07stangcs
Undecided
IMO its all in the TUNE and GAS! Quality GAS and quality TUNE should yeild you just as much life as a completly stock motor.
i agree with this to a point. when youre making over 500 to the tire youre asking for trouble because now youre going stress the physical limits of the rotating assembly...namely the rods.IMO its all in the TUNE and GAS! Quality GAS and quality TUNE should yeild you just as much life as a completly stock motor.
i agree with this to a point. when youre making over 500 to the tire youre asking for trouble because now youre going stress the physical limits of the rotating assembly...namely the rods.
You can swap throttle bodies with no tune change??? not to get off topic, just surprising...
This:I'm honestly confused as to why that post led you towards keeping a closed system
If you don't run 500+whp then they don't put a breather on it. Seems like wasted money to me. There are boosted cars running sub 500whp that come stock with a closed system. Yes I know emissions laws. That said if it were blowing up engines then they wouldn't be leaving it closed. Does the GT500 even have a separator stock? Not AFAIK. Just some food for thought.If a car is running enough power, say 500whp+, we will stick a breather cap on it.
Everyone is going to have a different opinion on this matter. I believe that any forced induction car with effectively car the cars life by at least 25-30%. I also believe that how much boost also comes into play with a big part towards tuning. In mechanic school, my instructor stated that when you force more air in, you have to shoot more gas. All of that extra gas must combust and if it doesn't, you with cause added strain on the motor. Another helpful tip would be added crankcase pressure by means of blow-by. Added pressure in the crankcase causes the pressure to jump to eventually bend or break the rods in our cars. It also causes the pressure to build to break the block. Since, I am running the Edelbrock Street Kit, I am thinking to hopefully get 50k miles. If I get more than that, great! If not, it will be motor building time.
If you want stock reliabilty than don't modify the car, any power adder is going to reduce the life of the engine. I have seen with my own eyes a car that is driven and driven hard with a lot of drag strip passes put down well over 500 rwhp on stock internals.
I believe you even saw mine put down 569/489 corrected. I have over 100 passes on it and it's still running strong. Although, it could blow up at anytime and I know it. But it could blow up at 450whp also. I have decided to run my car at the power I want and get the suspension worked out. When and if the engine fails, I will have the chassis sorted out ahead of time and then build a forged shortblock. Maybe that's putting the cart before the horse. But if it aint broke, run it till it is and then build it better.
There are just way to many variables to get any useful information out of this thread.
1) Driving habits
2) TUNE
3) Maintenance
4) TUNE
5) Type of PA
6) TUNE
7) Luck of Individual
8) TUNE