Roadrace To Drag Race Project-Lend A Hand

05stroker

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Yeah, I just checked what your goals were and decided to step it up a few tenths. Just to be a dick.:roflmao: j/k

And my car won't be nice like yours. Trick, but not show car nice. It will be pretty gutted and "race car".

Well I only wanted 9.6x last year and ended up with a 9.3x soooooo... :kma:
 

Department Of Boost

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I did some gearing calcs today. I'm leaning more and more toward a T400. If I run a 3.31 and a 29.5" tire I will be able to cruise down the freeway just fine. IDK if it will 60ft though.

Worse case I can always add a Gear Vendors OD and a shorter gear.

So who makes bad ass bulletproof T400's?
 

psfracer

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If you are in So Cal, I would look into Mike's Transmissions in Palmdale/Lancaster. PSCA sponsor.
 

Department Of Boost

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If you are in So Cal, I would look into Mike's Transmissions in Palmdale/Lancaster. PSCA sponsor.

I couldn't be much further away. I'm right outside of Deeetroit!

Good heads up though. Unless I get something local shipping is shipping. Any advice on what I'm looking for? You mentioned something about a blanket and a scatter shield earlier? I really only want to do this once. Are there better aftermarket type of case castings? Can you explain to me what shifting options there are? A manual valve body sounds like I will be shifting it all the time (on the street). Is that right? Is there a setup where you can just put it in "D" on the street and shift it like a manual valve body when racing with nothing left on the table as far as performance goes?

And from what I understand trans temp is everything. Especially with a brake. They have a pump built in right? I don't need to run a pump to the cooler do I? Can you run a trans cooler that is too big?

How would you set it up if it was your car?

Thanks
 

05moneypit

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So who makes bad ass bulletproof T400's?

.............you are well aware nothing is bullet proof.

Lot's of good guys on TH400 but my vote is.

Abruzzi transmission. Warren Ohio 330-369-1707 He races what he builds.

My buddy has one of his TH400 in a 3400lb 8 second Pontiac. 3rd season on it and zero issues. He built the converter for it also.
 

Department Of Boost

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.............you are well aware nothing is bullet proof.
Yep, absolutely. That's why I aim for bulletproof. It seems whenever I decide to go for "good enough" I end up wearing it out, breaking it or replacing it later.

Lot's of good guys on TH400 but my vote is.

Abruzzi transmission. Warren Ohio 330-369-1707 He races what he builds.

My buddy has one of his TH400 in a 3400lb 8 second Pontiac. 3rd season on it and zero issues. He built the converter for it also.
3 seasons sounds like a winner to me! Shoot, 1 season between rebuilds and I would be happy. And he is only 3hrs away.

And I've alawys liked the "We race what we sell" thing.

Thanks for the heads up.:thumb:
 

dysan

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I believe a reverse manual valve body is one that the shift pattern is P, R, N, 1, 2, 3 when pulling the shifter towards the rear of the car. I have a forward pattern manual valve body in my 4R70W which is P, R, N, 3, 2, 1.
 

Department Of Boost

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I believe a reverse manual valve body is one that the shift pattern is P, R, N, 1, 2, 3 when pulling the shifter towards the rear of the car. I have a forward pattern manual valve body in my 4R70W which is P, R, N, 3, 2, 1.

Are you shifting yours all the time driving around on the street? I'm guessing you are, I don't see a "D" in there. Not that I mind, I know anything but manuals. I can shift it all the time if that is what needs to be done.

So you are banging your shifter forward for upshifts? That seems more natural to me (without ever having done it). It seems like it would be weird pulling it back toward you for upshifts. If I'm going forward I want to shift forward, LOL! IDK. I need to drive a few cars set up like this I think.
 

psfracer

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I couldn't be much further away. I'm right outside of Deeetroit!

Good heads up though. Unless I get something local shipping is shipping. Any advice on what I'm looking for? You mentioned something about a blanket and a scatter shield earlier? I really only want to do this once. Are there better aftermarket type of case castings? Can you explain to me what shifting options there are? A manual valve body sounds like I will be shifting it all the time (on the street). Is that right? Is there a setup where you can just put it in "D" on the street and shift it like a manual valve body when racing with nothing left on the table as far as performance goes?

And from what I understand trans temp is everything. Especially with a brake. They have a pump built in right? I don't need to run a pump to the cooler do I? Can you run a trans cooler that is too big?

How would you set it up if it was your car?

