JDM 302E Engine Owners - Check In!!

[skwerl]

Please tell us why you haven't done the compression/leakdown test yet? You've only had this issue for a year and now you've pulled the engine out of the car but you still haven't done a compression test? WTF?

 

[Fabman]

Well, my last engine had out of round cylinders on the driver's side of the engine and oil was showing on the top of the valves but it was from oil being pushed up by the pistons and from (can't remember the damn term) how the air flow works with cams and whatnot. The word begins with an "R" but I just can't remember the term.

My valves and exhaust ports did not have nearly that much carbon on them so I'm going to have to guess that it's both from oil and being rich. Now I also ran E85 all last year so that may have kept my stuff clean.

"reversion"

 

[weather man]

Well, my last engine had out of round cylinders on the driver's side of the engine and oil was showing on the top of the valves but it was from oil being pushed up by the pistons and from (can't remember the damn term) how the air flow works with cams and whatnot. The word begins with an "R" but I just can't remember the term.

My valves and exhaust ports did not have nearly that much carbon on them so I'm going to have to guess that it's both from oil and being rich. Now I also ran E85 all last year so that may have kept my stuff clean.

Reversion

EDIT: Damnit!

 

[dysan]

So you are saying that oil was getting past the rings and pistons, climbing up the heads and resting on the backside of the valves in the intake port?

So what you are saying is that I need to get the block inspected for roundness...?
I would have thought JDM performed this already since they claim "New FRPP Block plate honed for a truer bore geometry".

Also, wouldn't that show up in a compression/leak down test?
Ooh, that reminds me, I need to perform a compression and leakdown test for giggles.

My cylinders were fine when I installed the engine last winter/spring and after 1 year of racing the block turned out to be defective and was flexing which caused the cylinders on the driver's side to go out of round. Now if you washed down the cylinders from too much fuel and the rings were seized up that can also allow oil to come up past them and then (thanks to the others who posted) reversion would suck that oil up into the intake ports.

Once you disassemble the engine you should check the cylinders for roundness as well as inspect the rings on the pistons to see if they have messed up from cylinder washing.

Until it's torn down there is no definitive answers, just speculation and possibilities.

http://www.boatheaders.com/reversion.htm

 

[JimIII@JDM]

So what you are saying is that I need to get the block inspected for roundness...?
I would have thought JDM performed this already since they claim "New FRPP Block plate honed for a truer bore geometry".

We did perform a plate hone on the walls to ensure they were perfectly true before assembly. You have 10,000 miles on the engine now with noted oil consumption issues and possible over fueling. This could glaze the cylinder walls and can change the shape of the sleeve after numerous heat cycles. Especially with the excessive amount of oil, oil hardening changes the structure of the wall material.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Please tell us why you haven't done the compression/leakdown test yet? You've only had this issue for a year and now you've pulled the engine out of the car but you still haven't done a compression test? WTF?

Skwerl, I did have a compression test and leak-down test done by a local Mustang speed shop.

I then repeated the test at home; except for the leak-down.

The results are in this thread. lol

We did perform a plate hone on the walls to ensure they were perfectly true before assembly. You have 10,000 miles on the engine now with noted oil consumption issues and possible over fueling. This could glaze the cylinder walls and can change the shape of the sleeve after numerous heat cycles. Especially with the excessive amount of oil, oil hardening changes the structure of the wall material.

If this is the case, then would this be obviously evident upon removing the heads?

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Skwerl, I did have a compression test and leak-down test done by a local Mustang speed shop.

I then repeated the test at home; except for the leak-down.

The results are in this thread. lol




If this is the case, then would this be obviously evident upon removing the heads?

The block should be inspected at a machine shop. You could probably see if the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is worn away. That would be a sign, but I would have the block brought to a machine shop that can check it. That is what we would do here.

 

[AutoXRacer]

The block should be inspected at a machine shop. You could probably see if the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is worn away. That would be a sign, but I would have the block brought to a machine shop that can check it. That is what we would do here.

Jim, got a question for you. I am pondering getting rid of the stock balancer and caged pulley for the Innovator's West 03-04 Cobra Metco hubbed balancer:

http://www.innovatorswest.com/811-963-MOD-Damper.html

Innovator's West suggested I get the crank double keyed due to the extra load of the blower. What do you think?
I have never heard of blown 4.6Ls having crank issues with single keys.

