What have you done to your mustang today?

Bullitt2954

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Yes sir, the inside of the coil actually becomes the threads, while the outside of the coil screws into the threads of the bigger hole you drill and tap. Some advocate the use of Loc Tite to prevent it from backing out.


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You put them into blind holes in the pan rail, I presume?

If not, you only think you had leak issues previously.....
 

Bullitt2954

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So the coil itself becomes the thread that the bolt screws into?

There are other thread-insert types as well, used for different applications.

Here I repaired pulled-threads (5/8”) in the face of an Arburg 165-ton molding-machine platen. The inserts are made from a tool steel. Nearly file-hard.


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scramblr

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You put them into blind holes in the pan rail, I presume?

If not, you only think you had leak issues previously.....

In my case I had about 7-8 holes that I couldn't get to proper torque spec and %. That along with dip stick tube o-ring, I've been chasing this oil leak for a long time. Finally used a dye and saw the oil was coming out at the bolts and the dip stick tube. Meaning the bolts were not tight enough and the oil found the path of least resistance. Unfortunately a few of the holes were above the K-Member, so I dropped it and did all 16 holes...may as well, was already there. Also replaced the dip stick tube.

Idled the car last night and no leak. Doing it again now. Can't test drive it until UPS brings me A Arm bolts tomorrow (that's a separate story). Really hoping the test drives shows there's no leak. It's been a long road to get this fixed properly.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Gabe

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Jacked it up and had the wife inside giving it gas, as I was trying to pinpoint the source of a rattle from underneath. Pretty sure it's in the h-pipe at this point, either a crack or a broken weld.
I plan on removing it to further inspect it. We'll see, I have the factory one I can throw on if needed.

IMG_20201128_105715.jpg
 

ford20

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Jacked it up and had the wife inside giving it gas, as I was trying to pinpoint the source of a rattle from underneath. Pretty sure it's in the h-pipe at this point, either a crack or a broken weld.
I plan on removing it to further inspect it. We'll see, I have the factory one I can throw on if needed.

View attachment 75352

I think I still have the Kooks H-Pipe in my garage if needed, I can take a look if you need me to.
 

Gabe

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I also have my factory H pipe for a backup as well, if needed Gabe :waytogo:

I think I still have the Kooks H-Pipe in my garage if needed, I can take a look if you need me to.

Thanks guys.
Rocky, I'm pretty sure the 4.6 H-pipe won't fit a Coyote, but never looked to confirm it ...

Send me a PM please with the price you guys would be looking for, in case I have to go that way
 

Gabe

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31 degrees outside and I'm taking this to work :)

IMG_20201203_075917917.jpg
 

cavero

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31 degrees outside and I'm taking this to work :)

View attachment 75375
Time to put the chains on :D. Like the decal on the gas door BTW.


Me, put LED bulbs in my driving/fog lights

dsc_7984_combo_c5d8c9afc446bf6d316da61d8785caed35a4838d.jpg
 

Forty61

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I replaced all my rotors, pads and bled the brakes this past week. Pedal feel is better (the fluid was ancient) and stopping feels a lot more sure-footed. Now I need to chase down my steering shake at speed and find some cheap tires so it’ll pass inspection.. always something to be tinkering on!
 

ShelbySteve

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Jacked it up and had the wife inside giving it gas, as I was trying to pinpoint the source of a rattle from underneath. Pretty sure it's in the h-pipe at this point, either a crack or a broken weld.
I plan on removing it to further inspect it. We'll see, I have the factory one I can throw on if needed.

View attachment 75352
I had busted cats on 2 different occasions that rattled like crazy. I swore it was metal on metal rubbing somewhere on the exhaust.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Thanks guys.
Rocky, I'm pretty sure the 4.6 H-pipe won't fit a Coyote, but never looked to confirm it ...

Gabe, you mentioned having the factory mid pipe you can throw back on, if needed correct? Anyhow, I was just pointing out in my response that I also have my factory mid-pipe as a backup, just in case I may need to replace my current setup in the event something goes wrong. Needless to say, I didn't say nor claim the 4.6L H-pipe would fit on a Coyote 5.0 being as the pipe diameter is 3" vs the pipe diameter for the 4.6L 3 valve as having 2.5" lol.
 

oldVOR

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Jacked it up and had the wife inside giving it gas, as I was trying to pinpoint the source of a rattle from underneath. Pretty sure it's in the h-pipe at this point, either a crack or a broken weld.
I plan on removing it to further inspect it. We'll see, I have the factory one I can throw on if needed.

View attachment 75352

I chased down a rattle that turned out to be the heat shields. At certain speeds/RPM's, the heat shields would vibrate and send rattling sounds back into the cabin. I thought for sure it was metal on metal but it was just the shields. Lightly giving them more of a bend here and there stopped the rattles.
 

Norm Peterson

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Went after a lot of very fine white specks in the paint with a clay bar. Not sure what they were or how they got there. I won't know how what I did get done came out until tomorrow, as the job was called for approaching darkness.

Detailing still isn't something I enjoy doing, not by a long shot. But I had a warmish day and figured I'd better get after it anyway.


Norm
 

bujeezus

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fNRLR5f.jpg

Finally decided to give the headlight repair kit a shot. If I screwed it up, I could install the 1s I bought earlier this year. Only did the one because I waited too late in the day and the ceramic coating has to dry for an hour. I fucked up the final step but you can't see it from 10ft away. If it lasts, I'm thoroughly impressed with how it came out. Night and day difference.
 

Norm Peterson

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^^^ looks good, bu.


I spent the afternoon doing the cowl leak repair, the one with the heat-seal grommets and the TA-2 seam sealer. Ended up buying a nice Wagner heat gun that came with a nozzle adapter that deflects the hot air away from one direction, like away from the windshield glass here.

Time will tell on this job, too. Side note, that TA-2 stuff is awful damn stiff.


Norm
 

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