What mods do you regret?

Mikes_BLK_GT

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I respect the honestly about swapping cams, that's rare.

99.9% of S197 owners have no good reason to swap cams. Getting attention because of the idle is not a good reason.

To you it's not a good reason. Others might disagree with you. I don't think it's fair to say what's a good reason or not for others.


I would tend to agree with both of these statements. Ive been on the fence about cams for a long time, if they net me 30rwhp then their worth the 1000 bucks but if I get 5 hp, sound and driveablity issue's like so many others have had then its most definitely not. Some mods havnt worked out well for me but that doesn't mean I regret them, just means I made a mistake. The only reason I regret shorties is because I settled and should not have. I also regret buying the projector headlamps that will never get installed because I'd rather have HID's
 

Bmr4life

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I would tend to agree with both of these statements. Ive been on the fence about cams for a long time, if they net me 30rwhp then their worth the 1000 bucks but if I get 5 hp, sound and driveablity issue's like so many others have had then its most definitely not. Some mods havnt worked out well for me but that doesn't mean I regret them, just means I made a mistake. The only reason I regret shorties is because I settled and should not have. I also regret buying the projector headlamps that will never get installed because I'd rather have HID's

I also agree with both statements. I look at cams like I do the Boss intake. All newly found power is up high, where I am rarely located. Cams do sound great, but only at idle.

The only mod I'll buy for purely track duty is tires and even that is a stretch for someone that may got 2-3 times a year. I won't get a drag suspension, gears, or any high rpm mod. I want my full chart to rise, not just at 6k+ rpms.
 

Racingtheburg

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Any Drag radial for 17 inch wheels or 18's or 20's. Waste of money still no traction.

Any axle back that I have tried (still havent tried mac). Stock mufflers on long tubes and off road H sounded better lol. I now have race bullets and dumps I sounds great! but I may go to 1 chambers for more back pressure.

C&L filters - Cheaper to buy one filter from amsoil that last 100k miles just blow it out every oil change its a dry filter.
 

Bmr4life

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Any Drag radial for 17 inch wheels or 18's or 20's. Waste of money still no traction.

Any axle back that I have tried (still havent tried mac). Stock mufflers on long tubes and off road H sounded better lol. I now have race bullets and dumps I sounds great! but I may go to 1 chambers for more back pressure.

C&L filters - Cheaper to buy one filter from amsoil that last 100k miles just blow it out every oil change its a dry filter.

That's why you think axle backs are a waste. My LT, Cams, with Mac's sounded like a beast. Too bad it sounded 10x faster than it was.

Vid
 
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NastyStang113

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Any Drag radial for 17 inch wheels or 18's or 20's. Waste of money still no traction.

Eh.. YMMV obviously but I didn't mind drag radials on my 20" wheels. They did great for street duty and track duty. I wasn't ever interested in buying a set of drag wheels and slicks. I know my car would be in pieces by now if I ran slicks... LOL Besides low 11s on 20" drag radials isn't all that bad! :thumb2:
 

Grabber

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I don't really have any regrets per say. Maybe the one I can think of was getting 20 inch Chrome Bullitts instead of 18 inch.

I am otherwise glad I skipped bolt-ons and went straight for the blower. Probably would have spent more on the bolt ons than I would have on this blower and not of had as much PAH out of the car, haha.
 

LuckyH

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I would tend to agree with both of these statements. Ive been on the fence about cams for a long time, if they net me 30rwhp then their worth the 1000 bucks but if I get 5 hp, sound and driveablity issue's like so many others have had then its most definitely not.

That's how I feel about cams as well. I'll be happy If i get about 30 more whp with them. Most of the time im just cruising around, and very rarely have the impromptu run from a stoplight. So for me the cams will make the car more fun with how I use the car.
 
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I had cams in my mind for sometime in the future and this is probably the first time I've heard so many people dissing them. What exactly do you guys mean by "driveability" issues? I like to get on it quite a bit but wouldn't really want to sacrafice much bottom end for only i little more power up top.
 

Bmr4life

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I had cams in my mind for sometime in the future and this is probably the first time I've heard so many people dissing them. What exactly do you guys mean by "driveability" issues? I like to get on it quite a bit but wouldn't really want to sacrafice much bottom end for only i little more power up top.

My bottem-end sucked, no other way for me to say it. It sucked less after changing to 4.10's, but then my engine was singing at 2700 rpm when doing 75mph.

