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05stroker

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I think I have an intake leak here and that is why I still have a bank to bank difference. I have ordered a set of these to help with the issue.

After having my JPC intake ceramic coated it was distorted a bit and when I bolted it down it seemed to seal. I used rtv and a paper gasket between the delete plates and the intake and rtv to seal the gasket to the delete plate on the bottom. I did not use anything on the seal between the delete plate gasket and the head though. I think this is where my leak is. Vacuum is lower then normal and I have a bank to bank difference of a full point on the A/F gauge. Anyhow this is where I am at for now. I will post up after I have the new gaskets here. I think I will need to port them same as the other parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-OEM-RH-LH-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-GASKETS-4-6L-5-4L-/261468719319
 
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crownaviation

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I would just weld the delete plates to the intake and then have the bottom surfaced if you can. Heat from welding will probably distort them but take away half of the potential for leaks and screwing with an extra set of gaskets.

Does your JPC intake have the gasket groove machined into them like OEM?

And won't your vacuum be lower anyway with your new setup?
 

05stroker

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I would just weld the delete plates to the intake and then have the bottom surfaced if you can. Heat from welding will probably distort them but take away half of the potential for leaks and screwing with an extra set of gaskets.

Does your JPC intake have the gasket groove machined into them like OEM?

And won't your vacuum be lower anyway with your new setup?

1. I thought about that also. I still need a good gasket for the head side though.

2. No it is flat and uses a paper gasket.

3. Why would the vacuum be lower?
 

crownaviation

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1. I thought about that also. I still need a good gasket for the head side though.

2. No it is flat and uses a paper gasket.

3. Why would the vacuum be lower?

The delete plates OEM converted or aftermarket? The OEM conversions are nice for the gasket grooves but I know you went thru a ton of work on those to match them etc.

Vacuum.. duh.. I was thinking backwards like you had more vacuum (higher). Late and I was around paint fumes all day
 

05stroker

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The delete plates OEM converted or aftermarket? The OEM conversions are nice for the gasket grooves but I know you went thru a ton of work on those to match them etc.

Vacuum.. duh.. I was thinking backwards like you had more vacuum (higher). Late and I was around paint fumes all day

I have the Steeda billet delete plates that are ported to match my JPC sheet metal intake and they used to use the factory style rubber gaskets on the bottom, but after porting, you can fit the factory gasket in my ports. They now use a paper gasket with rtv between them. They are sealed the. There are bolts that where put in right after the two were mated. My concern is the joint between the delete plate and the head that now has to use a paper gasket and rtv on one side due to the ports being bigger then the factory gaskets and not having rtv on the bottom so I could remove it when needed.
 

Department Of Boost

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Have you checked for vacuum leaks with carb clean or ether/starting fluid?

If it were me I would want to weld the delete plates to the intake then cut big fat/nasty O-ring groves to seal the intake to the heads. I hate paper gaskets.
 

05stroker

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Have you checked for vacuum leaks with carb clean or ether/starting fluid?

If it were me I would want to weld the delete plates to the intake then cut big fat/nasty O-ring groves to seal the intake to the heads. I hate paper gaskets.

I did with brake cleaner, and noticed no change in idle. I could try the ether, that would let me know for sure.
 

crownaviation

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I vote ether.. just have a fire extinguisher handy lol.. please o please

What is your vac? Holding steady? Does it change at all when the car is up at temp? Fluctuate? Does not take much to cause major problems.

I do love the fact you have dual wideband tho. I am going to order another one this week meeza thinks
 

05stroker

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I vote ether.. just have a fire extinguisher handy lol.. please o please

What is your vac? Holding steady? Does it change at all when the car is up at temp? Fluctuate? Does not take much to cause major problems.

I do love the fact you have dual wideband tho. I am going to order another one this week meeza thinks

I have two fire extinguishers in my garage. I will do the ether test outside though.

Vac seems to vary from -6.5 to -8. it was only at -10 before though on the last motor IIRC.

I think Bank to bank WBs are the best money I have ever spent on my car. I have the wires on a toggle switch so that after I log the two banks and am happy with them, I flip the switch and log bank 1 a/f on analog 1 and Boost on analog 2.
 

travelers

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What you can do with the paper gasket is rtv it to the intake then put a thin layer of rtv on the other side and let it setup. Then it acts like a soft gasket, with it already cured it will allow you to remove it easily. I did that on valve cover gaskets so I could check valve lash.
 

05stroker

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What you can do with the paper gasket is rtv it to the intake then put a thin layer of rtv on the other side and let it setup. Then it acts like a soft gasket, with it already cured it will allow you to remove it easily. I did that on valve cover gaskets so I could check valve lash.

What I did was seal the paper gasket from the delete plate to the intake with bolts and let it sit for several days. Then I put the gasket from the delete plate to the head on with sealant from the delete plate to the gasket. Then I installed the intake within 10 minutes and tightened the bolts down till they stopped.
 

crownaviation

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You want a set of OEM plates with the grooves for the green OEM gaskets? You would have to port them to match your heads and intake tho but you would have a great seal on the head. You could weld them to the intake.

I will send them to you if you want to think about it.. free. I think I even have a set of green OEM gaskets too
 

travelers

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What I did was seal the paper gasket from the delete plate to the intake with bolts and let it sit for several days. Then I put the gasket from the delete plate to the head on with sealant from the delete plate to the gasket. Then I installed the intake within 10 minutes and tightened the bolts down till they stopped.

Sounds like you shouldn't have any leaks. What rtv are you using? We use black on every thing except on the crab spacer base gasket to make sure its sealed to the top plate. We use high temp red for that
 
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05stroker

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You want a set of OEM plates with the grooves for the green OEM gaskets? You would have to port them to match your heads and intake tho but you would have a great seal on the head. You could weld them to the intake.

I will send them to you if you want to think about it.. free. I think I even have a set of green OEM gaskets too

Thanks for the offer but my ports are larger then the OEM gaskets. I went full fucktard on everything this time. If all else fails I will RTV the shit out of everything next weekend to rule out the vac leak.
 

05stroker

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I received the Bogarts back from having the 3/4" spacers removed off the back of them this week so I went and had the tire mounted and I put them back on the car today. They had a little trouble with the rears since they had never removed the spacers on anything over 6.5 BS. They had to make an extension for there mill. Im really happy with how they turned out. There is very little clearance on the rears now though. I have about 5/8" clearance on the shock and the lower control arms. I had to remove the boot on the shock also as it was only 1/4" from the tire. All tucked up nice and neat now though with an 8 1/4" BS.

Now to get to work on the vacuum leak with the new gaskets..

Here are a few pics.







 

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