Anyone have dyno before and after FRPP Hot Rod Cams and tune?

[Nathan H]

Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum. I did a bunch of searches but I can't find what I'm looking for. I've seen a lot of posts where people say they installed the FRPP Hot Rod cams and gained "X" amount of power, but they always seem to be along the lines of "I also installed a CAI and got a tune." In that case more than two variables have been changed and it's hard to know what caused what change for power. Has anyone already had a CAI and tune and THEN put the cams in? If so how, did they really gain 20-30rwhp? I have a 2007 GT with 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, JLT 3 intake, Steeda under drive pullies and a tune from Breenspeed. I'm just wondering what to expect after adding the Hot Rod cams. If I go that route, I'm going to get a tune from Lito.

Thanks,
Nathan

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I'd expect something like:

299rwhp & 311rwtq from your current mods
321rwhp & 310rwtq with hot rod cams & retune

The HP & TQ curves speak for themselves.

 

[Nathan H]

Awesome! Thank you for the info!

I noticed in your signature you list basic bolt-ons. What do you have done? I'd love to hit the 12s and run 109 in the 1/4!

 

[Midlife Crises]

I suspect Dino’s ballpark is just about right. You will most certainly want to tune for the cam change. You can use Brenspeed again and see how they run those cams for your comparison or go with Lito and see how a different tuner approaches your combination. Lito is known to fine tune adjustments when necessary and Brenspeed has a reputation for not responding to pleas for help.

 

[crjackson]

Brenspeed has a reputation for not responding to pleas for help.

Amen to that! Never again with Brenspeed for me!

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I noticed in your signature you list basic bolt-ons. What do you have done? I'd love to hit the 12s and run 109 in the 1/4!

JLT 3 CAI, DIY charge motion delete plates, DIY ported stock throttle body, Steeda underdrive pulleys, Ford Racing cut n' clamp X-pipe, Brenspeed 91 octane tune, DSS aluminum driveshaft.
The "hero" run in my sig. was with a 1/4 tank of gas and over 110lb of temporary weight reduction (removed front passenger seat, rear seats, spare wheel, trunk mat, and trunk contents). The best I did in full street trim with a 3640lb race weight was 12.67 @ 108.54.

I suspect Dino’s ballpark is just about right. You will most certainly want to tune for the cam change. You can use Brenspeed again and see how they run those cams for your comparison or go with Lito and see how a different tuner approaches your combination. Lito is known to fine tune adjustments when necessary and Brenspeed has a reputation for not responding to pleas for help.

Definitely go with Lito for the tune. His website is www.tudyno.com . The commonest problems with the Hot Rod cams are an uneven idle and hesitation/bucking at low rpm. Lito can smooth those out.

 

[mustanger]

I added Hot Rod Cams after already having a CAI and Long tubes. I did a baseline dyno, then a dyno with just the cams and a tune for them. I picked up 27hp.

 

[Daniel Roberson]

In my humble opinion, the cams sound great but the low-end torque loss really sucks. If you get the long tubes with the cams it will put a smile on your face otherwise you have been warned.

 

[Aerofinz]

Agree with Dino (and Daniel).

My 2 cents, don't do the cams unless the "old school" lopey idle/shake is your main objective. I have two '07's, one S/C, one all bolt-ons including cams. Maybe I'm just getting old(er), but the inherent shake and additional finesse needed to clutch along in traffic or in a parking lot can be a pain, not to mention, it's somewhat common to get an exhaust smell at the right conditions at idle due to the cam profile (yes, I have cats). Not an ideal DD for traffic, IMO.
I also have 4:10s, long tubes, etc. etc.
Unless you have a real "gearhead" for a sig other, they will likely not care for it either (if matters, LOL!). But yes, you will grin!
For a sunny day errand runner that gets the attention of every Charger and Camaro, sure, it's fun. But my supercharged version just does everything with so much more finesse and ease. It's really like driving two different cars. Both 10,000 mile garage queens.
I bought mine already modded. Of course it depends on your main agenda and maybe age.

P.S. I'm at 337/310, dyno'd by the largest tuner in the Midwest in Ford's backyard, in fact Ford has commissioned him for dozens of projects. From his "real world" parasitic loss experience, based on 5000 +/- Mustangs dyno'd to date, it hit the previous owner's goal of 400+ crank equiv HP.

A car guy buddy recently heard me aggressively leave a stop light. Told me he'll sell kids/organs to buy the car based on the sound, he was that impressed. YMMV. And it typical forum fashion, we've probably not answered your original question, LOL!

 

[Nathan H]

Agree with Dino (and Daniel).

