What have you done to your mustang today?

[Gabe]

Where you have your lift pad on the left front is not a proper lift point. It will easily crush and bind up your k-member. This can affect alignment among other things. Lift on the frame rail or the jack points along the pinch weld of the rocker.


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I've used that spot a couple times and it's crazy to see the sheetmetal under the K-member bend as the jack tries to lift the car.
I'm partially wondering if I've left that metal permanently bent now.

 

[GriffX]

I try to do a home re build of the missing parts for the underbody. For the A-arm brace a used a standard steel tube, squeezed the ends with a shop press, drilled 4 holes in it and installed it with nuts/bolts. Big difference in driving.
The side parts (red circle) I used 3 mm ABS to fill it and the blue middle part I'm still working on with 4 mm ABS, but it is more complicated than I thought to mount it to the K-Member.
(Why I not simply buy it? I'm in Germany and shipping, customs and tax is more than I'm willing to spend for it )

 

[crjackson]

Installed these today …

 

[Candy10]

Installed these today …
View attachment 88513

I went with Steeda too, but did the spherical bearing on the diff and rod end on the arm. Most people would hate the noise, but the sound of the 4.10s winding up and down is reminiscent of the in car shots of LM cars at Lemans (or similar). It’s fucking awesome!!

Wife can’t stand it, I don’t care LOL

 

[Mach2burnout]

I went with Steeda too, but did the spherical bearing on the diff and rod end on the arm. Most people would hate the noise, but the sound of the 4.10s winding up and down is reminiscent of the in car shots of LM cars at Lemans (or similar). It’s fucking awesome!!

Wife can’t stand it, I don’t care LOL

I used the same as you. Actually quieted mine down!


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[JC SSP]

How was the install of the Steeda bushing?

 

[Mach2burnout]

How was the install of the Steeda bushing?

Install was easy, put in freezer overnight, removed factory bushing and then knocked the Steeda bushing in. Used a large socket and a ball peen to tap it in.
The removal of the old bushing is a pita!
On my ‘14 I removed as much of the rubber as possible using a 3/8 drill bit( it was damaged to begin with) and used a torch to split the steel sleeve and then knocked it out. On my ‘05 I used the YouTube method of using a air hammer/chisel to remove the sleeve. If I ever do it again I’ll use the torch method. I’m much too impatient for the air chisel method and I’m way too experienced with a torch to go through all that.
Of course you must be prepared for the terrible smoke and the possibility of fire, so precautions need to be taken.


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[JC SSP]

Thx buddy I appreciate it! Might try this on mine in the near future.

 

[Gabe]

For the wife's car, finally got the taller shift handle for the MGW shifter.
MGW used to offer a 1' taller handle, now they only offer a half-inch version.
It doesn't sound like a lot, but the extra leverage comes in handy ( ) and makes it quite a bit easier to shift that TR-6060
Plus, it looks cooler with more of that stainless steel handle being visible.





Both handles:

 

[MrBhp]

Ok. Looking for negatives on the On3 kit. Thank you

The On3 kit is fine if you go into it knowing that it will not fit properly without some minor work. I'm pulling my hot side piping out to modify. Just got my mig set up today. The wastegate piping is too low. My car sits fairly low, so it can be a problem. Other than that, expect to beat to fit, paint to match.

 

[XJCasper]

The On3 kit is fine if you go into it knowing that it will not fit properly without some minor work. I'm pulling my hot side piping out to modify. Just got my mig set up today. The wastegate piping is too low. My car sits fairly low, so it can be a problem. Other than that, expect to beat to fit, paint to match.

Thank you. Remind me..

Which drop spring do you run?
Do you know how much clearance the BOV has bellow the car?

Thank you

 

[MrBhp]

I run coil overs. It sits about where it did with the frpp suspension.

 

[XJCasper]

Ok. Good to know. Thank you

 

[2008_ScarlettGT]

"Downgraded" my brakes from 6 piston to 4 piston. I liked the 6 piston, but I needed my style of wheel in a 20" to fit them correctly and I really didn't want to go with 20's. I couldnt get the tires to balance properly and I had a vibration at 60+ on the highway. It was also cheaper to go the 4 piston route vs buying new wheels and tires. I'm still very happy with the 4 piston.

