The Mustang shenanigans of a Bavarian

[GriffX]

@ DE Marcus... why did you punch the VIN into the rocker panel ??? The shocktower is a much better place.. also if you think about the damage you made concerning the rust protection,

It is always wet there. ....
Do you have HID?
Now you can start to make the suspension Autobahn ready

 

[brasil]

..HID started in 2008. His GT is from 2007.. so no HID ( I think )

 

[DE_Marcus]

Honestly, being swedish and reading about your shitfight against authorities makes me…Well…Worried…? Pissed off…? Happy that we don’t have all of these stupid regulations yet…?

Sweden have had very good regulations for all kind of classic cars for a long time. Regulations completely different from the rest of EU and completely independent from TÜV. We have been one of few european countries where importing an old american car or building your own hot rod has never been a problem.

But this is apparently ”under investigation” from some jackasses in Brussels…Of course, this little country on top of Europe can’t be allowed to do their own thing…They also have to follow and praise Dictator Ursula…!

Sometimes I wonder if we would not have been better off just staying outside this god darn union and the idiocrazy that comes with it…?

Germany is just allergic to change. We've done things this way for 1000 years and that's why we won't do anything different. Doesn't matter how idiotic it is.

And if you have anything the slightes bit out of the norm in Germany you are just straight fucked. Has to go through 100 different people because no one can just use common sense.....
Because things that aren't DIN-regulated aren't real, they're just scary stories.

There's a reason we use the phrases "Welcome to Germany" or "That's just Germany" to describe such things because there's literally no reason why things go the way they do....
Honestly there's only two reasons I'm still in this Country. My Parents and Unlimited Autobahn. (and maybe being to lazy to learn another language)

 

[DE_Marcus]

@ DE Marcus... why did you punch the VIN into the rocker panel ??? The shocktower is a much better place.. also if you think about the damage you made concerning the rust protection,

1. I didn't even wanna do that.
2. I don't wanna see what I was forced to do every time I open the hood.
3. Because even my TÜV guy told me on the shock tower it's ugly as fuck (plus new Corvettes do it there from factory) and also.... I'm different than other girls.
4. We already put transparent foil over it so no water/humidity can get to it. A bunch of paint chipped off there so I wouldn't have even considered leaving that exposed for a second.
The trim pieces infront and behind the door sill trim have already been rubbing the paint away. I'd rather introduce problems there than in the fucking engine bay where not even the bolt heads have rust on them.
5. Next year the car will be sent to get full paint repair, underbody/cavity cleaning and coating, PPF and everything else I can possibly do. They'll go over that spot aswell and get it all fixed up and factory looking (apart from my horrible punching job)

It is always wet there. ....
Do you have HID?
Now you can start to make the suspension Autobahn ready

Like I said it won't stay like that. Also it's behind the door rubber and I barely have people riding passenger AND there won't be many times I'll drive it in the rain.

Nope. I'll have to check the certificate for it first if it even is below 2000 lumens since I don't wanna have to add headlight sprayers. After that I'll think about how to wire it all up.


For now I'll just rest. Every free second I had this year has been spent on this car. I'm tired, but glad I did all this.

..HID started in 2008. His GT is from 2007.. so no HID ( I think )

 

[AndiObb]

Ours are back in April - we´ll do a trip together then. At least you had two days with yours to enjoy - made most of the trouble forgotten.

 

[GriffX]

Maybe you are interested. I integrated an E approved brake light into the housing. The OEM 921 is a nice try. Had to grind it a bit (bit more) and soldered the wires into the connector. Nice work for winter storage.
https://www.led-martin.de/Kombinierte-Rueck-Bremsleuchte-238mm

 

[DE_Marcus]

Well that too much of a LED look again..... white LEDs behind a red housing just always look odd for me. I see it in traffic too.

I alctually got a red 921 LED Bulb to go into the OEM socket.



I'm currently still trying to get someone to make the correct bulbs for me in the rear so I can run the sequential turn signals.
Have to have the middle and outer one turn off for the brake lights but the current LED bulbs have a delay from yellow to red which is not good for brake lights so currently only the inner most flashes.
Also the reason I still haven't redone the rear wiring..... this whole thing has drained me so much that I barely gotten out of the house since the end of october other than work.....

