Yep...........Is this the one you guys are upgrading to, or are you upgrading to something else?
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...ith-cooler-ports-mustang-1986-2014/p/M4033KA/
My car came stock with this one. The advertisement mentions the accommodation for a oil cooler, temp sensor, drain/fill, but it doesn’t mention vent location.
Point well taken. In my case, I removed the BMR adjustable PHB..and replaced it with a whiteline watts link. It came with a massive aluminum differential cover..and super thick. The flange, where it bolts to the differential is aprx 5/8" thick. 4 x 60mm bolts..and 1 x 40mm bolt are used to bolt the 'spider' to the differential cover. The aluminum cover has a lot of mass to it. At the same time, in went the eaton tru-trac.....and also the 75W-140 dino oil. Aluminum conducts heat almost triple that of steel. Also installed the bob's motorsports aluminum catch can for the axle. The new differential cover also comes with drain + fill plugs..so adding/ draining oil is easy. Also used a 'lube locker' gasket on the new cover.Precisely. The axle tube vent and the cover's plug have already switched places (but haven't been fully tightened yet).
Plus the ability to change the fluid without having to remove and replace the cover or try to squeeze fluid a few ounces at a time through the same hole that it will come back out of.
I'd already bought the cover a while ago but the job it was mainly associated with went on indefinite hold for a number of reasons. I've been out of active HPDE for a couple of years now (health issues) but am hoping to get back into it, if at a less serious pace. Either way, the finned cover is going on the car and any help it can provide for overly enthusiastic passes through any of my unofficial "test loops" will be greatly appreciated. At least I found the little packet of cover bolts this morning.
Feels good to get my little mod project underway again (Torsen, 3.73s, cover, revised rear ride height).
Norm
I ordered the second set (separate line item on the invoice, around $40 IIRC. But worth having in case it goes out of production.Mine didn’t come with spare bushings. That a nice touch there.
No squeaking out of mine yet & no I didn't do any modifications to the poly bushings. When I swapped out the covers I removed it....checked the bushings & saw all was still good & reinstalled it w\o adding any additional lubricant. I use Super Lube PTFE-based grease (very high in lubricity & adhesion, prohibits rust formation, is moisture repellant & holds up well under low to high temp swings. Safe to use on poly & most plastics) w\ my poly bushings & to date haven't had to reapply it due to squeaking issues. At some point in time I'll need to reapply it but to date I haven't needed to.I did start to develop some very minor squeaks when driving over speed bumps in parking lots months ago (before the PHB). It didn’t change after the PHB install.
As far as I can tell, the PHB hasn’t added any noises (yet). I suppose I’ll leave mine alone unless it becomes necessary in the future.
@GlassTop09, did you make any modifications to your bushings to prevent unwanted noises? If not, do you have any squeaking noises yet? I didn’t think about this until Norm pointed it out.
Don't feel bad; most people don't have any idea how the end connections for various links, arms, and bars really need to work. For most car enthusiasts, whether DIY'ers or those who go the shop-install route, the only thing on their mind is taking the fore-aft compliances out of the "soft OE rubber bushings" as a measure to reduce or eliminate axle hop . . . without fully understanding the potential downsides of changing the OE bushings out for anything firmer or that there might even be any downsides.I didn’t really understand the modifications that Norm proposed, until I took a peek at the OEM Panhard bar that was removed. Now I understand what was talked about. I find it strange that FRPP didn’t follow the same design configuration.
seems I can't work nearly as fast as I could only a couple of years ago, and I don't recover nearly as fast either.
Yeah, I'll admit that I was 1 of those. This S197 is the 1st car I've owned that used a 3 link rear suspension so I wasn't familiar w\ it's design thus geometry so since I was initially thinking straight line performance I made all the upgrades to optimize for that but in the process I also started noticing the ride compliance degradation w\ rear suspension seeming to "stiffen up" in turns causing some quirkiness so it became a little unsettling to me to push into turns......Don't feel bad; most people don't have any idea how the end connections for various links, arms, and bars really need to work. For most car enthusiasts, whether DIY'ers or those who go the shop-install route, the only thing on their mind is taking the fore-aft compliances out of the "soft OE rubber bushings" as a measure to reduce or eliminate axle hop . . . without fully understanding the potential downsides of changing the OE bushings out for anything firmer or that there might even be any downsides.
Norm
No shame in that.Yeah, I'll admit that I was 1 of those. This S197 is the 1st car I've owned that used a 3 link rear suspension so I wasn't familiar w\ it's design thus geometry so since I was initially thinking straight line performance I made all the upgrades to optimize for that but in the process I also started noticing the ride compliance degradation w\ rear suspension seeming to "stiffen up" in turns causing some quirkiness so it became a little unsettling to me to push into turns......