 

[crjackson]

How was the install of the Steeda bushing?

Very Time Consuming. Cleaning the rubber out, and leaving the outer sleeve of the old bushing in place (without damaging, or weakening it) is a PITA. The urethane bushing fits inside of the old-bushing-sleeve. It’s fairly noisy at times as well.

 

[crjackson]

I went with Steeda too, but did the spherical bearing on the diff and rod end on the arm. Most people would hate the noise, but the sound of the 4.10s winding up and down is reminiscent of the in car shots of LM cars at Lemans (or similar). It’s fucking awesome!!

Wife can’t stand it, I don’t care LOL

The urethane bushing isn’t exactly quiet either. I don’t mind it much, except that it knocks really hard/loud when rolling over sharp bumps or dips. It sounds like something is loose and knocking around (but it’s not AFAIK).

There’s some gear whine (fairly minor), some transmitted road/tire howling (resembles a bad tire, or wheel bearing, not too fond of that), and clunking when shifting, but I found that blipping the accelerator between gears totally eliminated that noise.

On the positive side, man it tightened up a bunch of driveline slack. It moves out MUCH more solid from a stop. No more rubber-band-like trailer-hitching if I don’t baby the clutch engagement. I mean Damn! It feels great!

Also, I can nail it in second, and let the rubber burn without kicking sideways, or fishtailing. Straight as an arrow as long as you like.
I never thought it possible.

 

[Candy10]

The urethane bushing isn’t exactly quiet either. I don’t mind it much, except that it knocks really hard/loud when rolling over sharp bumps or dips. It sounds like something is loose and knocking around (but it’s not AFAIK).

Same knocking sound on this version. Must be a Steeda thing. But like you said, tightened everything up, so I have no complaints

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I did more tinkering over the weekend.
I've found that the heat shield of the JLT 3 CAI is inadequate at blocking out hot underhood air. At highway speeds the IAT would be only 7*F above ambient but when slowing the car down or coming to a stop, datalogging showed the IAT would rise to ~50*F above ambient within three minutes. Not good for performance!
The solution? I had more of the polyurethane foam that I'd previously stuck onto the underside of the hood to cure hood flutter, so I put it to good use by sealing off all the gaps that I could find in the CAI heat shield. I also placed additional material onto the left radiator cover extension. As a result, the CAI is properly sealed off when I shut the hood and it sucks fresh air from the fenderwell, from underneath ahead of the ABS control module, and through the upper grille. The devil's in the fine details (BTW the air filter is clean )!



So how did it go? Very well I'd say. From 45mph upwards the IAT is just 2*F above ambient, at 30mph the IAT is a mere 7*F above ambient and when coming to a stop, the IAT rises much more slowly (only by ~20*F above ambient after three minutes).
When the car is stationary, some degree of heat soaking is inevitable but IMO, this is as good as it's gonna get. Job done!

 

[Candy10]

@Dino Dino Bambino
I’m jealous. Went to top off my car today for upcoming dyno day and decided to hook up the ol SCT to track some temps. Here in Central Texas today, it was 108 (feels like 112 according to Google lol). 3 hard pulls and IAT got up to 156. cruising back home about 2miles they dropped only to 144 degrees and stayed there. It’s a Kenne Bell, heat is my fucking nemesis, especially in this weather, but 2 degrees above ambient sure would be nice.

Looking at it through a positive lens though, I used to see 170 IATs in the Southern California summer with the tiny old heat exchanger. Also, coolant temps barely touched 200 on the wot pulls. Getting better but still need more “cool”

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

It's a lot more challenging to keep the IATs of a forced induction set up closer to ambient simply because compressing the intake gases generates heat.
You can at least fit a large intercooler behind the front bumper if you have a turbo or a centrifugal blower, and this makes it easier to limit the rise in IAT when driving hard. However positive displacement blowers have their own water (coolant) cooled heat exchanger and since underhood space is limited, the heat exchanger is small and requires a pump to circulate coolant from a separate tank to conduct the heat away.
Installing a water-meth injection system to provide additional cooling of the intake charge might alleviate your problem.