What have you done to your mustang today?

EBABlacknChrome

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Very nice indeed! Also totally jealous here as well :waytogo:
Thank you! I keep forgetting you have the full lid on your Saleen Supercharger. So yeah changing the fluid will be a bit harder than mine.
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bmeaggie

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"Mustang"



Ferrada wheels? Great fitment. What specs did you have to go with?

They were already on the car when I bought her, but the prev owner provided the receipt. See attached. The stance on the rears is perfect for 285 rear tire... but if you want larger, it would be better if the offset was more in the + direction... maybe +45 or so IMO. I’m running 295s now and it works ok... no fender contact... will probably try a 305 DR on the next change.

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06 T-RED S/C GT

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Thank you! I keep forgetting you have the full lid on your Saleen Supercharger. So yeah changing the fluid will be a bit harder than mine.
3211f6d09483c2a86d30e0c10d05b5ab.jpg


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What steps would be involved in order to uninstall just the lid? If the fuel rails, coolant hoses and water crossover pipe don't require removal? Then taking off the lid would provide the best access to the oil plug for checking/changing the SC oil.

Edit: I forgot your super shaker setup is different compared to the regular series VI. Therefore by just removing the upper lid on my series VI wouldn't make any difference in providing more access clearance to the SC oil plug, to begin with anyhow :shrug:
 
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Gabe

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They were already on the car when I bought her, but the prev owner provided the receipt. See attached. The stance on the rears is perfect for 285 rear tire... but if you want larger, it would be better if the offset was more in the + direction... maybe +45 or so IMO. I’m running 295s now and it works ok... no fender contact... will probably try a 305 DR on the next change.

You're not gonna be happy with that. A 305 on a 10.5"-wide wheel is gonna have some sidewall bulge and with the crazy offset of those wheels, you'll probably have tire/fender contact.
A 10.5" wheel really needs an offset closer to ~50 mm to tuck a fat tire.
Just like an 11"-wide wheel should have an offset closer to 60mm
 

bmeaggie

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You're not gonna be happy with that. A 305 on a 10.5"-wide wheel is gonna have some sidewall bulge and with the crazy offset of those wheels, you'll probably have tire/fender contact.
A 10.5" wheel really needs an offset closer to ~50 mm to tuck a fat tire.
Just like an 11"-wide wheel should have an offset closer to 60mm

Thanks for the input... important things to consider for sure.

The potential for contact bothers me much more than a little bulge (as long as it’s just a little). Here’s the Nitto 555 R 305/35/20 on a 9.5” wide wheel. That was too much bulge and I put them on 10.5” after that and they looked good.

Totally agree on the offset too... not sure why the prev owner didn’t get them more pulled inside. My Pilot Super Sports are pretty new. So nothing is happening soon. Here’s how they sit at 11.9” wide. The Nitto DR’s are 12.17” wide... taller too I bet... probably not worth taking the chance.

New wheels are such a big investment... so if I want to race I could go a different direction and just buy similar-looking generic 17” rears only from Jegs and put some nice fat MT ET Street R’s and call it done... my best times ever 1/4 and 1/8 have all been on MT ET Street R’s.

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Gabe

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Took the wife's Shelby to work again today.
700+ horsepower GT500, drag radials on the back, and wet roads. What more could I ask for? :lol:

Ok, it was a fun ride, only spun a few times. :lol:

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Gabe

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you love rolling the dice and have a brave wife

Lol yes she is brave.
Crazy thing is, she asked me to drive it since she can't take it to her work due to the conditions of the parking lot there.
 

Juice

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About to install:
Boss 302 oil cooler, 180*tstat, 3.89 gears.
Oil temps were getting to 280* toward the end of track sessions.
 

Iceman62

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I sadly shed a tear as the battery tender's connected & cover'd her up for another long MidWest slumber...:(

City's brining the streets in prep f/ 3-5" of snow predicted tomorrow. >.<
 

Anti

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Thanks for the input... important things to consider for sure.

The potential for contact bothers me much more than a little bulge (as long as it’s just a little). Here’s the Nitto 555 R 305/35/20 on a 9.5” wide wheel. That was too much bulge and I put them on 10.5” after that and they looked good.

Totally agree on the offset too... not sure why the prev owner didn’t get them more pulled inside. My Pilot Super Sports are pretty new. So nothing is happening soon. Here’s how they sit at 11.9” wide. The Nitto DR’s are 12.17” wide... taller too I bet... probably not worth taking the chance.

New wheels are such a big investment... so if I want to race I could go a different direction and just buy similar-looking generic 17” rears only from Jegs and put some nice fat MT ET Street R’s and call it done... my best times ever 1/4 and 1/8 have all been on MT ET Street R’s.

View attachment 74776

View attachment 74777

Yea, ferrada's offset options are basically what you have. I'm with Gabe, with that aggressive offset in the rear, even 295's would be risky, but more plausible than 305's.
 