My 2 cents, don't do the cams unless the "old school" lopey idle/shake is your main objective. I have two '07's, one S/C, one all bolt-ons including cams. Maybe I'm just getting old(er), but the inherent shake and additional finesse needed to clutch along in traffic or in a parking lot can be a pain, not to mention, it's somewhat common to get an exhaust smell at the right conditions at idle due to the cam profile (yes, I have cats). Not an ideal DD for traffic, IMO.
I also have 4:10s, long tubes, etc. etc.
Unless you have a real "gearhead" for a sig other, they will likely not care for it either (if matters, LOL!). But yes, you will grin!
For a sunny day errand runner that gets the attention of every Charger and Camaro, sure, it's fun. But my supercharged version just does everything with so much more finesse and ease. It's really like driving two different cars. Both 10,000 mile garage queens.
I bought mine already modded. Of course it depends on your main agenda and maybe age.

P.S. I'm at 337/310, dyno'd by the largest tuner in the Midwest in Ford's backyard, in fact Ford has commissioned him for dozens of projects. From his "real world" parasitic loss experience, based on 5000 +/- Mustangs dyno'd to date, it hit the previous owner's goal of 400+ crank equiv HP.

A car guy buddy recently heard me aggressively leave a stop light. Told me he'll sell kids/organs to buy the car based on the sound, he was that impressed. YMMV. And it typical forum fashion, we've probably not answered your original question, LOL!

Thanks! I appreciate the insight. For your S/C car, what are you running? I've been thinking about possibly doing that as well. I know the centrifugal superchargers are popular, but I do like the idea of immediate torque of a PD blower. I think if I went with a PD blower, I'd change gears since I think 4.10s are too low for that. I've heard they're good for a centrifugal.

 

[Nathan H]

JLT 3 CAI, DIY charge motion delete plates, DIY ported stock throttle body, Steeda underdrive pulleys, Ford Racing cut n' clamp X-pipe, Brenspeed 91 octane tune, DSS aluminum driveshaft.
The "hero" run in my sig. was with a 1/4 tank of gas and over 110lb of temporary weight reduction (removed front passenger seat, rear seats, spare wheel, trunk mat, and trunk contents). The best I did in full street trim with a 3640lb race weight was 12.67 @ 108.54.

Definitely go with Lito for the tune. His website is www.tudyno.com . The commonest problems with the Hot Rod cams are an uneven idle and hesitation/bucking at low rpm. Lito can smooth those out.

Thanks! I'm almost there! Did you see much of a difference with the charge motion deletes?

 

[Aerofinz]

Thanks! I appreciate the insight. For your S/C car, what are you running? I've been thinking about possibly doing that as well. I know the centrifugal superchargers are popular, but I do like the idea of immediate torque of a PD blower. I think if I went with a PD blower, I'd change gears since I think 4.10s are too low for that. I've heard they're good for a centrifugal.

I've run Vortech's on two 4.6's (and an LT1), and a PD on a 5.4L. I personally prefer the centri's, the power builds linear with the natural power curve of the engine (4.6L). It's generally thought to be easier on the engine long-term vs the harsher quick hit of a PD and a little less likely to end up on a Mustang fail video leaving C&C, lol! And it just builds steam and never quits. With my 4.6L Vortech SN95 Cobra I'd lose a few feet initially to a S197 GT500 but quickly catch and pass. If I had room to reach at least 50, I never came out behind, up to low triple digits anyway. 4:10s, which I hated on highway trips to shows. Very happy with 3:73's on my current '07 Vortech. Everyone has an opinion on S/C's. I've had my choice on 4 vehicles and been happy with the centri's. Back in the SN95 days, they were pretty much the "go to".

 

[BottleRocket]

Hi. I bought my already modified '08 GT 2 years ago after losing my totally stock (except for CAI) '08 GT in a deer collision. After haggling with the insurance company for a month (they wanted to settle for $9,500, finally agreed on $12,500), I picked up a beautiful super low mile (2.6K miles) '12 Boss 302; factory cover, factory owners manual, factory smell, etc., but I wanted another 4.6 so the next weekend I found a beautiful '08 GT/CS in Scottsdale at a Ford dealer. Apparently the owner had purchased it new, spent a ton of money on a CAI, Hot Rod cams, FRPP shorty headers, Ford lowering springs, and GT-500 muffler, then passed away. His wife kept it in the garage for years until someone convinced her she needed to sell it. I picked it up with 29K miles. When I started it up for the test drive I was blown away. I love my Boss (my wife does too), but nothing compares to the idle of a 4.6 with Hot Rod cams. I replaced the Ford shorty headers with BBK long tubes and also went with the BBK high flow cat mid-pipe. Charger guys in the line at the car wash drool over the idle and I'm constantly getting, "I wish mine sounded like that". In response to 'Aero' I don't have a lot of the problems he's mention. I don't have any smell, it seldom bucks, and it's perfectly happy in traffic although you can tell it's not a stock 4.6. I have a 2 hour daily commute and it's my daily driver, 20K miles per year. I set the cruise at 70, put some tunes on, and sit back and enjoy the trip.

 

[DieHarder]

Thanks! I appreciate the insight. For your S/C car, what are you running? I've been thinking about possibly doing that as well. I know the centrifugal superchargers are popular, but I do like the idea of immediate torque of a PD blower. I think if I went with a PD blower, I'd change gears since I think 4.10s are too low for that. I've heard they're good for a centrifugal.

