9.99 & quicker 1/4 mile

JPO8GT

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No you need C-Clip eliminators, or you can go with 9 inch rear end or you could go with the 9 inch tube ends. On the 9 inch, the axle flange is bolted to the axle tube in four places. Even if the axle breaks, its not going anywhere.

I think I will end up doing the housing ends.. Moser part#7705 specific to 2005 up.. with my current build plans doing a 4r70w trans I am looking at 4.10's in the future and would do the housing ends at same time.
im sure you could modify to accept eliminators but I am not finding them for 2005 up specific.
 
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wazslow

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Its hard to make the car multi purpose street/race if you start getting serious. The faster you go the more safety stuff you need which takes away from the street car aspect. You want the chassis to work correctly then you put in solid bushings in all of the suspension pieces and now it rides like crap and makes noice etc. One thing just leads to another. I used to drive my low 8 second car on the street quite a bit. Towards the end when I had it it was even 25.5'd and I still drove it on the street. Could kill a set of 325 drag radials real quick on the street. LOL

http://www.streetfire.net/video/streetfires-best-burnout-gonedragracingcom_444804.htm


[SFIRE]streetfires-best-burnout-gonedragracingcom_444804.htm[/SFIRE]


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JPO8GT

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Paxton novi 2200 now ran 9.64 139 1/4 i know little more work is needed on light and stall is too tight once stall corrected should dip 9.40's -9.50's lucky test and tune with my fire suite gloves helment 5p harness with 6 point roll bar they let me pass.. bad ass lil 3 valve street car Kurgan has good tune on this thing!

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fdjizm

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Yeah I don't know about that. Even if you were to do everything right, shit still happens. No thanks.


Ouch, idiots for street racing, and the idiot that ran the red light and slammed into them. cluster fuck!
 

JPO8GT

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Where there's a will and $ theres a way..
But on an good not humid Georgia run condition any thing is possible.
My dyno numbers are 900 rwhp with a lil 2200 right conditions and practice and once my converter is stalled correctly this car is hitting a home run... Its built...



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05moneypit

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Paxton novi 2200 now ran 9.64 139 1/4 i know little more work is needed on light and stall is too tight once stall corrected should dip 9.40's -9.50's lucky test and tune with my fire suite gloves helment 5p harness with 6 point roll bar they let me pass.. bad ass lil 3 valve street car Kurgan has good tune on this thing!

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

GREAT PASS MAN!! That is getting it with a Novi. Congrats!

Lee
 

JPO8GT

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Yes it was a rush I'm just getting some time behind wheel whats really great is its a premium loaded car leather heated & power seats shaker stereo system even has selectable interior color ambient lighting + HID headlights and yes its a 3 valve. I still have pulleys in boost and a converter change that should improve these times & mph. Motor is built ported heads + blower cams either way for a loaded full interior s197 its hauling the mail :D
Novi 2200 is a kick azz blower i never knew it was as capable as it is...
And i drove this car to and from track on drag radials..

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19COBRA93

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I'm planning on running a 9.9 or better with my car, and it's a street car. I'm not planning on making it NHRA legal though, so it's not something I'll be able to do all the time. My plan was option #2 from above, nice comfortable car with a lot of HP. I've still got a ways to go though to hit that 9.9, but it'll get there hopefully without sacrificing much.
 

Sharad

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UPR's 2010 GT 3V has run 9.90 @ 133 on drag radials and it is a really nice cruiser. No weight has been taken out and it still has all of the factory options. It does not have a rollcage, which would be required if you want to race all of the time, but a rollcage would reduce the streetability factor.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about doing it "the right way" (my 25.2 True Street car with chute and all...) but if good street manners are your goal, don't make it a racecar.

Our GT has a JDM stroker, a Roush TVS2300, the factory automatic (with a converter upgrade), UPR Pro Street suspension, and DRs.
 

JPO8GT

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My 6 point has swing out removable door bars remove the door bars for street and the car is just as comfortable for driver and passenger as it is without roll bar.
There's add on kit to my 6 point available to make it legal to 8.50 the swing outs are legal to 8.50.

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Doug M

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Good luck man! I think Billy's car [05 stroker] has been awesome to watch! He is running 10.1-10.0 on 20 inch street tires. and will easily run into the 9's with a different tire setup.
 

retfr8flyr

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I have had race cars, that I drove on the street, in the past and it just doesn't work that well. Parts that will hold up at the track don't work well on the street.

IMHO I think a low 10 second ride is about as fast as you can build a car to run and still be able to enjoy it on the street. All the new technology is what makes this possible. In the old days a 10 second car was extremely fast and barley streetable, now it's the new normal.


Earl
 

05stroker

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The cage is the only thing I am not looking forward to on the street. Right now I have a 5 pt with removable door bar which is good to 10.00. After that I will need a 10 pt or 12 pt which will make street driving a little more dangerous riding around with no helmet. Up side is, if I roll and don't hit my head on the bar and kill myself, then the bar did its job.
 

psfracer

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Wear the 5 point harness, even on the street--roll bar padding anywhere where your head can hit the bar.

That will minimize it somewhat, but the danger is very real.
 

05stroker

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Wear the 5 point harness, even on the street--roll bar padding anywhere where your head can hit the bar.

That will minimize it somewhat, but the danger is very real.

^^^ and that where the street comfort goes out the door. LOL

5 point is fine at the track, but even the stock seat belt is more then I like on the road. I do wear it though.
 

Doug M

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UPR's 2010 GT 3V has run 9.90 @ 133 on drag radials and it is a really nice cruiser. No weight has been taken out and it still has all of the factory options. It does not have a rollcage, which would be required if you want to race all of the time, but a rollcage would reduce the streetability factor.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about doing it "the right way" (my 25.2 True Street car with chute and all...) but if good street manners are your goal, don't make it a racecar.

Our GT has a JDM stroker, a Roush TVS2300, the factory automatic (with a converter upgrade), UPR Pro Street suspension, and DRs.
I would just about rather do it this way. Just for the simple fact of not turning it into an uncomfortable street car, that's not really a racecar..jmo.
 

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