There are some cam owners that say their torque increased along the whole power band, but I call BS. They blame my tunes, which were first done by Brenspeed and then Bama. They suggested that I got a dyno tune, but there's no way in hell I'd drop $500+ to tune an NA car with just CAMs, LT's (which don't require a tune) and a CAI.

If I hadn't gotten the new car, I was going to take my CAM's back out. I think the LT's were an awesome upgrade, but I only had them on the car for a couple weeks before the cams were then added. During those weeks, the car was a freaking beast. Chirping off the line with only mild pressure on the gas pedal with the 3.31 gears. Added CAM's and that low end power was all gone.

Another point is cam's without LT's is kind of a waste. The cams are pushing more air out and the LT's help with the evacuation.

Lastly, even Brenspeed says this their own Detroit Rocker NA cams.



and this about the Hot Rod Cams



It doesn't get any clearer than that, straight from one of the best in the business. Detroit Rocker's lose torque on the low end, but less than the Hot Rods (according to brenspeed).


Also, with my Brenspeed tunes my car would die sometimes when going from park to reverse or drive. I tried cleaning the TB several times and even installed a catch can. With the Bama tune, I had none of these issues and the car definitely ran a lot better (faster even). I was even able to set the idle RPMs all the way down to 525 rpm. That's super freaking low and sounded great.
 
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BruceH

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I would tend to agree with both of these statements. Ive been on the fence about cams for a long time, if they net me 30rwhp then their worth the 1000 bucks but if I get 5 hp, sound and driveablity issue's like so many others have had then its most definitely not. Some mods havnt worked out well for me but that doesn't mean I regret them, just means I made a mistake. The only reason I regret shorties is because I settled and should not have. I also regret buying the projector headlamps that will never get installed because I'd rather have HID's

I picked up hp and tq across the board when going to comp 127300 cams. This was with a whipple supercharger. IIRC the numbers were around 25 for both, not just peak but average. The biggest pain wasn't cost, it was my back after swapping out the springs. I spent almost a weekend on the springs vs less than an hour on the cams.
 

Bmr4life

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I picked up hp and tq across the board when going to comp 127300 cams. This was with a whipple supercharger. IIRC the numbers were around 25 for both, not just peak but average. The biggest pain wasn't cost, it was my back after swapping out the springs. I spent almost a weekend on the springs vs less than an hour on the cams.

I don't know much about spring required cams because those are more costly (since I would pay for installation) and I'm sure FI is a whole different animal. I'm also assuming you got a dyno tune.
 

BruceH

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I don't know much about spring required cams because those are more costly (since I would pay for installation) and I'm sure FI is a whole different animal. I'm also assuming you got a dyno tune.

Yes, it was tuned on a dyno. It was driveable without a tune but would sometimes die at low speed coast while braking. The tune fixed that and the vct wot retard was adjusted for more power.

Everybody gives the hot rods a bad rap but I recently saw a 4.6 GT auto with hot rods, cai, and longtubes make 333/302 which I thought was pretty good. The tuner followed frpp's suggested vct retard of 20 degrees at wot. After seeing that I'm pretty sure 127400 cams with their 112 lsa are in my future. The more I learn about cams the more I'm convinced 127300 cams are really designed for power adders and not so much na as advertised.
 

OU81

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The ones that alter posts.

Lmao. True true

Atleast nobody has said delete plates. Thats next on my list...well i already bought a set, waited months for them & had no choice but to throw them away b/c of the quality. Learned a good lesson w/ that. Now 6 months later I'm about to buy a set YET AGAIN, hopefully they make it onto the car this time....
 
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2014_GT

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JLT CAI and Steeda UD pulleys. Not that they weren't effective mods...I just was fooling myself into thinking I'd be happy with bolt-ons and not forced induction.

+1 for me. Also, buying the Diablo instead of the SCT (which I ended up getting anyway) and 18x9's in the rear instead of 18x10's. So, if anyone wants to make the same mistake as me, the pulley's are for sale. :p
 

marcspaz

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After spending a huge amount of money that could have been used to buy something nicer (like a KR), the best advice I can give anyone is this....


Buy a twin-screw supercharger, upgrade your clutch/torque converter, and DON'T RACE.


If you want to race, build a class specific race car... just don't wast a perfectly good Mustang originally built for the streets by gutting it amd messing the damn thing up. If your racing involves late model Mustangs, buy a new chassis from Ford Racing for $15k and build what you want from scatch.
 

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