What have you done to your mustang today?

[Miker]

Cleaned the throttle body. Didn't have any issues just wanted to do it as I had never been in there. What I discovered is a little build up but more importantly I saw no oily residue from the driver side PCV inside the manifold. It looked completely dry. Finding that killed my intent to get a catch can for the PCV.

 

[golkhl]

 

[golkhl]

 

[Gabe]

Started pricing and researching clutches for my '13.
At almost 60k miles, boosted for about 8-9 years now, it's still on the original clutch but I'm getting a weird squeaking when engaging first gear and at a couple other movements, I think the clutch may finally be on its way out.
Due to the issues we have with the RXT in my wife's GT500, I want to stay away from a McLeod product.
Looking at Exedy and a couple other choices.

 

[diambo4life]

I hear great things about the Exedy twin.

 

[crjackson]

it's still on the original clutch

If you got 9 years on the original, why not replace it with an OEM? Seems like it’s done an excellent job, and lasted a long time. It’s hard to beat an OEM on a daily driver.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Due to the issues we have with the RXT in my wife's GT500, I want to stay away from a McLeod product.

That's interesting. What issues are you having?
I've had the McLeod RXT for 8+ years and, apart from an irritating rattle from the unsprung hub at 1500rpm under load (most pronounced in 4th gear), it's been flawless.

 

[Gabe]

I hear great things about the Exedy twin.

Definitely one of the options I'm looking into.

If you got 9 years on the original, why not replace it with an OEM? Seems like it’s done an excellent job, and lasted a long time. It’s hard to beat an OEM on a daily driver.

Thought about it, but want something I can be harder on and not be afraid of breaking it.
The stock clutch has given me some worries after drag racing the car, I'd leave wondering why does it feel so different. It would take a few days before it would feel ok again. Meanwhile the pedal engagement was off and it would feel lighter if I remember right (it's been a while since I raced the car, the clutch being one of the reasons)

That's interesting. What issues are you having?
I've had the McLeod RXT for 8+ years and, apart from an irritating rattle from the unsprung hub at 1500rpm under load (most pronounced in 4th gear), it's been flawless.

Chatter engaging first and especially reverse, and a whine/squeak engaging first sometimes. Supposedly normal. Don't like it. Wish we went with an OEM '13-'14 GT500 clutch in that car.

 

[JimC]

Traded it in and picked up a 2024 GT - black with performance package, active exhaust, and magneride.

 

[GriffX]

FYI, if you have problems engaging the clutch for slow driving e.g. in a parking lot and get chatter, consider to take a look at your gas pedal. I had a jumpy gas pedal and after I fixed it (page 1371 this thread) this clutch chatter was gone.

 

[golkhl]

Installed CV3 style front chin spoiler.

 

[Miker]

A few weeks ago I cleaned my throttle body. Went pretty smooth. It wasn't that dirty so some time in it's lifetime it had probably been done. Ever since then my car has been slower returning to idle. In the last few days it was hanging about 1100 rpm until the car came to a complete stop. I checked to see if the PCV lines were correctly attached and they were. So I did a little reading and found some threads that said a KAM reset after doing anything to the intake tract was useful. Some even said they do it after every other tank of fuel! I did it this morning and after a short drive everything was back to normal. Good times!

 

[WJBertrand]

What is a KAM reset?

 

[crjackson]

KAM stands for Keep Alive Memory and is where all the learned adjustments that the computer has made over time. Most of these are settings for fuel trims and information to help with idle stability. You would want to reset the KAM after fixing a mechanical issue like an air leak or a bad tank of gas. This functions like reloading the tune file but you do not have to go through the whole process.

 

[XJCasper]

KAM stands for Keep Alive Memory and is where all the learned adjustments that the computer has made over time. Most of these are settings for fuel trims and information to help with idle stability. You would want to reset the KAM after fixing a mechanical issue like an air leak or a bad tank of gas. This functions like reloading the tune file but you do not have to go through the whole process.

So....

Literally reload my current tune?

 

[crjackson]

No, literally reset the saved values that the computer has ”Fine Tuned” previously, and stored.

It resets to default values, your computer can start fine tuning from scratch (desirable) as opposed to the slow process of trying to make changes to the previous fine tuning (undesirable).

(Optional)
If you WANT to reload your tune, you can do that too, but it’s unnecessary.

 

[WJBertrand]

Thanks for the explanation. How does one perform a KAM reset then?

 

[Robert Larimer]

Thanks for the explanation. How does one perform a KAM reset then?

The easiest way is to just disconnect your battery for 10 minutes.

 

[eBokey]

Installed an aftermarket head unit with a backup camera. Added the Shaker amps in the trunk with corresponding OE subs.

 

[Gabe]

Thanks for the explanation. How does one perform a KAM reset then?

Some hand-held tuning devices have the option to do this, and you never have to disconnect the battery.