is only our 7th car since 1971. If I get to keep the Mustang for as long as I kept the car it replaced, I'll be 93 when I watch it go away.

As it is today, I'm looking at a Torsen, 3.73's, and a close-ratio Tremec 6-speed for the Mustang.


Norm
 

Pentalab

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Forget the Torsen. Get an Eaton Tru-trac for half the price...comes with a 3.5:1 bias ratio..which is ample. But they require plane jane dino oil, no synthetic and no friction modifiers. They don't require a differential cooler either. I installed a bobs autosports catch can on my 2010. Connected to the pass side of the rear differential on a 05-10 car, extremely well made. Then u never lose any rear differential gear oil. The hose is long enough to allow for full rear suspension droop.. when on a 4 post lift.

I also installed the white line watts link. That comes with a new heavy duty differential cover..which includes the drain + fill plugs..which makes it real easy to drain...and re-fill. I used a ...'lube locker' new differential gasket. Zero issues with the wl watts link + the tru-trac. Tru-trac + watts link installed the same day. That combo is a killer combination, game changer.
 

Pentalab

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PB Blaster is your friend. I soaked em for a good 6 hours and even resprayed 3-4 times during that time. Just drown em.

What works better than PB blaster is a 50-50 mix of automatic tranny fluid... + acetone. Synthetic ATF works even better. But the concoction has to be mixed up really good. Various tests show that the 50-50 ATF / acetone mix is aprx 5 x more effective than PB blaster. I had a new small can of acetone left over from another paint project..and also had 1/2 pint of new synthetic ATF laying about..so tried a 50-50 mix on a very small scale.... just to test the concept. Works a lot better than I thought it would. I'm surprised somebody has not marketed it commercially. Acetone is available anywhere..like any paint store..and a lot of big box stores. ATF, dino or synthetic can be had anywhere.
 

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