What have you done to your mustang today?

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by *JZ*, Mar 18, 2011.

  1. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Member

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    Playing under the car. Got the tranny stuffed in the bell house and setting on the crossmember. Kind of a pain getting the input shaft through the twin discs and into the pilot bearing. I thought I lined them up pretty good but they wanted to fight. I resorted to two longer bolts to serve as guides with just slight tension and then stepped on the clutch pedal a few times. Tranny slipped right in. :rockon:
     
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  2. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Swapped out my BMR rear lower control arms (the 2" x 2.125" ones) & installed the Ford Performance M-5538-A kit (FoMoCo 07-14 GT500 rear lower control arms w\ all new hardware) to retain similar performance of the BMR's but also regain OEM look & some more rear axle articulation (the front control arm bushings of these LCA's are designed to allow the arm to move in arc w\ the rear axle along w\ the rear axle center diff bushing when 1 side of axle is compressing\rebounding) since these rear LCA's are reinforced & use a much harder durometer rubber in the bushings (to handle both the 5.4L 4V SC'd & 5.8L Trinity 4V SC'd Modular engine's TQ outputs) than what was OEM for my '09 GT.

    1 of the very 1st things I noticed from this swapout is the amount of rear axle NVH decrease vs the BMR LCA's. The amount of decrease was very apparent (would hear a bit of trans\rear axle gear whine when going thru the gears on both accel\decel prior w\ the BMR LCA's installed but I chalked it up as normal) but this also may be due to another thing I found.....the hole centers of the BMR LCA's were 1/4" longer than the OEM Ford's were so this small length change did affect my pinion angle slightly (had set it at -2.0* when I installed all the BMR parts some 2 yrs ago).....I didn't check it to see how much it moved but I don't think it changed no more than .5* to 1.0* at the most so around -1.5* to -1.0* PA instead of -2.0* PA so still within spec.......reality says that it's not causing any issues at all as she still spins smooth (Ford Performance 1-Piece Aluminum DS) & quiet but it "could" have been a contributor\conductor to some of the NVH. Now I can't pick up\feel any of the NVH anymore that I had been used to hearing\feeling & I also still have no detected wheel hop when hard launched from a dig so I haven't lost any of this control either vs the BMR LCA's.

    I didn't think I would since my little 4.6L NA engine's 322 ft\lbs TQ output wouldn't be coming anywhere close to overpowering them & I haven't changed spring height so all control arm angles remain the same as before swapout.....so far the results prove out. I want to say it feels better to me when shifting thru the gears now since the swapout but may just be placebo effect.....

    Intentionally going over rough, twisty roads at varying speeds (my method of testing rear axle articulation control among other items of interest) I can sense that the rear axle seems to move\respond more freely (picking up less axle NVH) but maintaining excellent tire contact to road thus stability during uneven axle compression\rebound where 1 side goes into compression\rebound while the other side does not so this is where I believe the FoMoCo GT500's LCA's front articulating bushing is contributing to this in concert w\ the upgraded FoMoCo '14 GT500 UCA rear diff axle bushing I installed prior (allows the LCA's to slightly flex\rotate across the front bushing's center sleeve w\o contacting the unibody bushing mounts but remain very solid feeling while the side is compressing\rebounding thus isn't transferring as much counter load thru the LCA's into the front LCA unibody mounts as the BMR LCA's would under the same conditions since the BMR LCA's front poly bushings are in contact w\ the unibody bushing mounts at all times & are not designed to articulate which would also help to transfer more detectable rear axle NVH into the unibody) which helps to smooth\quiet out the ride along w\ my newly upgraded FoMoCo '13 Track Pack 24mm rear sway bar providing increased rear body roll control over the axle. I didn't pay as much attention to all this in the beginning but now I understand why Ford designed these geometric aspects into this 3-link rear axle setup & how it all works together. If I ever do decide to go more carver mode I'll be switching to an all spherical bushing setup but not w\ this Glass Roof..........

    Yeah I know what I've done here is to some a counterproductive move but I see it as a "2fer" move....kinda swinging more towards corner carving tech application since more of this tech transfers well to the street side than drag racing tech which IMHO makes for an overall much more comfy, responsive & fun car to drive on the street but retain as much of the OEM feel by strategically using as many upgraded later MY FoMoCo S197 OEM & Ford Performance (mostly upgraded later MY FoMoCo OEM) parts that are\provide actual performance improvements vs the '09 MY OEM equivalent parts.

