BMR Watts Link - Teaser

[Smokievol]

Kelly, Am I right? The pics on the BMR website show a Finned Ford Diff Cover??

I'm hoping so. Are my eyes deceiving me??

 

[Gabe]

Kelly, Am I right? The pics on the BMR website show a Finned Ford Diff Cover??

I'm hoping so. Are my eyes deceiving me??

It certainly looks like a finned cover to me.

 

[Mark Aubele]

Hello Kelly,
Has anyone installed the watts link with the Finned, Steeda, Ford Differential Cover??

Need for that too clear. I would not want to have to remove the watts link to change the differential fluid.

Clears with ease on my car. Although you would never be able to get the cover off without removing parts on the watts.

 

[Barricade]

Poly or no? Im a tad confused...

 

[csamsh]

Spherical only on a dedicated track car IMO.

 

[Mark Aubele]

Only thing that made noise on mine (so far) was the Delrin in the propeller because of me under greasing it. All spherical.

 

[Smokievol]

Steeda Diff Cover

That's why I picked up the Steeda diff cover, can fill and drain wo removing watts link.

Per Kelly it fits.

Thanks

Clears with ease on my car. Although you would never be able to get the cover off without removing parts on the watts.

 

[sailorrhett]

Pulled the trigger on the rod/poly version last night. Should I cover the rod end in anything? Just grease them, or should I get those covers from summit?

Really excited to try this upgrade from the panhard bar.

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Pulled the trigger on the rod/poly version last night. Should I cover the rod end in anything? Just grease them, or should I get those covers from summit?

Really excited to try this upgrade from the panhard bar.

Get the covers. Do not grease the rod ends. Greasing them will cause dirt and grit to stick to them, and they will wear out prematurely. Amsoil makes a waxy spray that I recommend spraying on them. It will help to keep them lubed without dirt sticking to them. Spray the Amsoil on, then install the boots.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...s-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/

 

[Smokievol]

I will have a shop install for me, not handy with tools and always feel better when a pro does it for me. PCM in Raleigh has always done a great job for me.

My question, as you can tell I'm still on the fence...is...

Once this is installed, how do you make adjustments to get it dialed in, and do you need a lift to make that happen?

 

[Mark Aubele]

I will have a shop install for me, not handy with tools and always feel better when a pro does it for me. PCM in Raleigh has always done a great job for me.

My question, as you can tell I'm still on the fence...is...

Once this is installed, how do you make adjustments to get it dialed in, and do you need a lift to make that happen?

Can be done easily on drive on ramps. You want the suspension loaded when making adjustments.

 

[Gabe]

It has the same adjustability - except you have to drop one end of the link down to adjust it.

Honestly...due to our design, the bearing/bearing version does not provide much NVH.

If you are concerned with that, you can buy the Seals It RERS3 boots and cover the axle side bearing with them....and that helps big time.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3

For the poly-bushing version I'd still need 2 of these, right?
For the impeller end?

 

[cbass]

For the poly-bushing version I'd still need 2 of these, right?
For the impeller end?

Yes, two pieces. The link is a bag of six of them, which means you can do both of the watts links you bought.

Just be prepared to swear putting them on, it's not fucking easy. But I have baseball mitts for hands, so maybe it was just me.

 

[Gabe]

Yes, two pieces. The link is a bag of six of them, which means you can do both of the watts links you bought.

Just be prepared to swear putting them on, it's not fucking easy. But I have baseball mitts for hands, so maybe it was just me.

Thanks. I ordered some of that Amsoil spray that Dylan mentioned above, I hope that that will act like a lube to help stick that thing on.
Lube always helps.

 

[Boaisy]

Giggity

 

[lito]

Get the covers. Do not grease the rod ends. Greasing them will cause dirt and grit to stick to them, and they will wear out prematurely. Amsoil makes a waxy spray that I recommend spraying on them. It will help to keep them lubed without dirt sticking to them. Spray the Amsoil on, then install the boots.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...s-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/

I think (may be wrong) that using some lubing tech of dirt bike riders for the chains may work well too. The have special lubes for the chain that do not pick dirt, the one I've tried is like a wax that stays dry.

 

[CobraRed]

I think (may be wrong) that using some lubing tech of dirt bike riders for the chains may work well too. The have special lubes for the chain that do not pick dirt, the one I've tried is like a wax that stays dry.

Yup, that works too.

Whoever installing it, make sure you work the Amsoil MP into the bearing surface before install. Like put one end in a vice and work it in.

 

[nelsonbullitt]

Update on the BMR watts link.
As reported by myself and others earlier on bumps you can get a "thump" back near the axle. It was/is the drivers side exhaust pipe.
When I raised my car back to stock ride height even on bumps the noise was not there.
Good job by BMR to make it silent on the stock ride height.
BTW, with a watts, tokicos and good anti sway bars, the car handles excellent (not as good as lowered) and is much quieter.

 

[Speedboosted]

Update on the BMR watts link.
As reported by myself and others earlier on bumps you can get a "thump" back near the axle. It was/is the drivers side exhaust pipe.
When I raised my car back to stock ride height even on bumps the noise was not there.
Good job by BMR to make it silent on the stock ride height.
BTW, with a watts, tokicos and good anti sway bars, the car handles excellent (not as good as lowered) and is much quieter.

I believe they made a note on the website or maybe instructions as well that if your car is lower around 1.5" or more that the top of the passenger side bracket needs to be trimmed to prevent it from doing what it did on your car.

 

[Norm Peterson]

the car handles excellent (not as good as lowered) and is much quieter.

Are you completely sure that it isn't simply that it the car behaves a little differently at different ride heights and that your driving and your perceptions from the driver's seat haven't fully re-adjusted to stock height? I'm assuming for now that when you're driving you've put any outward appearance-based biases against stock ride height out of your mind.

Out of curiosity, how much different was your rear roll center with the Watts link vs with the PHB? Both either lowered or not lowered.

Even the relo bracket settings get involved here.


Norm