Car wobbles when accelerating

[Juice]

Your options are:
Stock air intake and factory stock reflash.
Or
Get a tune and keep the JLT intake.

Personally, I have run both on mine. Been testing. I have not been able to prove the jlt intake makes more power. I should have some good data after May 6th track day at Summit point. If there is no gains with the JLT, I will be puttimg the stock setup back on for good. It has better low speed manners vs the aftermarket intake.

 

[Nikotopless]

Your options are:
Stock air intake and factory stock reflash.
Or
Get a tune and keep the JLT intake.

Personally, I have run both on mine. Been testing. I have not been able to prove the jlt intake makes more power. I should have some good data after May 6th track day at Summit point. If there is no gains with the JLT, I will be puttimg the stock setup back on for good. It has better low speed manners vs the aftermarket intake.

Any recommended tunes for the JLT intake? Where can I buy a decent tune and have it properly tuned? Sorry for such amateurish questions but I’m on it to learn and appreciate your help a lot Juce

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

What about the wobbling?

 

[Juice]

What about the wobbling?

Pretty sure its the advance trac acting up.

 

[Juice]

Any recommended tunes for the JLT intake? Where can I buy a decent tune and have it properly tuned? Sorry for such amateurish questions but I’m on it to learn and appreciate your help a lot Juce

I dont have any recomendation on a good coyote tuner, sorry.
I ended up buying the SCT software and been tweaking mine myself. Whatever you decide, stay away from American Muscle tunes.

I am assuming that the engine the dealer installed is stock.
What about the exhaust? Stock headers and stock catalytic converters on there? If so, it should be a fairly basic tune.
Do you need to pass emission inspection?

In any case, you will need to spend money on a handheld tuner. The SCT x4 is $400, than you will need a tune, and those can run quite a bit of money in addition.
Honestly, I would try to pickup a stock air intake, and have Ford flash it to stock. Make sure the wobble is gone. Than start tuning if you want. There isnt a lot to be gained on these with a tune on a stock engine.

 

[Nikotopless]

I dont have any recomendation on a good coyote tuner, sorry.
I ended up buying the SCT software and been tweaking mine myself. Whatever you decide, stay away from American Muscle tunes.

I am assuming that the engine the dealer installed is stock.
What about the exhaust? Stock headers and stock catalytic converters on there? If so, it should be a fairly basic tune.
Do you need to pass emission inspection?

In any case, you will need to spend money on a handheld tuner. The SCT x4 is $400, than you will need a tune, and those can run quite a bit of money in addition.
Honestly, I would try to pickup a stock air intake, and have Ford flash it to stock. Make sure the wobble is gone. Than start tuning if you want. There isnt a lot to be gained on these with a tune on a stock engine.

The tailpipes on the exhaust say “Ford Performance” idk if that’s the stock exhaust with the performance package or not, also the car also came with a “Pedal Max Commander.” I am not worried about any emissions test I just want the car operating optimally without hindering performance. I am thankful for all your input bro

 

[Juice]

I would ditch the pedal commander.

 

[Nikotopless]

I dont have any recomendation on a good coyote tuner, sorry.
I ended up buying the SCT software and been tweaking mine myself. Whatever you decide, stay away from American Muscle tunes.

I am assuming that the engine the dealer installed is stock.
What about the exhaust? Stock headers and stock catalytic converters on there? If so, it should be a fairly basic tune.
Do you need to pass emission inspection?

In any case, you will need to spend money on a handheld tuner. The SCT x4 is $400, than you will need a tune, and those can run quite a bit of money in addition.
Honestly, I would try to pickup a stock air intake, and have Ford flash it to stock. Make sure the wobble is gone. Than start tuning if you want. There isnt a lot to be gained on these with a tune on a stock engine.

I’m omw to the dealership now so if you could help me out as soon as it’s convenient I would really appreciate it!