    This '09 Glass Roof of mine deserves it.
     
  3. nfrizell

    nfrizell Member

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    Installed a hitch.[​IMG]

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  4. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    Just noticed you have the 2007-09 GT500 wheels in 18x9.5" and was curious as to what size your 18" tires are both front and rear? Also curious what brand your splash guards are as well, as I'd be interested in getting a set for my "06" GT. Meanwhile, thanks for sharing an image of your S197 GT :waytogo:
     
  5. nfrizell

    nfrizell Member

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    275 40 18's all the way around. The mud guards were on it when I bought it. I'll look for any identification on them next time I'm in the garage.

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  6. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    I also have 275/40/18's on all 4 corners as well.. Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's on the same GT500 wheels as yours. Meanwhile, look forward to the identification info on the splash guards the next time your in the garage :cheersman:
     
  7. nfrizell

    nfrizell Member

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    The mud guards are these. http://jaegerbrothersauto.com/auto-parts/2005-2009 Mustang GT Splash Guards, Full Set_84.html
    [​IMG]

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    06 T-RED S/C GT likes this.
  8. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

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    After 5.5 years, replaced the Motorcraft battery in the '05 with another Motorcraft battery.
    Looking back at the receipts, been getting 5.25-5.5 years out of them since I've had the Mustang.
     
  9. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    I also have the Jeager bros on mine as well. Unfortunately one on the rear somehow managed to come off, so I don't know if they can sell just a single replacement or if they're only sold in entire pairs/sets? I'd also be interested in getting molded splash guards, if any are available for both front and rear :shrug:

    Do you also connect your Motorcraft batteries to a tender charger whenever your car is not in use? My current Motorcraft battery is 4 years old and always keep it connected to a battery tender whenever my car is inside the garage. Thru my personal experience, keeping the batteries connected to battery tenders do in fact extend their lifespans beyond 3-4 years.
     
  10. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

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    Yep, I have several of the Deltran Battery Tenders that get put on the riding mower, motorcycles and cars when they are not in use for anything more than a week or so.
     
  11. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    The Deltrans are definitely one of the most reliable battery tenders on the market. Meanwhile, I've owned my battery minder plus manufactured by VDC electronics for nearly 10 years and still continues to work flawlessly.

    51r2j-DM1RL._AC_.jpg
     
  12. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator S197 Team Member

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    those are better than "battery tender" brand?

    I need to get one
     
  13. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    I wouldn't say their better than the "Deltran" battery tender brand, but are equally just as good.. IMHO, can't really go wrong with either one.
     
  14. Put on some Kelltrac (Kelly Aiken) valved Viking crusaders. Looking forward to getting out to do some testing. As far as I know, the only 6r80 (not 4r200) cars in the 7’s all wear these setups. Correct me if I’m wrong

    A9770089-137D-4A72-92C5-CB3457DEF722.jpeg
     
  15. scramblr

    scramblr Senior Member S197 Team Member

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    Over the last couple of days, dropped the K-Member to drill/tap and install Heli-Coils in all the oil pan bolt holes. That was tedious. Figured since the A arms are off, upgrade to the GT500 Arms. Easy until figured out a bolt was seized to the bushing sleeve which I had to cut-off. Ughhh... Then saw one of the outer tie rod ends was blown out, so going to replace those while I'm at it.

    All this shit came about chasing an oil leak. Rear main has been replaced as well as the dip stick tube. Shit better not leak....
     
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  16. ford20

    ford20 forum member

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    What are Heli-Coils and what are they for?
     
  17. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hll-5521-6

    They are threaded inserts, looking much like springs, to repair stripped threads. You drill out the stripped threads to the specified size, then run the coil down into the threads, creating the proper sized threaded hole.


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  18. ford20

    ford20 forum member

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    So the coil itself becomes the thread that the bolt screws into?
     
  19. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    Yes sir, the inside of the coil actually becomes the threads, while the outside of the coil screws into the threads of the bigger hole you drill and tap. Some advocate the use of Loc Tite to prevent it from backing out.


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  20. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    Quick illustration video


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