JackTX87

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Just dropping in introduce myself and get some more knowledge and wisdom with my 2010 Mustang GT. It's my first Mustang GT.
She was definitely left out in the AZ sun too long but she has potential I see.
Tips. Tricks. Shirt cuts. Cool upgrades. Easy fixes. Preventive maintenance advice.

I'm here for it.

Weird factoid with my stang... Whenever it's over 100 degrees out she likes to throw the engine code. Now that summer has passed the car is back to normal. Weird.... Codes are specifically related the o2 sensors and emissions based codes. The Mustang has no aftermarket upgrades and is fully stock. What do yall think?
 

Macman45

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welcome. need to know more info on your CEL codes. What are the exact codes? If it's O2 heater I could beehive that, as the higher ambient temperature could fool the resistivity of the heater circuit and may need a new O2. but that's speculation without the exact codes. post em up
 

JackTX87

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One of the code I was receiving was the P0456 evap system. The other two that popped up were O2 sensor based codes. O2 sensors were replaced a year ago. Ever since the huge temp drop in Arizona all codes have vanished. Engine is performing perfectly and no issues.

Still getting use to the forum but will post some pictures over the next few days.
 

Macman45

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One of the code I was receiving was the P0456 evap system. The other two that popped up were O2 sensor based codes. O2 sensors were replaced a year ago. Ever since the huge temp drop in Arizona all codes have vanished. Engine is performing perfectly and no issues.

Still getting use to the forum but will post some pictures over the next few days.
456 could be the evap purge valve on the driver shock tower. I chased that for awhile on one of mine before tossing a new one in and it fixed it. Was very intermittent. Only get a Motorcraft one not an Amazon one
 

Midlife Crises

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Welcome and congrats on finding an unmolested 2010 GT. The 2010 came from the factory with a cold air intake and about 15 more HP than the previous years. An axle back muffler change is a popular alteration.
I wander if a larger radiator might be an upgrade for the Phoenix area?
 

GriffX

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Welcome!

I remember my first trip to Phoenix, freezing cold airport and blistering heat outside ;)

What I now learned the 2010 comes with 6-hole injectors instead of 2-hole. Unfortunately, you need a tune for retrofit them.
 

Ret

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Welcome from N. Idaho. I lived in Phoenix for 30 years and the temperature up here is much better. I don't miss trying to open the car door and burning my hand. Anyway, Arizona heat is hard on cars.

Waiting for the pictures of your car.
 

JackTX87

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Welcome and congrats on finding an unmolested 2010 GT. The 2010 came from the factory with a cold air intake and about 15 more HP than the previous years. An axle back muffler change is a popular alteration.
I wander if a larger radiator might be an upgrade for the Phoenix area?
I have considered on getting an upgraded radiator and also replacing al current hoses. I have looked into axle back exhaust and also the cheap and easy muffler delete. Really need to do some searching on the forum for oem parts. Specifically the rear spoiler w/ camera cut out, as well as trunk dreck lid emblem. Trunk closed to hard and it popped off and broke.
 

MasterofDisaster

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Welcome! I drove an 86 Mustang GT all over Arizona for the 3 1/2 years I was there. I definitely needed a four-row radiator, but I've found that the S197 cooling system is much improved over the old foxbodies.
 

Pentalab

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I have considered on getting an upgraded radiator and also replacing al current hoses. I have looked into axle back exhaust and also the cheap and easy muffler delete. Really need to do some searching on the forum for oem parts. Specifically the rear spoiler w/ camera cut out, as well as trunk dreck lid emblem. Trunk closed to hard and it popped off and broke.
What does ur temp gauge indicate with normal driving...when it was hot out ?? On my 2010 GT, normal, regardless of outside temp fall / winter / spring / summer, my temp gauge reads just below 1/2 scale...... (once warmed up). It's always just below 1/2 scale, even cruising at 30 mph around town or 60 mph on the hwy in summer.

If it's reading 1/2 scale...or higher than 1/2 scale you need MORE air going through the oem eng rad, not a bigger rad. I installed the 7 bar upper grille on my 2010 (which is also a fog lamp delete). The oem upper grille on a 2010 GT is 80% blocked off as is. In my case it was installed cuz of the 'cool' factor, but also since I have a small roush blower installed, which consists of a huge heat exchanger that goes just behind the front bumper...and is full width and height. I also have a 2nd auto tranny cooler installed below the oem auto tranny cooler. Both auto tranny coolers are sandwiched between the oem eng rad and the AC rad. With the extra 2 x rads in there, plus the oem power steering rad, it's a total of 6 x rads.

IMO, a bigger eng rad, and the oem semi useless oem upper grille is a wasted effort.

But if ur eng temps are below 1/2 scale, you don't have a cooling issue.
 

GriffX

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It's always just below 1/2 scale, even cruising at 30 mph around town or 60 mph on the hwy in summer.
Does anybody has seen the needle going up any further? Since I know that Mercedes fakes the gauge values and does not show temperatures above thermostat temp, I would not rely on the gauge. We know that the oil pressure is fake. And the voltage meter is totally useless.

Short: Mercedes temp gauge does not show values between 190F and 235F. If it is 190 < temp < 235, it shows 190 instead. Ford maybe does the same?
 
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Pentalab

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Does anybody has seen the needle going up any further? Since I know that Mercedes fakes the gauge values and does not show temperatures above thermostat temp, I would not rely on the gauge. We know that the oil pressure is fake. And the voltage meter is totally useless.
Yes, when I had the 2 x speed fan relay / resistor burn up one summer, while in downtown rush hour traffic on a warm day, temp gauge went right to max, then the entire pod lit up RED.

I also have 3 x aeroforce gauges plugged into the OBD port. I have correlated temps on the digital readout on the aeroforce gauges vs needle indication on the temp gauge.

The temp gauge is real on a 2010. The oil pressure gauge is bs, it sits in one spot, never moves, regardless of starting in cold wx, or eng running norm temps in summer, or on the hwy with roush blower on......... oil gauge does not budge. I can read battery voltage on the aeroforce gauge...plugged into OBD port.
 

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