psfracer
billy badass
F the track, 3 honk highway FTW
Yeah I don't know about that. Even if you were to do everything right, shit still happens. No thanks.
F the track, 3 honk highway FTW
No you need C-Clip eliminators, or you can go with 9 inch rear end or you could go with the 9 inch tube ends. On the 9 inch, the axle flange is bolted to the axle tube in four places. Even if the axle breaks, its not going anywhere.
F the track, 3 honk highway FTW
all it takes is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and time . good luck
Yeah I don't know about that. Even if you were to do everything right, shit still happens. No thanks.
Paxton novi 2200 now ran 9.64 139 1/4 i know little more work is needed on light and stall is too tight once stall corrected should dip 9.40's -9.50's lucky test and tune with my fire suite gloves helment 5p harness with 6 point roll bar they let me pass.. bad ass lil 3 valve street car Kurgan has good tune on this thing!
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
Wear the 5 point harness, even on the street--roll bar padding anywhere where your head can hit the bar.
That will minimize it somewhat, but the danger is very real.
I would just about rather do it this way. Just for the simple fact of not turning it into an uncomfortable street car, that's not really a racecar..jmo.UPR's 2010 GT 3V has run 9.90 @ 133 on drag radials and it is a really nice cruiser. No weight has been taken out and it still has all of the factory options. It does not have a rollcage, which would be required if you want to race all of the time, but a rollcage would reduce the streetability factor.
Don't get me wrong, I'm all about doing it "the right way" (my 25.2 True Street car with chute and all...) but if good street manners are your goal, don't make it a racecar.
Our GT has a JDM stroker, a Roush TVS2300, the factory automatic (with a converter upgrade), UPR Pro Street suspension, and DRs.