Cams and timing

[rattleanake]

I want to put in FRPP Hot Rod cams in. I have been researching what other stuff to change, it is a 07 GT, has 147,000 miles and is a DD. I was thinking about also doing the FRPP camshaft drive kit and the rocker arm & lash adjuster kit. I put on pypes LT's and catted H pipe with the stock mufflers, and have a CAI. Would this be a good idea? Is there anything else I should do that tends to break?

 

[StockishS197]

You are on the right track. At 150k, I would consider pulling the front cover and replacing the chains, guides and phasers as well. Probably the oil pump as well since you are basically there

 

[cavero]

Looks like the kit covers a lot of it

https://lmr.com/item/M6004463V/2005-10-Mustang-GT-Camshaft-Drive-Kit-M-6004-463V

For the rocker arms, they did have a revised design for better oiling, would be worth making sure the kit you order has it

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I want to put in FRPP Hot Rod cams in. I have been researching what other stuff to change, it is a 07 GT, has 147,000 miles and is a DD. I was thinking about also doing the FRPP camshaft drive kit and the rocker arm & lash adjuster kit. I put on pypes LT's and catted H pipe with the stock mufflers, and have a CAI. Would this be a good idea? Is there anything else I should do that tends to break?

Here's a shopping list of parts for my recommended 150k mile engine refresh:

OEM VCT Solenoids: 8L3Z-6M280-B
Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V
Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V
Felpro Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket Set: ES73226
OEM valve stem oil seals: 3L3Z-6571-DA (or Viton valve stem oil seals).
PQY Performance valve spring compressor: VSC07B
OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A)
OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA)

 

[JC SSP]

Great info. Getting close to doing this on my GT.

 

[Samos3]

I've been buying parts to do this, as well.
My adds:
Valve cover gaskets
Oil Filter adaptor gasket (both oil and coolant go thru it. If it goes bad, which they can, then oil and coolant can mix).

If the timing cover is damaged from loose chains and you need a replacement, Ford still sells them new....for $171 you get a new timing cover with new gaskets AND brand new belt tensioner and Idler pulleys.

 

[JC SSP]

Samos can you post a detail parts list?

 

[Samos3]

Timing cover:

7R3Z-6019-A 7R3Z6019A Genuine Ford Part https://share.google/RccbTAsw5LysaZOxM

Oil Filter Adaptor Gasket:
F6AZ-6840-BA F6AZ6840BA - Ford Parts Giant https://share.google/am0TRUDvaELWU6kRa

I don't know of FelPro makes a better one or not.

Other than that, pretty much the same list as Dino's. Shopping around can get a good price. I got the VCT solenoids off Amazon for 70 each. But watch out for the older unrevised versions (2-3 of them) still being sold.
Mine were from a Ford dealer selling on Amazon.

I want to put in FRPP Hot Rod cams in. I have been researching what other stuff to change, it is a 07 GT, has 147,000 miles and is a DD. I was thinking about also doing the FRPP camshaft drive kit and the rocker arm & lash adjuster kit. I put on pypes LT's and catted H pipe with the stock mufflers, and have a CAI. Would this be a good idea? Is there anything else I should do that tends to break?

At that mileage and age, consider doing all your hoses if they are original. Having had a bad experience with a Focus, I replaced every plastic part of the cooling/heater system that I could.
Dorman makes metal connectors to replace the plastic ones, but I didn't know about that at the time.

I did the heater hoses, radiator hoses, fittings/seals, water pump, thermostat/housing/gaskets, and the steel fitting coming out the back of the water pump cavity in the block. The only things I didn't replace were the radiator, temp sensor and that oil filter adaptor gasket (did not know about that at the time, either. Wish I had).

 

[GlassTop09]

Oil Filter Adaptor Gasket:
F6AZ-6840-BA F6AZ6840BA - Ford Parts Giant https://share.google/am0TRUDvaELWU6kRa

I don't know of FelPro makes a better one or not.

FYI.............this is the 1 you want to get in pictures below. The new revised Ford gasket.........is made from metal instead of plastic.

 

[Samos3]

FYI.............this is the 1 you want to get in pictures below. The new revised Ford gasket.........is made from metal instead of plastic.

View attachment 115523

View attachment 115524

I'll have to check and see which one I have....

 

[JC SSP]

Which valve stem seals to use? Ford OEM, felpro etc.

Currently weighing having a shop do the chain set, tensioners, oil pump, followers, etc. but on the fence about valve stems.

Any input would greatly be appreciated and I will start a new thread when I pull the trigger.

