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Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by *JZ*, Mar 18, 2011.
Holy cow, that must have bounced around in there a bit.
Don't know if you've tried this, I've gotten VINs from sales ads of subject cars and plugged them into the Ford part site to get the part #s I've been looking for.
No I didn’t try that....honestly I didn’t know that was possible but thanks for the tip!
I’ll keep this in mind going forward....I just now realized I can get VIN’s thru sites like Car Gurus....damn I’m getting old!
Car gurus, Cars . Com, Autotrader, ebay, it goes on and on.
I was about 6000rpm when it happened lol I lost power(no blower) and ran over my own belt and pulley...and then got towed home. Coasted to a 10.8 at 122 though
I got the clutch pulled out of my GT today. As expected, with some relief, the clutch disk had welded itself to the flywheel. All 10 pucks transferred material to the flywheel.
Looks like you got more TQ on tap than that clutch disc/pressure plate could hold....
That is a McLeod steel flywheel with their Extreme Street clutch and pressure plate. Supposed to handle 700 hp/tq and work on the strip. I had no complaints, never felt it slip and it grabbed smoothly. Until it stuck. I talked to McLeod and they said I overheated it. OK, I explained it was the first run of the day. Four second burnout in water then roll out under power to clean the tires. Eased up to stage all normal and launched at about 5 grand. It wrinkled the tires and lifted the front wheels and sadly would not shift. McLeod suggested not powering out of the water box. I said “what?
I am thinking the RXT is next. I took the flywheel to a machine shop to be resurfaced.
Wow, how stupid is their response.. is it rated for 700 or not... Lol
When I got a clutch recommendation from McLeod a few years ago they insisted on the RXT as soon as I mentioned the dragstrip, even with only 600 hp. Never had any slipping issues while it was in the car.
Not even close....new bar's center section also resides further up under car giving a lot more clearance for floor jack access.
Tested all out & now the car is much better balanced & controllable which inspires more confidence rolling into\powering out of tighter turns at higher speeds w\ this upgraded OEM PP frt\rear sway bar tandem (makes better use of these Continental Extreme Contact DWS06's I have her shod with). Becoming more fun to drive now................
Seeing more upgrades coming on the horizon...............................
What is the thickness of the new bar? 24mm ?
Also, Any chance it has a sticker like this on it, with this exact part number?
Yep it's a 24mm dia bar. CR33-5A771-AG is the actual Ford manuf rear sway bar tag part# (also references mounting position on car) that was referenced (the FoMoCo CR3Z-5A772-Q) to this BR33-5482-BE actual Ford manuf front sway bar tag part# I bought used\low miles (looks brand new) that physically came off a '13 Boss 302.
Looking at these for a future upgrade.................
Along w\ this......................
Ok. The picture I posted is off my car, a '13 GT Track Pack, also with a 24mm rear sway bar. I'm thinking it's probably identical to the one you just bought, the one you got maybe just an updated part number. Ford is known for doing that when they make a change, however slight it might be.
Put on new winter wheels. Touren TR76 18x8 and Continental Vikingcontact 7. These rims clear the 4 piston Brembos. I have a pair of Brembos that I’ll install in the summer. I test fitted them with these wheels, got 2-3mm clearance.
0FF9C3A5-DCDC-4330-A088-D9E52015B17E by xeninworx posted Oct 31, 2020 at 3:08 PM
According to the description, these Ford Performance shocks and struts have been engineered specifically for improved handing on both stock ride height and lowered 2007-2012 SVT Mustangs and 2005-2012 GT Mustangs. This kit features single adjustment modifications with two-way response. The struts and shocks will work with stock suspension components and aftermarket components.
What I don't quite understand, is how they can claim their engineered for both stock ride height and lowering spring applications? Perhaps I'm missing something here, but IIRC aren't dampers with shorter valving recommended and also more compatible for lowering spring applications vs dampers with longer OEM valving
Burned thru half a tank of E85 today, felt good burning up some tires.
Aired up the front tires, which is a lot more work than one would think, wheels have to come off the car due to the dumb ass placement of the valve stem by Trueforged
washed it and put her away.
You can't just turn the wheel to one side, do one tire from the back, and do the same on the other side?