I’ve been researching in virtually a circular fashion and basically came to the following conclusions…

2015 Mustang GT Performance Pack JLT Cold Air Intake
JMS PedalMax Commander
Tune=Unknown

ABS/Traction Lights - Intermittent (Non-determined pattern)

1. Wheel Speed Sensor - needs replacement or cleaning

2. Wheel hub problems

3. Wire harnessing interruption - occurred during motor replacement

“Wrench” - Dashboard Light (Occurs ONLY when turning cruise control on - EVERYTIME)

1. Solely triggered by cruise control activation

2. Sudden and very noticeable difference in car’s performance when wrench symbol displayed - Car jerks when letting go of throttle

3. On/off engine cycle for 20 second intervals will always reset the “Wrench” symbol back to off

4. This is the most confusing problem against the rest in identifying it’s cause, the derivative component, any relation to any other problems, and ultimately if it’s indicative of a bigger problem.

5. Is this wiring? Electrical? Software? Hardware? Tune related?

P061B CEL Code - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance (Single occurrence during performance driving - Randomly gone next on/off cycle)

1. Impossible to identify the car’s tune/tuning parameters or obtaining the handheld tuner and identifying ALL modded/aftermarket installations (the only one identified is the JLT CAI) and also had the previous motor replaced makes which following option best going forward?

a) Buy then install factory air box and CAI then take car to Ford dealership to flash ECU back to stock

b) Buy the SCTX4 Ford tuner online and use that to flash and load another preloaded tuner onto the vehicle that would at least increase allowable wheel torque and HP, synch with CAI and air flow functions - (Only question here is can this tuner flash a car back to factory settings?)

c) Using the SCTX4 have the company design a customer tune based on the modifications of the car instead of using a preloaded tune (I am sure it’s just a 2015 PP1 Mustang GT with a JLT CAI and Tune)

d) Take the car to a nearby performance tune shop and have them recommend the best option with all the given information

Wobble/Wind Effect - An experience whilst performance driving that feels as if sudden powerful winds affect the motion of the car

1. Wheel tread

2. Wheel alignment

3. ECU and/or Tune related

4. Wheel bearing

5. Interrelated with the ABS problem

***ANY input before I get to the dealership could change the whole unfortunate trajectory of this all. I took a lot of time and effort to compartmentalize and organize the entirety of my understanding regarding the problem. I don’t want the dealership to be the ONLY humans I must rely on and take their words for whatever they see fit. Again, much thanks s197 peeps!

 

[Juice]

Wrench light usually means an issue with the fly by wire throttle, but could be from the tune or pedal commander. Or both. Unknown at this time.

To put it as simple as possible, return the car to stock.
Remove pedal commander, have Ford flash stock tune, with stock air intake.
Drive it for a few weeks minimum and make sure all issues are gone/fixed.

Thats what I would do.
Ps: a "tune NOT required" cold air intake maybe substituted for a factory air intake. And reflash to stock.

 

[20155h]

Lots of great suggestions here. I wouldn’t buy anything until the dealer fixes the problem. Or figures it out. Car is under warranty and you may unintentionally void yourself out of it by making changes. Just a thought.

 

[Nikotopless]

Wrench light usually means an issue with the fly by wire throttle, but could be from the tune or pedal commander. Or both. Unknown at this time.

To put it as simple as possible, return the car to stock.
Remove pedal commander, have Ford flash stock tune, with stock air intake.
Drive it for a few weeks minimum and make sure all issues are gone/fixed.

Thats what I would do.
Ps: a "tune NOT required" cold air intake maybe substituted for a factory air intake. And reflash to stock.

*Dealership Update*

TBH brother, I have been draining way too much money on the car and haven’t even had it a year or the opportunity to really enjoy it. This is the 5th time I’ve brought it in for maintenance and problems. So they ran some type of scanner and identified 3 MORE codes smfh (pic posted below).