 

[Samos3]

FYI.............this is the 1 you want to get in pictures below. The new revised Ford gasket.........is made from metal instead of plastic.

View attachment 115523

View attachment 115524

I have the right one!

Which valve stem seals to use? Ford OEM, felpro etc.

Currently weighing having a shop do the chain set, tensioners, oil pump, followers, etc. but on the fence about valve stems.

Any input would greatly be appreciated and I will start a new thread when I pull the trigger.

If you have a shop do it, might as well have them do the valve stem seals. Provided the sparkplugs come out easy.....or you could remove the plugs and reinstall them so the shop won't have an issue.

 

[Kev555]

FYI.............this is the 1 you want to get in pictures below. The new revised Ford gasket.........is made from metal instead of plastic.

View attachment 115523

View attachment 115524

A gasket set I ordered had two of these for the oil filter housing. I first one I used which looked the best quality and thickest leaked as soon as I put the coolant in, I replaced it with the thinner other one with the red seals I think and it sealed? There was no issues with any other gasket during the engine build. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAH-CS5931B I just took it the two gaskets were for different applications or engine blocks?

 

[Midlife Crises]

Which valve stem seals to use? Ford OEM, felpro etc.

Currently weighing having a shop do the chain set, tensioners, oil pump, followers, etc. but on the fence about valve stems.

Any input would greatly be appreciated and I will start a new thread when I pull the trigger.

The OEM Ford and the Felpro valve stem seals are both Viton and of good quality. I’m running Felpro with no complaints.

 

[Samos3]

Actually finally working on it. On vacation, but its been rainy.

Cam covers are off:

Passenger side:



Drivers side:



Doesn't look bad for 240k. But I figured ask I'd ask for opinions on the cam lobe. I do have a spare pair of cams that are reasonably low mileage....provided they are the correct oem cams.

I don't see anything tragic. Chains don't seem terribly loose, either.

Passenger side looks much cleaner than drivers side.

This might be all for today. Still trying to break the crank pulley bolt loose.

Also, here are pics of the oil filter adapter flange on the block. Notice the corrosion pits:

 

[JC SSP]

Please post any tricks or difficulties that you encounter.

 

[Samos3]

Please post any tricks or difficulties that you encounter.

First trick: most definitely replace that oil filter adapter gasket. I could see the seal was in the process of failing. See pic. Drain coolant at radiator and remove upper radiator hose and coolant tank. So much more room than having to fight around it doing the rest of the timing stuff Just using the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator removed enough coolant that I could remove the hose from the oil filter adapter without much coming out at all. I do have the front of the car up on ramps.

Second trick: break loose the crank pulley bolt before doing anything else. I didn't so I am at a stopping point until I get...

The third trick!: stubby impact wrench from Harbor Freight. I figured I could do it with a long breaker bar, trans in gear and parking brake set. No such luck.
Luckily, my wife has to stop at Walgreens on her way home....exactly directly across the street from HF. You could throw a rock from one to the other.

Fourth....make sure you have the fuel disconnect tool for the fuel line to fuel rail connection.

Pics of adapter gasket:


Five: This tool! Hose clamps pliers. Long reach. Best thing ever for the oem clamps....especially on the lower hose to the oil filter adapter housing.
It has a little toothed locking pawl that locks the pliers once you've squeezed the clamp. That part doesn't work so great. But its still waaayyy better than channellocks.



I've watched the Makuloco timing component videos. He does use the stubby impact, but he is working on a truck in the videos. On the Mustang, this is the reason for the stubby impact. There is an a/c line right smack in front of the crank pulley.
In the pic I have a short impact socket.

 

[Samos3]

6....Autozone does carry the right type damper pulley that has three hooks that go sideways to catch the flats on the pulley. It's like $65. I have a small three jaw that I'm going to try first.
They also have two different installer tools in the loan a tool program. One has a much stouter jack bolt, but it is longer, the other has a thinner jack bolt with changeable threaded tips. Look at both and decide for yourself.

And examine your valve covers where the coil bolts are. Most of mine are cracked at the threaded holes. I changed out the coils awhile back and noticed it. Heat cycling and factory torque specs? Maybe. Or maybe somebody used a small impact driver to remove them at some point prior to my ownership.

 

[JC SSP]

First excellent break down. I and others appreciate that you are supplying such important information. This should be a sticky or pinned for future reference.

Did you remove the radiator? Autozone should rent you the puller. Hose clamp pliers are from HF?

On the valve covers, YES I had to epoxy and tap them several years ago. I plan on putting new ones on when I do the timing set.

 

[Samos3]

Radiator and fan still in place.