Marc S build version 6.0

Mike K

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That confirms it I'm going with a carbed small block in mine! That is just sick and there is so much more room.
 

Department Of Boost

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I’m really surprised that it only runs -16 line from the heads to the radiator. I would have thought that it would have been set up to move more coolant. What does it have for a water pump? What size is the lower (return) radiator hose?
 

UltraKla$$ic

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[sarcasm]Definitely looks like a simple install with a 69-piece Craftmans set anybody could do in their driveway.[/sarcasm]:crazy::shock:

OH MY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is unbelievably awesome Marc! I'm intrigued at just the fabbing of the front radiator support and how well that turned out!
 

panama

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Absolutely stunning. I love epic build threads to live vicariously through. Can't wait to see some video of you running laps at 9,0000 rpm blowing flames through the corners.
 

psfracer

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The two large holes in the firewall (where the heater core used to be)---you don't need to cover those up? I had to with some .100 aluminum plates that I fabbed up to pass tech.

This makes me realize how big these mustangs are vs the older 65-70s. That motor looks small in there! It also looks like you have the engine as low and far back as possible, how did you do that? What K-member are you using?
 

Marc s

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The two large holes in the firewall (where the heater core used to be)---you don't need to cover those up? I had to with some .100 aluminum plates that I fabbed up to pass tech.

This makes me realize how big these mustangs are vs the older 65-70s. That motor looks small in there! It also looks like you have the engine as low and far back as possible, how did you do that? What K-member are you using?

I built an aluminum plate to cover the heater core holes but I haven't installed it yet.

I bought a BMR K member with the small block mounts. However, the dry sump pan interferred with the rack and pinion. I ended up modifying the K member by moving the engine mounts back but I didn't lower them. I also had to lower the rack mounts to gain the clearance that I needed. Even with mods to the K member, the carb is right against the hood. I will end up with a scoop or cowl.
 

3vstang

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Damn, this is one hell of a build, nice work man! Im very impressed with your work on the radiator support, very clean.

I cant wait to hear this thing start up.
 

Germeezy3

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Have you changed your mind about driving this car on the street yet?
 

Marc s

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Made progress on the wiring today and I just about finished it. Mounted the battery shut off switch in the "road race" legal location. Wired all of the lights, ignition, fuel level, tach, and fan. I still have to run a power lead to the wipers.

I also got the dry sump tank mounted and the oil temp gauge hooked up.

I changed my mind on the Jerico and took the advice of a few Sprint Cup teams. I'm having a G Force GF4A built with a set back Long billet shifter, carbon fiber shift rods, and an internal oil pump. This trans has straight cut gears and is equiped with dog rings because it is designed to be upshifted and downshifted without the use of the clutch. It is also rated for a 1050 horsepower. The down side is, it doesn't have provisions for a speed sensor so my speedometer will not function. I'm going to call Autometer and see if I can get a custom GPS speedo made.

I should have the transmission in 2-3 weeks and then I can move onto the headers. I decided to build triple stepped equal length headers with 1 7/8" to 2" to 2 1/8" primary tubes with 3 1/2" collectors. I'm also not going to re-use my mid-mounted dual in/dual out Flowmaster. I believe that it is too restrictive so I am going to use dual mid-mounted 3" race bullets with an X pipe. It will be loud as hell and hopefully, I won't get black flagged for excessive DB's.

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Marc s

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I found out today that my transmission will ship on the 20th. I can't wait to get it in the car so I can get started on the headers.
 

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