I'm actually mostly ordering more NOS stuff I can find from the Ford Racing and Accessories Catalog, plus black Interior parts since I still wanna swap out the lower half to black with grey accents like the seats are and keep everything Dove above dash level. Aswell as retrofit the Ambient Lighting form the 08+.
Also figuring out how to retrofit the factory active anti theft..... Funny how only the Dove Roof console with AAT was still available.

 

[GriffX]

The brake light has a noticeable delay from pedal to light anyway. The LEDs have a ramp-up time, I think the SJB is wasting half a tenth of a second reaction time for the following driver. I don't have an oscilloscope but I'm sure the signal is not rectangular.
I just had the opportunity to drive behind a 2008 in the dark (very rare in Germany) and thought the 3rd brake light has the brightness of a single firefly trapped in a jar. That's why I changed it. The LEDs are red, btw.

 

[DE_Marcus]

The brake light has a noticeable delay from pedal to light anyway. The LEDs have a ramp-up time, I think the SJB is wasting half a tenth of a second reaction time for the following driver. I don't have an oscilloscope but I'm sure the signal is not rectangular.
I just had the opportunity to drive behind a 2008 in the dark (very rare in Germany) and thought the 3rd brake light has the brightness of a single firefly trapped in a jar. That's why I changed it.

Well the delay I'm talking about is about over 1 second...... that's bad. It's so the turn signal is yellow -> off -> yellow but I can't have that if they need to switch to brake lights.
So I'll need yellow -> red -> yellow which just don't exist for some reason, hence the other post I put up asking about custom LED Bulbs......

I also don't want any delay to the third brake light. It should all turn on at the same time and not 3rd -> 0,15sek nothing -> other brakes. Because that's noticable and probably someone either at TÜV or the police will complain.
I currently have a tiny DC-DC-Converter that just supplies all red contacts with 6.5V (I think) so they're active but don't visibly light up so if another source puts 12V they actually visibly light up. That'll get thrown out once I got the correct LEDs.

The LEDs are red, btw.

Really? Mine look way more redish (like even more than with the original 3157 bulbs) but maybe that's just the photo....

And I only use LEDs where I need to. 3rd will get a LED because I've seen them melt the socket but reverse light is also still a 921/W16W.
The Interior ones will get swapped to warm white LEDs just so I can actually see the interior and trunk at night.
Up front it's still all bulbs. If I can get someone to make LEDs that look like clear EU Parking lights through the amber housing that'll be the only ones up front. I want that amber housing and my side markers back!

And maybe HIDs but that'll take a bit aswell..... and I'll have to find HID look bulbs for the Fogs then and get fitting LEDs AGAIN for the parking lights.....


Yes I'm very picky if you hadn't noticed yet....

 

[DE_Marcus]

Also aynone know a part number for the ground bolt that use the threads rear sheet metal in the trunk?

There is 1 on each side for the Tail Lights and I think Fuel Pump Driver Module and then on the passenger side there are two more threads for probably the Shaker 1000 stuff which I don't have. I wanna use those grounds but don't just wanna screw some random bolt with washer in there.....

 

[GriffX]

Also aynone know a part number for the ground bolt that use the threads rear sheet metal in the trunk?

There is 1 on each side for the Tail Lights and I think Fuel Pump Driver Module and then on the passenger side there are two more threads for probably the Shaker 1000 stuff which I don't have. I wanna use those grounds but don't just wanna screw some random bolt with washer in there.....

No, but a general way to find this is go to the iihs side and find the part. There is the number in the table and you can search in tascaparts to find it.

I agree with the bolts, I made custom aerodynamic plates and use automotive grade bolts and nuts wherever I can.

PS I have seen that Osram sells H13 and H11 LED bulbs.

 

[DE_Marcus]

Idk what you mean with IIHS.... I looked through the FordPartsGiant and Partsouq Catalogs and can't find anything....

Once again I don't want LEDs.... don't fit the car imo. Would still use all bulbs if I didn't need amber turn signals....