For lots of info on supercharging check out DOB. I did a ton of research before pulling the trigger. Going on two years now. Absolutely worth it every time I start her up... DOB: https://www.departmentofboost.com/

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Thanks! I'm almost there! Did you see much of a difference with the charge motion deletes?

I did the charge motion deletes and the underdrive pulleys at the same time. I did notice an improvement both in performance and gas mileage, though the biggest improvement came from the JLT 3 plus tune. That was my first mod and my reaction was "wow".

 

[Aerofinz]

... perfectly happy in traffic... View attachment 81079

Good review! I'm just spoiled with the S/C, the cams and all the bolt-ons still don't get close, IMO, two completely different outcomes, that said, motorheads love the cams! I admit, I've always been into having a unique (and of course very subjective) look and still fast vs loud and fast.

Clarification, NEVER said bucking! I meant the ability to more easily creep through a parking lot unnoticed and compared side-by-side, some drivability is lost, however minimal.

 

[Nathan H]

I did the charge motion deletes and the underdrive pulleys at the same time. I did notice an improvement both in performance and gas mileage, though the biggest improvement came from the JLT 3 plus tune. That was my first mod and my reaction was "wow".

My first mods (all at the same time) were JLT 3, Steeda underdrive pulleys and tune. Yeah, it was a big change. Also, changing to the 4.10s was a big thing for the street. I'm curious about going with a Lito tune compared to a Brenspeed tune. I've had no problems with Brenspeed, just wonder if it'll make a difference. I saw one dyno sheet with similar mods to mine where Lito's tune had more low-end torque than the Brenspeed one.

 

[Nathan H]

I've run Vortech's on two 4.6's (and an LT1), and a PD on a 5.4L. I personally prefer the centri's, the power builds linear with the natural power curve of the engine (4.6L). It's generally thought to be easier on the engine long-term vs the harsher quick hit of a PD and a little less likely to end up on a Mustang fail video leaving C&C, lol! And it just builds steam and never quits. With my 4.6L Vortech SN95 Cobra I'd lose a few feet initially to a S197 GT500 but quickly catch and pass. If I had room to reach at least 50, I never came out behind, up to low triple digits anyway. 4:10s, which I hated on highway trips to shows. Very happy with 3:73's on my current '07 Vortech. Everyone has an opinion on S/C's. I've had my choice on 4 vehicles and been happy with the centri's. Back in the SN95 days, they were pretty much the "go to".

View attachment 81074

Thanks so much! That's some good insight. I don't want to just blow the tires off and with the 4.10s it gets up to 3K pretty quickly. As of right now they're a little bit of a dead spot from 2k to 3K where it feels like the car really kicks in (I'm N/A). I'm wondering with a centri if that will smooth out. I'd like a little more pull for daily driving between 2K-3.5K

 

[Nathan H]

Hi. I bought my already modified '08 GT 2 years ago after losing my totally stock (except for CAI) '08 GT in a deer collision. After haggling with the insurance company for a month (they wanted to settle for $9,500, finally agreed on $12,500), I picked up a beautiful super low mile (2.6K miles) '12 Boss 302; factory cover, factory owners manual, factory smell, etc., but I wanted another 4.6 so the next weekend I found a beautiful '08 GT/CS in Scottsdale at a Ford dealer. Apparently the owner had purchased it new, spent a ton of money on a CAI, Hot Rod cams, FRPP shorty headers, Ford lowering springs, and GT-500 muffler, then passed away. His wife kept it in the garage for years until someone convinced her she needed to sell it. I picked it up with 29K miles. When I started it up for the test drive I was blown away. I love my Boss (my wife does too), but nothing compares to the idle of a 4.6 with Hot Rod cams. I replaced the Ford shorty headers with BBK long tubes and also went with the BBK high flow cat mid-pipe. Charger guys in the line at the car wash drool over the idle and I'm constantly getting, "I wish mine sounded like that". In response to 'Aero' I don't have a lot of the problems he's mention. I don't have any smell, it seldom bucks, and it's perfectly happy in traffic although you can tell it's not a stock 4.6. I have a 2 hour daily commute and it's my daily driver, 20K miles per year. I set the cruise at 70, put some tunes on, and sit back and enjoy the trip. View attachment 81079

Awesome review! Now with all those mods, how does it compare with your Boss? I'm sure the Boss pulls much harder, but would be interested to hear how much different (or the same) they are.

 

[Aerofinz]

Thanks so much! That's some good insight. I don't want to just blow the tires off and with the 4.10s it gets up to 3K pretty quickly. As of right now they're a little bit of a dead spot from 2k to 3K where it feels like the car really kicks in (I'm N/A). I'm wondering with a centri if that will smooth out. I'd like a little more pull for daily driving between 2K-3.5K

2k+ starts the sweetspot for a centri without hammering the engine to it's max. But good luck stopping at 3.5K, the linear power just begs to keep going. If anyone swears by a PD, ask if they've spent any real time in a centri. How else can you really have an opinion? I've driven both, I like both.