Also, what is your take-side load-on a cage-less blower pulley (IW; above link). I like the caged blower pulley to reduce or eliminate the side load on the crank. But the design is horrible for maintenance.

 

[Fabman]

Got my e85 tune done today.
(JDM built 302E Long block)
http://youtu.be/hWxB6La7a2Q

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Jim, got a question for you. I am pondering getting rid of the stock balancer and caged pulley for the Innovator's West 03-04 Cobra Metco hubbed balancer:

http://www.innovatorswest.com/811-963-MOD-Damper.html

Innovator's West suggested I get the crank double keyed due to the extra load of the blower. What do you think?
I have never heard of blown 4.6Ls having crank issues with single keys.

Also, what is your take-side load-on a cage-less blower pulley (IW; above link). I like the caged blower pulley to reduce or eliminate the side load on the crank. But the design is horrible for maintenance.

I would suggest doing the same, its not a bad idea. I wouldn't say its 100% necessary but if your going to have it apart and can get the crank keywayed I would.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I would suggest doing the same, its not a bad idea. I wouldn't say its 100% necessary but if your going to have it apart and can get the crank keywayed I would.

What is the advantage? And could this be reliably performed by a reputable machine shop? Is this pretty standard/common?

Then my main worry, is there any concern getting rid of the supported/caged pulley? The caged pulley eliminates the added stress load to the crank for driving the blower.

Are there any concerns with the added side loads/stresses to the crank using an unsupported pulley? Will I be prematurely wearing the front crank bearings?

 

[JimIII@JDM]

What is the advantage? And could this be reliably performed by a reputable machine shop? Is this pretty standard/common?

Then my main worry, is there any concern getting rid of the supported/caged pulley? The caged pulley eliminates the added stress load to the crank for driving the blower.

Are there any concerns with the added side loads/stresses to the crank using an unsupported pulley? Will I be prematurely wearing the front crank bearings?

There is no concern running it like this, the Lightning Truck and 03-04 Cobra community have been running a non supported type pulley system for years with out issues. Some of these guys are spinning bigger blowers at much higher rates of RPM. I have seen some sheer the crank from the stock key way giving out. So a double keyway will limit the amount of stress and any risk of damaging the crank.

JimIII

 

[stkjock]

if you're sending the crank to a machine shop anyway, get it double key-way ready, 100%!

 

[msczesny1186]

Got my e85 tune done today.
(JDM built 302E Long block)
http://youtu.be/hWxB6La7a2Q

Nice Vid man.

 

[Fabman]

Nice Vid man.

Thanks....I can't really take credit though, the Dyno shop made the vid....I just wrote the check. LOL. Oh wait...that's not funny.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Ooh, I think I have found my machine shop/engine builder!!!!
http://www.cdengines.com/

 

[dysan]

Just make sure they have the proper torque plates for our engines.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Just make sure they have the proper torque plates for our engines.

Will do!!! I'm going to check this place out ASAP.

I have gotten 5 local recommendations so far. They supposedly build all out dragster motors and everything in between.

The local reputable Mustang builder recommended them too; thats where they take their motors to be worked on.

 

[ILW84U]

Innovator's West suggested I get the crank double keyed due to the extra load of the blower. What do you think?
I have never heard of blown 4.6Ls having crank issues with single keys.

I had my crank bolt back off & the pulley started to work it's way off. Actually started twisting the keyway on the crank. I only found it after pulling the motor when it blew (not related). When I did my next motor I had the crank double keyed & used the longer ARP crank bolt so it wouldn't happen again.

 

[01yellerCobra]

What is the advantage? And could this be reliably performed by a reputable machine shop? Is this pretty standard/common?

Then my main worry, is there any concern getting rid of the supported/caged pulley? The caged pulley eliminates the added stress load to the crank for driving the blower.

Are there any concerns with the added side loads/stresses to the crank using an unsupported pulley? Will I be prematurely wearing the front crank bearings?

Just don't get crazy with a tight belt. I know a lot of guys put a belt on that's so tight the tensioner is against the stop. That pulls the crank into the main bearing. I wiped out a front bearing doing that.

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