Finally get my own "KABOOM" thread!

[petersonb]

UPDATE 1/17/14

Wow, it feels like it's been a crazy couple of days. I was really undecided on getting another block or trying to use the one I currently have. After going and spending the time with the block (and about 85 photos later), I had decided to give it a go -- how bad could it be, right?!

I had decided to document everything (hence, the 85 photos) and put a blip on someone's radar if they were to ever come across a RFXE-6015 block and try to look something up. There's really not much information available on this casting number.

So, I had decided to use this block, run it for about 20-30k miles, then tear it down and assess damage. I sent Manuel (Lito) an email, "[Hey, using this block..]" etc. Long story short, he says, "NOOO" to using a sleeveless block. To all of you reading this who know anything about motors, that's a no-brainer, I'm sure. To me, however, noob.

(Btw, shout out to Lito for saving my ass. <100 mi and I'd be right back to where I am now)

I decided to go with this other Teksid block, which was 4hr drive away, but had a casting number of RF-F2LE-6015-HE, which I have tracked down to a 1995 Mark VIII, which were all aluminum Teksids, from what I could tell. (Fast forward, I have the block; definitely aluminum)

I had the day off today, so I drove to Texas to get the "new block" (as I'm calling it). After getting it, I'M SO HAPPY I DECIDED TO GET THIS BLOCK INSTEAD OF THE RFXE. If you are reading this, considering using an RFXE block, please stop. Seriously.

Below are some photos of a few of the differences.

A list of a few of the discrepancies:

"New Block" has...
Sleeved cylinders
NO handwriting
Different (i.e. PROPER) format casting number (usually RF-_ _ _ _-6015-_ _)
Date code stamped in two places
NO numbers/letters on the studs (old block had "325" on one of them)

Now, pictures:

OLD BLOCK (Not sleeved cylinders):

NEW BLOCK (sleeved cylinders):

OLD BLOCK (handwriting):

NEW BLOCK (NO handwriting):

OLD BLOCK (Casting number, weird format):

NEW BLOCK (Casting number, common format):

OLD BLOCK (Date stamped ONLY here -- Front):

NEW BLOCK (Date stamped in two places -- Front and rear/top):

OLD BLOCK (Numbers on studs):

NEW BLOCK (NO numbers on studs):

I will try keep this thread to the build, but THIS LINK goes to the thread I've started to discuss the oddities of this RFXE block. It's weird, and no one so far has been able to tell me very much about it.

Also, the rust appeared to only be on the surface of the piston. A good bit of it came off quickly with just a rag and WD-40 while looking at it in the parking lot upon pickup. Should be good with a 0.020" over bore (it's standard bore right now).

I should have the rotating assembly back, balanced, mid next week, and will drop the block off Monday to get the cylinders bored and the main caps line bored to match the block.

Thanks for reading!

BP

 

[petersonb]

1/21/14 UPDATE

A few more parts in, that's all. Still discussing the "Mystery Block" here.

Brother's still working on his car (almost 3 weeks now!!! UGH). At least it's adding on some accessories between times I see it. I really appreciate my fuel injected vehicles, but something about 3 carbs says, "I'm bad."

I'd really like to get around to tearing my car down (and I really want to see/share the carnage photos), but I'm not willing to do it with the car in the yard.

Once it's torn down, I'll be able to sell a couple things, and I'll be able to buy other goodies with that money.

-Stock crank, assuming it's good
-127022 Mutha Thumper Cams (accounted for)
-Spec Stage 3+ 10 spline clutch
-Spec billet aluminum 6 bolt flywheel

(They'll be up in the classifieds once ready, but this is a little foreshadow)

Here are some quick photos of the goodies which came in today:


ARP main cap studs

Spec Stage 3+ 26 spline clutch with Spec billet steel 8 bolt flywheel

Engine oil cooler

(filter side)

(engine side)

(10 pass oil cooler -- bottle for size comparison)

MMR engine mount for teksid --> 05+

Windage tray

 

[petersonb]

Also, found out I'm going to be stationed at Hill AFB in Salt Lake City today, so.... hopefully my build is done before I get orders?

....yeah, I know. I'm starting to prep to move all this sh*t 1,400 miles.

"Hurry up and wait"

 

[petersonb]

UPDATE 2/6/14

Been wasting a lot of time waiting on the other car to get out of the way, but it finally has been moved out, and we moved the Mustang in last night!

Today was not a sunny, pleasant day. High was in the 20s and it snowed almost all day.

I went into town and filled the propane tanks, and this is probably the best tool I had today.

I took the throttle body and supercharger off first. Everything was coated in oil, as it usually is (in need of a catch can?), but it was chocolate milk this time.

I noticed ice in the tube going into the supercharger.

And then I noticed some damage on the rotors of the supercharger ....
(Photos taken from same position, just different focus)

I then removed the Department of Boost GT450 manifold, which had "chocolate milk" in it, too.

And from the intake, I removed two pieces of metal. One looks like a piece of a piston ring, and it attracted by a magnet. The other looks like some piece of cast something, but is not attracted by magnet. Thoughts?

Piston ring?

Other, non magnetic piece

Both, shown with gauge for reference.

I tried to get as much chocolate milk out of the intake as possible, then cleaned it up a bit. I really like how things like this look! All the welding and stuff ... Does anyone know if the production versions of the GT450 look this "hand built" ? Mine is a pre-production prototype, so I'm not sure.

I checked the oil, for fun, and it's showing very full. Probably full of pistons and rods!!! And coolant.

First taste of carnage:
Besides the two pieces in the intake...

Autolite HT0 spark plugs...

Correct shape:

INcorrect shape:

What sensor is this, located center of the photo, 2/3rds up from the bottom, circular object? Cam position sensor is on the front, right?

