Chasing a 5.0

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I've seen a couple threads around the web asking how to keep up with a stock coyote 5.0 with a 3v motor and most people usually recommend FI or spray. My question is can it be done N/A without building the motor or using a ridiculous cam grind and ported heads? I'm looking at cam and gears in addition to my bolt-ons, specifically Comp Motha Thumpr and 3.90's. I've got a couple buds with stock coyote's with the MT-82 trans and they always get ahead by about two car lengths. Anybody got any experience or advice pertaining to trying to get ahead of a stock coyote with a 3v all motor?
 

stkjock

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gonna be hard pressed to make a 3v as potent as a Coyote. 40% more power stock for stock is a lot to make up.

IMO, would not be cost effective to do so in N/A form
 

rcm90

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My buddies stock 13' gt/cs goes 12.60's@112 on average. It's been a [email protected], and most bolt-on/cam 3v's trap 109-111, so I'd start cutting weight and make the car stick.

What does your car weigh?
 
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My buddies stock 13' gt/cs goes 12.60's@112 on average. It's been a [email protected], and most bolt-on/cam 3v's trap 109-111, so I'd start cutting weight and make the car stick.

What does your car weigh?

According to wiki: 3,480 lb

Might be 30 or 40 pounds lighter than that with my cat delete, slp's and stock CDMP motor delete. So maybe 3,450? If you were to start cutting weight where would you start?
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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I heard a focus st beat a modded 3v last night. Id worry about them before you worry about a coyote.
 

rcm90

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According to wiki: 3,480 lb

Might be 30 or 40 pounds lighter than that with my cat delete, slp's and stock CDMP motor delete. So maybe 3,450? If you were to start cutting weight where would you start?

It's hard to suggest where to cut weight not knowing what you are and are not willing to sacrifice.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13162

Run through this. If you could get to 3250 and drive the balls off of the car it will be close. I'd use 4.10's or 4.30's as well.
 
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I heard a focus st beat a modded 3v last night. Id worry about them before you worry about a coyote.

Hearing it and seeing it can often provide different results. Either way I won't worry too much as we don't have any around here.

It's hard to suggest where to cut weight not knowing what you are and are not willing to sacrifice.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13162

Run through this. If you could get to 3250 and drive the balls off of the car it will be close. I'd use 4.10's or 4.30's as well.

Hmm, good info. Thanks for the link. A little off-topic but what is that formula for shaving weight and horsepower? IIRC it's 1 hp per 10 pounds?
 
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fdjizm

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We'll unless they run 12.teens stock.
I've beat a few at the strip.
Maybe not "from a roll" but don't know because I'm not 18 in my first mustang so not really concerned about that.
 

zeroescape

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Road and track did a very mathy article back in 2008 about et vs power/weight. I'm sure you could google and find many accurate equations.

I believe it's roughly a %2.0 decrease in weight for every 0.1 sec ET drop.
 

rcm90

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We'll unless they run 12.teens stock.
I've beat a few at the strip.
Maybe not "from a roll" but don't know because I'm not 18 in my first mustang so not really concerned about that.

Your car runs awesome and I'm not trying to take anything away from you, but it's hard to compare a car on bias-ply's to a regular radial car. On the street 9 of 10 times the 3v is going to lose because most of the time people don't roll around on a bias ply or drag radial.
 

BruceH

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IMO the only way to do it na is with a big bore block which would be included as part of a motor build. The stock 3v motor is going to max out at 330-350rwhp depending on what you do. I don't think that's enough to beat a car with 360-370rwhp stock.

A high compression big bore with stock stroke should be at or over 400rwhp with e85 and very driveable cams. It's not the answer you are looking for though.

Go 4.10 or 4.56 for gears. IMO 127500 would be the best cams for your application and they will give you room to grow. Lunati has some interesting grinds too.

I've seen a couple threads around the web asking how to keep up with a stock coyote 5.0 with a 3v motor and most people usually recommend FI or spray. My question is can it be done N/A without building the motor or using a ridiculous cam grind and ported heads? I'm looking at cam and gears in addition to my bolt-ons, specifically Comp Motha Thumpr and 3.90's. I've got a couple buds with stock coyote's with the MT-82 trans and they always get ahead by about two car lengths. Anybody got any experience or advice pertaining to trying to get ahead of a stock coyote with a 3v all motor?
 

fdjizm

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Your car runs awesome and I'm not trying to take anything away from you, but it's hard to compare a car on bias-ply's to a regular radial car. On the street 9 of 10 times the 3v is going to lose because most of the time people don't roll around on a bias ply or drag radial.

Agreed
 

skwerl

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My Bullitt could destroy Coyotes at will but it was pushing 14 lbs of boost on a built motor with ported heads and big cams. That said, the new Mustangs are twice the car of the older Mustangs. If you have any doubt or hesitation whatsoever between building your current car or upgrading to a new one, I highly encourage you to go test drive a new one. I would have preferred keeping my old car simply because it was a Bullitt but for an average GT I'd upgrade in a minute.
 

MassMustang

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I would agree with most of the comments above. It's tough having a 4.6 compared to a 5.0. In stock form we're already at a disadvantage. I think it boils down to mods (you hope you have better mods than the other guy/gal) and driving skills (especially with a manual transmission).
 

Blxcklist

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Man the coyotes are scary. Ive raced one and he was bone stock from a dig to 80 I had him by about 1 to maybe 1.5 car lengths and Ive got quite a few bolt ons.
 

Johnf78

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Just wait a little while and their mt-82 will probably grenade. You'll be able to just cruise on by. :laughlots:
 

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