Thanks

Ok, try ATI Performance products as well. I have been running their PG with super case for 2 1/2 years and the trans fluid still looks new. I couldn't be happier with this trans.

The one you would want (TH400) is here: http://www.atiracing.com/products/trans/400/index.htm

Notice all of the options, the super case (which is SFI rated and eliminates the need for trans blankets and trans shields/bell housing shield). There are first gear options (once again, if you truly are going to be 1400 hp @ 3400 lbs, a 2.10 first gear would be my choice, especially with the whipple).

You can get forward or reverse pattern, up to you. I have a reverse pattern, which means you shift forward. The right shifter will also make all the difference for you. You can also set it up for an air shifter if you want.

For street driving, you can't go with too big of a trans cooler in my opinion. As you already know, heat is the enemy, and that is especially true with high stall autos. Trans temp will go up pretty quick when you are on the brake also, try not to be on the break for more then 2 seconds or so.

Just for reference, here is the exact trans I run in my car, so you can see what features hold up easily to 1100 hp or so. Note, I always go overkill for reliability sake: part#200640SC

http://www.atiracing.com/products/trans/pg/straight-cut-proglide.htm

Will all of this being said, I have also heard very good things about the trans that Moneypit mentions.
 

dysan

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Are you shifting yours all the time driving around on the street? I'm guessing you are, I don't see a "D" in there. Not that I mind, I know anything but manuals. I can shift it all the time if that is what needs to be done.

So you are banging your shifter forward for upshifts? That seems more natural to me (without ever having done it). It seems like it would be weird pulling it back toward you for upshifts. If I'm going forward I want to shift forward, LOL! IDK. I need to drive a few cars set up like this I think.

Yup, I shift my auto all the time since there is no "D" and I like it that way. Still keeps a bit of the manual trans feel just without the clutch.

And yes, I bang my ratchet shifter forward to shift (B&M ratchet). I like the ratchet shifter but at some point I am thinking of putting in a shift solenoid for when I am racing for consistency since the majority of cars I race against have every device possible in them. I have heard nothing but great things about the shifters from this place....

http://www.precisionperformance.com/home.htm

They can set up their shifter in whatever configuration you want/need.
 

Department Of Boost

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How does an air shifter work/what does it do? I've run them on drag bikes. In that application you push a button on the bar and it shifts.
 

Dubstep Shep

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How does an air shifter work/what does it do? I've run them on drag bikes. In that application you push a button on the bar and it shifts.


Isn't that basically a sequential with an air actuated shift lever?

That would be badass for a road race car hehe.
 

Department Of Boost

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Isn't that basically a sequential with an air actuated shift lever?

That would be badass for a road race car hehe.

A sequential in a car doesn't need a air shifter, just bump the level. On a drag bike when you launch you can't get your feet up to the pegs/shifter fast enough so you need a hand controlled button to make the first couple of shifts. If you could get your feet up there fast enough you could just use your standard "electric cutout" shifter and actuate it with your foot.
 

Dubstep Shep

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A sequential in a car doesn't need a air shifter, just bump the level. On a drag bike when you launch you can't get your feet up to the pegs/shifter fast enough so you need a hand controlled button to make the first couple of shifts. If you could get your feet up there fast enough you could just use your standard "electric cutout" shifter and actuate it with your foot.


True.

That said, how much faster would you be if you had paddle shifters controlling a sequential transmission? You would never have to move your hands off the steering wheel.
 

AnotherS197GT

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Dude, if you need any help at all, please drop me a PM. I'm only 20-30 minutes away and I'd love to lend a hand!
 

Department Of Boost

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True.

That said, how much faster would you be if you had paddle shifters controlling a sequential transmission? You would never have to move your hands off the steering wheel.

Is there such a thing as a 1300hp/8sec sequential trans? I doubt it.

I'm guessing if it were even a small advantage you would see paddle shifters on drag cars.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Is there such a thing as a 1300hp/8sec sequential trans? I doubt it.



I'm guessing if it were even a small advantage you would see paddle shifters on drag cars.


Oh I'm not talking about using it for drag racing. I was talking about road and track racing lol.
 

Department Of Boost

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Oh I'm not talking about using it for drag racing. I was talking about road and track racing lol.

Then you are in the wrong thread!!!:roflmao:

There is a sequential trans conversion for the T-56's out there. They use a "bump stick" like a Rally car though, not paddles. Get your wallet out.



Now get out of here with your ghay azz roadracing stuff.:omfg: This is a drag racing thread!:boobies:
 

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