And what is this thing? Vacuum line, and some sensor, and another hose to something....

Anyways, tonight I got as far as pulling the cams. They're wrapped and ready for the next owner!

Today's progress:

Before:

After:

Going to try to get the heads off tomorrow. I should be able to see the extent of the damage then!

BP

 

[lethe]

Hard to say what those two small pieces are from

That sensor is the vct solenoid.

 

[petersonb]

That sensor is the vct solenoid.

Cool. Thanks!

 

[petersonb]

PARTIAL UPDATE 2/7/14

Got the car on stands today, so I could get under the car and take the headers off. Today's tool of the day is the Sawsall. Haha

I got under the car with a flashlight and sure enough, [at least] one hole on each side. Kind of hard to tell in the photos, but each is between 1 and 2 silver dollar's size.

Driver's Side

Passenger's Side

...Now, to get those headers off .... May just end up pulling the whole motor out today. Will update later.


BP

 

[skwerl]

Yup, looks like you windowed it. Are you building a replacement short block or just buying one? I will highly recommend sticking with an aluminum block for the replacement. Throwing an extra 70 lbs on the front end will make a huge difference in handling and you won't be able to get rid of the weight later. The two biggest suppliers of built aluminum short blocks will be JDM or FRPP. FRPP will have the better warranty and will actually honor warranty claims but JDM has Kellogg cranks (or at least mine does). If you're not going over 600hp then the FRPP Aluminator would be my choice.

 

[petersonb]

Yup, looks like you windowed it. Are you building a replacement short block or just buying one? I will highly recommend sticking with an aluminum block for the replacement. Throwing an extra 70 lbs on the front end will make a huge difference in handling and you won't be able to get rid of the weight later. The two biggest suppliers of built aluminum short blocks will be JDM or FRPP. FRPP will have the better warranty and will actually honor warranty claims but JDM has Kellogg cranks (or at least mine does). If you're not going over 600hp then the FRPP Aluminator would be my choice.

I'm working on the post of yesterday's work, and taking today off from the car.

Yes, it's windowed pretty good. Pics to follow later.

I have an aluminum '96 Teksid block I'm using, Cobra forged crank, 03/04 Cobra forged Manley rods, .020 over Manley forged pistons with Total Seal moly rings.

I'm hoping it'll be able to hold power pretty well. I know people put a lot of power to late-90s Teksids (800+ ?), and I see lots of people putting 700-800 on stock Terminators. The Manley pistons should be fine, too. They are still the most expensive part I've purchased.

I'm aiming to be around 600rwhp at the end of this project.


BP

 

[skwerl]

You'll be fine. I know a guy running 9's on a stock Terminator motor with a TVS blower.

 

[petersonb]

You'll be fine. I know a guy running 9's on a stock Terminator motor with a TVS blower.

A little birdie told me there's about to be a 2013 TVS for sale, and reasonably priced.

.....tempting.....

 

[petersonb]

UPDATE 2/9/13

Two days ago, I got my first look at the holes in the block. I also managed to get the transmission out, and then called it a day.

Check out the grime! I thought I needed a new slave cylinder ..... Lol

Exhaust didn't have flanges, so I had to cut them. Thus, the Sawsall was the "tool of the day" that day.

The engine bay looked the same at the end of the day, but at least now I could see down to the floor with the transmission out!

NEXT DAY

Beginning of Day 3

Unbolted the hood, prepping to yank the motor

Engine is out!

CARNAGE:

Driver's side:

Passenger's side:

Empty engine bay

Engine without exhaust

The head took a little damage

Windage tray caught the piston; probably saved the oil pan.

Piston ring hanging on the pickup when I dropped the oil pan

The oil pan was very full.....

.....but just turned out to be about half coolant

Anyone want to buy a windage tray? 7/10 condition

Most rod bearings looked good for 86k miles, but some show more wear than I'd like. Oh well.

My box of pieces pulled out of the oil pan (still many pieces left, but this is what I could easily scoop out)

And how the car is sitting now, at the end of Day 3

 

[Timmbo]

Painfully all to familiar for me. Luckily my heads cleaned up and escaped major damage. Hopefully the same goes for you. Good luck on the build!

 

[YoungBlood]

Damn, that's some carnage haha. Good luck on the build, and moving out to Hill AFB I'm located about an hour from there. Utah ain't any warmer than where you're at!

 

[lethe]

Thats some carnage alright!

 

[JoshK]

Just going over some of the posts from this thread again. This is a pic of your "new block" from above, where you were showing it had no writing. Is this actually a welded repair done to the block?

 

[lethe]

^ Never noticed that. It does look like welds though. That seems like a odd place that would need a repair.

 

[05stroker]

^ Never noticed that. It does look like welds though. That seems like a odd place that would need a repair.

Maybe a crack from freezing.

 

[petersonb]

Just going over some of the posts from this thread again. This is a pic of your "new block" from above, where you were showing it had no writing. Is this actually a welded repair done to the block?

Yes

^ Never noticed that. It does look like welds though. That seems like a odd place that would need a repair.

Maybe a crack from freezing.

Bingo. Prev owner said it ran another 30k miles after. He said it was a small leak that took a long time to locate. Since it was on top of the valley, They just dumped a bunch of weld down over it to make sure it wouldn't leak ever again. Mission accomplished, I'd say ... Haha.

To the best of my knowledge, it's just a coolant passage on the other side of that spot, not cylinder or load bearing stuff underneath. Thoughts?


BP

 

[05stroker]

Bingo. Prev owner said it ran another 30k miles after. He said it was a small leak that took a long time to locate. Since it was on top of the valley, They just dumped a bunch of weld down over it to make sure it wouldn't leak ever again.

Why did he say he was selling it?