I need some insight here guys. So I’ve had the car about 7 months bought it at 10k miles, put about 20k miles on it and so far already had the Throttle Body replaced, intake manifold replaced, an oil pan leak, then the motor replaced and NOW these problems. Prior to replacing the motor I had NO issues other than a cylinder 8 misfire. THE DAY I got the car back, it drove funny leading me to join this forum and start this thread. Brought the car back the very next day to tell/show them it was “wobbling” under heavy throttle and they dismissed it basically. Then next thing I know I get a CEL light (the P016B), the “Service Advance Trac” and the wrench when activating cruise control suddenly.

Side Notes

1. It was never disclosed to me that the car had any tune or aftermarket parts. In fact, the salesman told me it was bone stock (I knew better, however, so after buying the car I drove down the same week and had the service department write in the file that I was sold a car with a tune and aftermarket accessories - so as to not void my extended warranty)

2. Wouldn’t the magnitude of coincidence that the car suddenly has these additional problems (that were nonexistent prior to having my motor replaced) arise THE VERY SAME DAY I PICKED THE CAR UP put the liability on the dealership?

3. Since they sold me a car with a corrupted tune that now needs to be reset to factory settings via tune and parts just to run put the liability on them?

In other words, can anyone help me devise a good argument connecting their culpability to these issues in relation to the timing of these circumstances and the totality of it all?

 

[Juice]

I suspected a wheel speed sensor issue.
Steering sensor cal should have been done when aligned.

At this point all you have to go one is:
Ever since the engine was replaced, the electrical issues started. No way I can tell if it is coincidence or something with the engine work.
Car needs to be put back to stock, make sure it is fixed. Than you can put back the mods one at a time if you want.

 

[Robert Larimer]

Nope, was given nothing but a set of keys and the car. Would replacing the air filter set up to factory help? Can I just buy another tune or something?

Yes you can buy another tune for that airbox and it can be stock except for the adjustments needed. You will need a tuner device unless you know a shop that can do it.

 

[Nikotopless]

I suspected a wheel speed sensor issue.
Steering sensor cal should have been done when aligned.

At this point all you have to go one is:
Ever since the engine was replaced, the electrical issues started. No way I can tell if it is coincidence or something with the engine work.
Car needs to be put back to stock, make sure it is fixed. Than you can put back the mods one at a time if you want.

Aren’t they liable for selling me a car with that problem? How can i make them pay for this?

 

[Juice]

Aren’t they liable for selling me a car with that problem? How can i make them pay for this?

Sorry, I cannot answer that. Not a lawyer. But you could consult one.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Not unless the car has a warranty, not just the engine that was replaced.

 

[Nikotopless]

Not unless the car has a warranty, not just the engine that was replaced.

I bought the car with the extended warranty (100k miles - Engine, Powertrain, Transmission)

 

[Nikotopless]

Yes you can buy another tune for that airbox and it can be stock except for the adjustments needed. You will need a tuner device unless you know a shop that can do it.

Do you think a tune will be the best way forward? It sure seems cheaper than restoring it back to stock then flashing it to factory settings. Also, do you think a tune is causing all these other malfunctions?

 

[Juice]

Tune is not causing the wheel speed sensor issue, or.the steering angle sesor calibration.

 

[Robert Larimer]

Do you think a tune will be the best way forward? It sure seems cheaper than restoring it back to stock then flashing it to factory settings. Also, do you think a tune is causing all these other malfunctions?

The errors you are showing are not from a tune. For all you know the only change from the tune may be to support the air intake. You know you have a tune because the one you have requires it. That just means it has an intake that changes the specs of the mass airflow sensor mounted in the intake and the computer needs to know that. You might be able to find a factory airbox at a junkyard and then have them reflash to stock. That might be the cheapest way to go. I do not think any of this will fix your current problems though. They are not tune related. It does seem strange that you got a "new" engine because of a defect and they kept the intake and the tune of the engine that failed. That would worry me.