Ford racing intake manifold

[zxmarekxz]

and i will be sure to post dyno results of my car as soon as i get them. and my car already has delete plates so i feel like it will be a good test.

list all your mods pls. But yeah, the more numbers the better...

 

[3vs197]

full bolt ons, no cats, stage 2 nsr's. made 330/314 as it sits.

 

[HOLYWD]

I love my FRPP manifold

 

[JeremyH]

and check out my edit lightblade, i corrected your highlighted number to the correct 366.

thank your for that astute observation. but the "magazine article" was not on a chassis dyno, it was an engine dyno. had you read that you might not look like such an idiot right now.

also im not arguing about how much more power the intake does or does not make.

i know what i know from experience, you know what your tuner tells you.

greg, im not arguing about what sort of dyno numbers more people want to see. i never did. i was simply reposting in a different way what the article said.

u two smart guys wanna make anymore intelligent remarks?

ps. GREG, look at what lightblade copied from my original undedited post, where it says CRANK...twice

You dont need to continue to prove to us that you are an idiot.
I know the test was on an engine dyno. Let me expalin this to you as simple as I can...

If a stock 3v engine with frpp manifold makes 343bhp (brake horse power) (this is measured directly from the engine on an engine dyno, so no trans or rearend losses). On a chasis dyno in a car going though the trans, ds, rear and to the wheels you have losses (around 15% manual and 20% auto) for the sake of this example i will use the smaller number 15% loss which is about as good as your gonna get on a 3v. That means that 343bhp stock 3v engine with frpp manifold would make 292rwhp on a chasis dyno. Theres just no way in hell this is gonna happen. Unless like I stated it is the strongest stock 3v ever made, generous dynos, and the enigne was tuned on 93 or higher.

So again, there is no way in hell a stock 3v with just a frpp manifold made 343bhp. That would mean i could take a stock 3v that makes 265rwhp on a chasis dyno, slap on a frppp manifold and pick up 27rwhp (292-265) lol
Bullshit!

Do you understand now...

i know what i know from experience, you know what your tuner tells you.

Well that makes a little bit of sense, since you dont know much of anything, that goes in hand with the fact you have next to no experience with the frpp manifold as well.

Juding by the multiple threads you have made asking to see dyno results on the manifold, now you are trying to stand by a magazine article's results... In case you didnt know magazines are for advertising and to sell products plain and simple. Thats why reuslts are always "higher"...

My tuner didnt tell me anything. He had never worked with one of the frpp manifolds before so I asked him if he wanted to do some before and after testing. He was all about it so he did some baselines and then let me install my frpp manifold on his dyno and then re-dyno'd afterwards. I have installed it and watched the results on dyno with my own eyes on my car, seen Greg's results and seen dyno graphs at Mike's shop as he has since dyno'd half a dozen different setups with the frpp manifold, as a matter of fact he just tuned a cams/longtubes car with the manifold 2 days ago. And another friend luke is going to MAP to have his manifold tested with bbr stage 1 cams and longtubes and were gonna go up there to check it out as well.

So dont even try to talk to me about experience as your about as green as they come.

Install the manifold that you just bought, get it tuned and see your results, some first-hand experience. Otherwise shut your mouth.

 

[3vs197]

i tune my own cars thank you very much, something you can't do because you don't know how, so if you think you know more than me about anything auto related, your smoking some shit.

and you dont get it with the hp numbers with the article, im simply re stating what they said, no need to argue with me as to their validity.

and i made some threads about the manifold because i wanna know if its worth it before i buy it. you told me to just buy it and test it myself, which im doing right now

and im well aware magazine articles may not be the most truthful bit of information. just like i don't believe BBR's test of the manifold where they gained 36whp with a bolt on car.

i simple got more back from my taxes than i thought and i plan on staying NA so i bought it and will see for myself if its worth it or not. if its not, oh well, live and learn right?

 

[JeremyH]

I don't smoke a damn thing, I will definetly smoke your car though .

Your right I dont tune cars, I work on them. Since you do it, its obviously not that hard to learn lol, its just something I have no interest in doing. And its not like you tune 3v's for a living, you may have tuned yours but really thats not alot of experience either with all the different setups out there. I will probe the knowledge base off a reputable/sucessful tuner long before you, thats just how it works.

Now back on topic, i simply do have more experience with the frpp manifold then you, so like you agreed, get it on there and tune it, and lets see how it does and we can discuss it.

I agree, the bbr numbers do look fishy/scewed as well, just like that article, thats why i wont reference it or try to share that info with anyone, instead i will share my results and what i have seen from my experience.

I think you will be happy with the manifold on your setup and you will see some nice gains starting at 3500 rpms and up. Based on my experience and off of what your car makes now, I think you will see around 340-350rwhp (if you have longtubes) with the frpp manifold/tb combo or a similar port matched tb and a good 93 octane dyno tune. With a vsr, higher lift cam you will make a little more.

 

[LAllison20]

I think you will see around 340-350rwhp.

Thats what im hoping to see

 

[JeremyH]

You def will Luke, check out what Mike just did for nighttrain the other day.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52911&highlight=mid+atlantic

He has similiar mods, just with detroit rocker cams, i bet you will make a little more with the brr stage 1's

 

[GERMANSHEPERD]

Uhhh...ok....last time I checked 51 is a lot less than 130.

Thats correct.

