Upgrade supercharger or go turbo

Pentalab

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I don't have a BAP on my 2010 auto. (Only mod is fuse + 10 gauge wire ........ from battery post to trunk, which reduced my FPDC by at least 10%...now down to 80% @ 6 krpm..with blower on and 6 psi....+ 94 octane used...and 39 lb Roush supplied injectors)

However, Fuel RAIL pressure, with key ON, eng OFF is 50 psi. With eng ON, whether idle or right up to 6250 rpm ( rev limit)... it's a solid 40 psi.

Assuming BOTH your pumps are ok, the only thing left is the FPDM..and / or associated FPDM wiring.

The story I got a few years ago was dual GT-500 pumpS + dual BAP, sucked 40A off the battery at redline. Dunno if that was when E85 was used or not. If that is the case, 40A is a bunch. 8 gauge wire is only rated for 40A, you would still get a V drop on the length of 8 gauge wire, no big deal since the BAP would still output 17 vdc. 10 gauge is only rated at 30A..and would cook with 40A flowing through it.
 

Marble

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Wherever I have something going on with my car I always think about the very last thing I did on the car. Its usually something very simple. Its just very odd for the to be something wrong with your fuel system when supposedly it was just messed with. Maybe I missed something somewhere...
 

hockeygod

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Wherever I have something going on with my car I always think about the very last thing I did on the car. Its usually something very simple. Its just very odd for the to be something wrong with your fuel system when supposedly it was just messed with. Maybe I missed something somewhere...
It stopped starting immedietly after they reset the tire pressure monitors through the obd port. I went out to the car as they were trying to start it and the interior lights were flashing indicating that the tpms was not reset properly( because your not supposed to use the obd your supposed to follow the Ford instructions.) So now after having reflashed my tune to make sure nothing is wrong their I am still trying to troubleshoot. It has been pouring out all day here so I will have to go at it again tomorrow.
 

Marble

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Hmmm... just strange. It makes me think something didn't load right or the battery was slightly low or something. Its just super weird they messed with the computer and then shit went sideways.
 

hockeygod

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Ok update! We have success. I probed every wire you guys recommended and narrowed it down to the final connection from the harness the plugs into the fpdm's. I unplugged the connection and probed each pin and got no readings on any of them. I then replugged it back in and heard the relays clicking like crazy. Went to the ignition and turned it key off then back on and heard the pumps prime. Started it up and eureka it runs! Not sure what would have caused this as the harness wasn't loose at all but unplugging and plugging it back in did the trick.
 

Marble

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Don't you love it when it's something just plainly simple...I cannot tell you how many times I have obsessed over something wrong with my car and it's something just so so so simple.

I pulled the blower off my car one time and after reinstalling it wouldn't start. Couldn't figure it out for a day or so. Ended up being my TPS sensor wasn't plugged in.

So glad you got it figured out.


Now...are you done screwing around with your car? Drive it like you stole it!!
 

hockeygod

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Don't you love it when it's something just plainly simple...I cannot tell you how many times I have obsessed over something wrong with my car and it's something just so so so simple.

I pulled the blower off my car one time and after reinstalling it wouldn't start. Couldn't figure it out for a day or so. Ended up being my TPS sensor wasn't plugged in.

So glad you got it figured out.


Now...are you done screwing around with your car? Drive it like you stole it!!
Almost I am waiting for the banjo bolts for the brake to show up so I can finish the brake system. I have to contact vortech today as I realized my belt is rubbing because the shop never put my thermostat housimg spacer back on. Then need an inspection sticker and should be all set.
 

hockeygod

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Sweet! I'll start putting my motor back in one of these days....
Vortech needs a 26 day lead time and wants $75 for the spacer. Looks like I am going to have to Fab a new thermostat housing myself. Finished the brembos tonight. I may hold off until spring to install the epas as I really just want to drive me car again.
 

hockeygod

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Took the car for a ride today and damn it pulls super hard! It put the oh sh*t expression on my face. Need to get the driveability worked on in the tune though as it wants to stall almost every time I come to a stop light. Also damn the tial q bov venting to atmosphere is loud. Going to convert it to a qr soon. Building a wiring harness for the epas setup at the moment as well. I have so much stuff I still have to get done.
20181111_161843.jpg
 
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hockeygod

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what about me?

Just kidding

RE: wheels - there are different limiter spacers. They are integrated with the tie rod ends on later cars. I took the spacers off the ends and used my OEM spacers on my car. You can do some measurements.

I read in one place the 3rd mount was for NVH. I could see it picking up the moment from the motor/ballscrew/etc... bouncing up and down ahead of the rack. It would be fairly easy to integrate, at some time, into an aftermarket K.

I can't remember what the old hydraulic rack felt like as I had the car down for nearly two years. The new electric rack is very light at a stop, and the car handles great at speed.

I built most of my epas harness tonight. Where did you tap into a switched power source? Was there one in the pcm harness or did you do it from the fuse box. Also if you could refresh memory I believe you have to jack up the motor in order to access the bolts to swap the steering rack am I correct?
 

hockeygod

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The weather is supposed to suck for the rest of the week but I still have to install my cat pipes.

Check out these emblems to replace my fender GT logo and the stainless works radiator cover. Also does anyone have a good method for removing tape residue from my carbon fiber hood. The shop that had my car taped my hood vents shut and the residue is still there.

20181112_213219.jpg 2010-2012-mustang-v6-gt-show-panel-w-hood-prop-rod.jpg
 

AndrewNagle

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The weather is supposed to suck for the rest of the week but I still have to install my cat pipes.

Check out these emblems to replace my fender GT logo and the stainless works radiator cover. Also does anyone have a good method for removing tape residue from my carbon fiber hood. The shop that had my car taped my hood vents shut and the residue is still there.
Why did they tape your hood vents shut?

I thought they stored it inside?
 

eighty6gt

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I built most of my epas harness tonight. Where did you tap into a switched power source? Was there one in the pcm harness or did you do it from the fuse box. Also if you could refresh memory I believe you have to jack up the motor in order to access the bolts to swap the steering rack am I correct?

Did not jack up the engine. It's tight but I did it with a box end.

My switched power source came out of an ECM plug. If you look up the Roush m90 install instruction pdf it's where they get power to drive the relay for the intercooler pump. I split this 12v+KO to go to the rack and the pump relay.
 

05stroker

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The weather is supposed to suck for the rest of the week but I still have to install my cat pipes.

Check out these emblems to replace my fender GT logo and the stainless works radiator cover. Also does anyone have a good method for removing tape residue from my carbon fiber hood. The shop that had my car taped my hood vents shut and the residue is still there.

View attachment 68512 View attachment 68513
Where did you get those? I'm hunting a 323.
 

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