 

[DE_Marcus]

So..... been driving the Mustang for the last three weeks and..... It's just great.... I just love seeing pedestrians obviously staring while I drive by hahaha

But.... the stupid Modul to seperate the brake and turn signals is acting up and now only works when the engine is not running.... replacement does the same so I'll have to find another way to do that.... I do wonder if theres somewhere buried in the SJB firmware a option to seperate them, because if I unplug it one curcuit has a error code for turns and the other for brake signals.....
Also still looking to get the other LEDs made for the sequentials......

Other than that I also did the spark plugs and coil boots. I had already bought the extractor set beforehand but.....



8/8 came out! There's probably way worse since mine only had 30k miles on them, but I still had to soak them with fuel system cleaner and work them back and forth.
Driver side was particuarly sketchy feeling since they didn't gradually loosen like the passenger ones but just suddenly became very loose after being very tight....


Also got to try out the fender cover I bought and 10/10.



Crosshatching and all Cylinders + Pistons looked great. Cleaned the gunk out of the sealing surfaces and holes.
Blasted all the crap and fuel system cleaner out of the combustion chambers with shop air.



Gooped the Plugs with Motorcraft™ High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (as per TSB), cleaned and new boots on the coils. Unfortunatly one coil plug broke so it's currently zip tied on until I get the new connector.

Flood Mode started it to remove any left over fuel system cleaner and fired right up.
The new plugs and better fuel will definetly help with the carbon build up.


Other than that drove it over 900km on a weekend visiting a friend and a S650 plus a lambo on the autobahn made me burn a quarter tank just doing pulls and I didn't kill myself haha.

Once the lift is empty we'll do the trans oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid to DOT4 and coolant. Rear Gear Oil I will do after the underbody is cleaned and sealed so they don't mess up the Ford Racing Diff Cover I'll put on at the same time.

Also in the process of getting some interior aswell as non fitted options parts over. I wanna put in the factory Anti-Theft-System aswell as Ambient Lighting still.

I think that's all for now lol

 

[brasil]

...where did you find /bought the fender-cover ? Looks great !
About the plugs... isn´t there too much of the antisize stuff ?

About the carbon built up... when the gas prices will fall ( I hope they will ) you can use SHELL V Power 100 or ARAL Ultimate 102 .. this stuff is amazing... used both in my Alfa Romeos TC engines. Cleaner than clean inside the cylinders..

Greetings Juergen

 

[GriffX]

...where did you find /bought the fender-cover ? Looks great !
About the plugs... isn´t there too much of the antisize stuff ?

About the carbon built up... when the gas prices will fall ( I hope they will ) you can use SHELL V Power 100 or ARAL Ultimate 102 .. this stuff is amazing... used both in my Alfa Romeos TC engines. Cleaner than clean inside the cylinders..

Greetings Juergen

Aral 102 (95 US) is 10.93 $/gal today

 

[DE_Marcus]

...where did you find /bought the fender-cover ? Looks great !
About the plugs... isn´t there too much of the antisize stuff ?

About the carbon built up... when the gas prices will fall ( I hope they will ) you can use SHELL V Power 100 or ARAL Ultimate 102 .. this stuff is amazing... used both in my Alfa Romeos TC engines. Cleaner than clean inside the cylinders..

Greetings Juergen

badassfendercovers.com They're actually handmade in Florida. It is pricey but imo worth it. Plus you can't find shit for fender covers.....


I mean the TSB tells you to coat it that way. It doesn't look like it but the coat on it is actually really thin. The brush on that can lid also doesn't aid you in getting precision work done... But if I put any more pressure on it the metal would shine through. Yes I got some on the mating surface but it runs smoother than before and there was some carbon on that aswell so "viel hilft viel". Worst case I take them out again. Now it should be easy.





My buddy with his 13' Mustang actually talked to me about sharing a V-Power smart deal, since the more you use the cheaper it gets and I'll definetly do that. But for now I'm sure the 95 will suffice compared to whatever junk they put in before lol. I pumped out whatever was left in there before replacing the fuel filter.
But the best cleaning would still be blowing your headgasket.


Hmmpf.....Gas prices falling....funny

 

[DE_Marcus]

Aral 102 (95 US) is 10.93 $/gal today

Cheapest where I am at (25km radius) would be 10,37$/gal (raw number conversion)