 

[spectreman]

My Bullitt, at least for me, is pretty good stock but I want to tinker just a tad, maybe add some HP here/there. I'm thinking my 1st mods will be the tune, a larger CAI, the delete plates & the under-drive pulleys. I really don't see myself going much more radical (at this point.) Yeah, new cams & headers are interesting but expensive & $$ is tight & honestly, do I need it? Answer- no.

Again, this is my daily driver, gotta be streetable & I'm no kid anymore. I'm thinking I may leave the engine alone after that, then maybe try to some Steeda sport springs, rear lower control arms. I'd love to upgrade the brakes too but then we're talking big $$ again.

And the rest of you fellas, if I can offer some advice, need to take a step back & grab your respective breaths. We ain't talking world peace here or finding a cure for cancer. We're talking about adding power to our common love, our Stangs. That's it.
Lee

 

[JeremyH]

Thats how we do things around here. lol

 

[tjm73]

Here are some calculations for you guys. These are the numbers i look for with my car and they may or may not help you. The lowest rpm my car sees in a race is usually 4800-5000 (2-3 shift) so i look at numbers from 5k-6.8k (still on stock springs). Here are the average hp results from that MM&FF test, starting at 5k and taken every 300 rpms till 6.8k. (all numbers are obviously crank)

Stock 3v- 343hp
Stock w/intake- 347hp
Intake/Cams- 373hp
H/I (stock cams)- 367hp
H/C (stock intake)- 366hp
H/C/I- 378hp

again, this is the average crankshaft hp from 5k-6.8k.

I wanted numbers too but after months of not much i decided to purchase the intake myself. My car laid down 330/314 with stage 2 nsr's, pypes LT's, or/h, mac mufflers, delete plates, udp's, tune, 4.10's, C&L racer.

Only thing i have changed is i switched to an or/x and borla mufflers. I have the intake and when snow clears, i will dyno it on the same dyno. Should be around april.

Don't trust the numbers from that article. None of the hp numbers convert to the associated torque numbers, nor vice versa in test #8. Number 7 was all good and I think4 was messed up too.

All the numbers in that test are tainted IMO.

HP = (TQ x RPM) / 5252
TQ = (HP x 5252) /RPM

If you take the published torque and horsepower number for the given rpm of your choice from that article, you will find they don't come out the same for many of the tests. Test #8 is totally not accurate.

 

[3vs197]

i tested it in a few spots on the chart and they all work (that i tested anyways) except test 8. the numbers aren't off big, but not quite right.

and for the 17th time im not agreeing or disagreeing with the numbers posted, simply posting them in a different way.

 

[tjm73]

i tested it in a few spots on the chart and they all work (that i tested anyways) except test 8. the numbers aren't off big, but not quite right.

and for the 17th time im not agreeing or disagreeing with the numbers posted, simply posting them in a different way.

That's fine. I was just saying the numbers are messed up.

It's also the second time an article in MM&FF with data from Livernois is wrong. Not saying either of them doctored the numbers but something is not right.

Have you seen this article? Spot checks show good numbers and these are wheel numbers.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/te...hree_valve_head_cam_intake_package/index.html

 

[3vs197]

i wish they would have done the original test first mentioned in this thread on a chassis dyno. would have made for much better info.

 

[spectreman]

Again, after reading that linked article, I'm more inclined to go the way of the deleteplates rather than the new racing intake. There seems to be no upside, at least for my limited engine plan upgrades.

Loads of info here fellas, good discussion- thx for everyone's input.
Lee

 

[iceguyb14]

Wow what an interesting thread haha.

I wanted numbers too but after months of not much i decided to purchase the intake myself. My car laid down 330/314 with stage 2 nsr's, pypes LT's, or/h, mac mufflers, delete plates, udp's, tune, 4.10's, C&L racer.

Only thing i have changed is i switched to an or/x and borla mufflers. I have the intake and when snow clears, i will dyno it on the same dyno. Should be around april.

Your car has stage 2 NSRs, longtubes, o/r h, and delete plates which my car doesn't and make only 22 more whp and 6 less wtq... Well I know some mods I won't be doing lol. After you do the frpp manifold be sure to post your dyno results so I can see if I might wanna get that or the c&l in the future.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

My Bullitt, at least for me, is pretty good stock but I want to tinker just a tad, maybe add some HP here/there. I'm thinking my 1st mods will be the tune, a larger CAI, the delete plates & the under-drive pulleys. I really don't see myself going much more radical (at this point.) Yeah, new cams & headers are interesting but expensive & $$ is tight & honestly, do I need it? Answer- no.

Again, this is my daily driver, gotta be streetable & I'm no kid anymore. I'm thinking I may leave the engine alone after that, then maybe try to some Steeda sport springs, rear lower control arms. I'd love to upgrade the brakes too but then we're talking big $$ again.

And the rest of you fellas, if I can offer some advice, need to take a step back & grab your respective breaths. We ain't talking world peace here or finding a cure for cancer. We're talking about adding power to our common love, our Stangs. That's it.
Lee

Thanks Dr Phil.

 

[Kidd]

OP......... I have a Roush CAI, Bassani x-pipe with high flow cats, FRPP Stinger Axle backs and a BBR 93 octane tune and my car made 300rwhp and 323rwtq with a little tweaking on the dyno.

 

[BoostedGT]

FRPP intake with factory exhaust is like puking out 12hrs of binge drinking through a straw.