Laga

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Finalized the tune from Lito for the larger fuel injectors. 60# injectors for the E85 conversion. Car is incredibly fast now. Hopefully, I can get it to the track to see exactly what it will do. C6C56F50-E3F8-4F6A-9430-8A9625638774.jpeg
 

GlassTop09

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Have replaced my existing OEM front sway bar w\ this FoMoCo part# BR33-5482-BE ('13 Ford Mustang Boss 302) which is a part used w\ the Ford Performance Pack option also provided for same MY GT Coupes if ordered so. Tested the part on some twisty roads after install (in tandem w\ recently installed Ford Performance M-3075-E FLCA Kit w\ prior installed Ford Performance M-18183-C USM Kit using Koni STR.ST struts\shocks w\ the OEM '09 frt\rear springs) & the handling performance\steering response was so night & day improved over the OEM part it replaced, I went to my local Ford dealership today & had this frt sway bar's part# cross referenced to find the matching rear sway bar assembly for the same '13 Boss 302 (part# CR3Z-5A772-Q....comes fully assembled w\ all parts to install it out the box) & ordered it to replace the existing OEM rear sway bar assembly on my '09 Stang as well to work in concert w\ the new frt sway bar.

I like that these parts provide a useful upgrade improvement path for 05-09 S197's while still maintaining OEM look\fit.
 
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Gabe

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Have replaced my existing OEM front sway bar w\ this FoMoCo part# BR33-5482-BE ('13 Ford Mustang Boss 302) which is a part used w\ the Ford Performance Pack option also provided for same MY GT Coupes if ordered so. Tested the part on some twisty roads after install (in tandem w\ recently installed Ford Performance M-3075-E FLCA Kit w\ prior installed Ford Performance M-18183-C USM Kit using Koni STR.ST struts\shocks w\ the OEM '09 frt\rear springs) & the handling performance\steering response was so night & day improved over the OEM part it replaced, I went to my local Ford dealership today & had this frt sway bar's part# cross referenced to find the matching rear sway bar assembly for the same '13 Boss 302 (part# CR3Z-5A772-Q....comes fully assembled w\ all parts to install it out the box) & ordered it to replace the existing OEM rear sway bar assembly on my '09 Stang as well to work in concert w\ the new frt sway bar.

I like that these parts provide a useful upgrade improvement path for 05-09 S197's while still maintaining OEM look\fit.

That part number seems a bit off.
I looked into the Boss 25mm rear swaybar (part # CR3Z-5A772-S) for my '13 GT Track Pack which currently has the stock 24mm bar and at 8 years old, it's starting to get a little creaky from the factory bushings wearing out.
I found it as low as $166 with free shipping which is a deal and a half, considering it comes with the links and bushings all installed, just gotta bolt it up.
 

Gabe

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Yesterday I pulled the passenger-side spark plugs out of my car to inspect them, they've been in there for 5 years (since June '15 actually) and about 20k miles. Much longer than I had thought. They're NGK 6510 and I remember when I first put them in that the car seemed to idle a bit smoother and run better (maybe just placebo effect, but whatever). Measured the gap and it was .030-.032", which is a bit larger than I thought I set them to.
Well, I decided to replace them instead of just resetting the gap and putting them back in, especially since I found them for $5.21 a piece at Rockauto .... guys on Facebook "just put them back in and run them another 20k miles" ... lol, NO.
Cheap maintenance. Gonna set the gap at .028" on the new ones.

Gotta get some new plugs for the wife's Shelby too before it starts next season, I think her plugs are about 2 years old and I used to replace them every year on her car since they're just copper TR6's.



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GlassTop09

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That part number seems a bit off.
I looked into the Boss 25mm rear swaybar (part # CR3Z-5A772-S) for my '13 GT Track Pack which currently has the stock 24mm bar and at 8 years old, it's starting to get a little creaky from the factory bushings wearing out.
I found it as low as $166 with free shipping which is a deal and a half, considering it comes with the links and bushings all installed, just gotta bolt it up.
Well Gabe, I can only give what my local Ford dealership parts guy found when he ran the cross reference on the actual FoMoCo part# off the tag of the frt sway bar that matched it........which does show up as a Ford Performance Pack option for '13 Boss 302 or '13 GT Coupe w\ Performance Package option. There was 1 other performance package grouping listed above this 1......SVT Performance Package (assuming this came w\ either the '13 GT500 or '13 Boss 302 Laguna Secca models or as a special order package for a GT Coupe\Convertible).

I asked him if the '13 Boss 302 had 2 different specific part#'s for the same part family (5A772) since I know that there are 2 variants of '13 Boss 302's (base Boss 302 & the Boss 302 Laguna Secca)......was informed that they would need the VIN to narrow it down (which I didn't have access to) any further but the number I gave for the rear sway bar assembly fits the exact same group usage description given for the actual full FoMoCo part# of the frt sway bar I recently picked up that physically came off a '13 Boss 302 (all verified off Ford dealership's parts system) so that's all I can go off of......

This is the issue I'm told when trying to do MY cross referencing of Ford OEM parts across a specific platform (such as S197 which spans from 05-14) if you don't have the actual VIN number to narrow down the options to the specific part(s) that was ordered\installed.........the FoMoCo xxxx-xxxxx-xx number alone can only get you so far when used to cross reference parts to a specific vehicle MY\model group.

As for my '09 GT Premium (the S197 base model for all GT Glass Roof's) it won't matter much as either this 1 I have bought (24 mm or .95") or the 1 you listed (25 mm or .98") will be a major upgrade vs the OEM 20mm (.78") rear sway bar my car came with....not to mention they'll come w\ harder, improved durometer rubber bushings in the isolators & links to further improve their effectiveness as well as better spring steel stock vs my '09 OEM part.........

You did better on the price than I did as mine costs me $177.65 + tax w\ free shipping to local dealer pick up.
 

Flusher

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Rolled my '13-'14 rear GT500 brake rotors and caliper brackets from my V6 to my GT500. There is a four pound weight difference between a '08 GT500 rear rotor and a '13 '14 rear rotor.
 

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