keene bell blower blues

gemstang

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Had a dyno run today this was the best run of the day, sucks!!!!!!!!! I bought a KB stage 2 kit with SCT tuner on a stock 3v engine. 1st run was 268 RWHP and this the last pull. I don't know why it is only making 6psi of boost (kit was supposed to be 10psi) and the A/F ratio is very rich on the bottom and top end. I think that there is a blow of valve issue due to a spring missing inside the valve. Any ideas
 

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2010Elanore

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well first of all, a stock 3V makes at least that 268 if not more....secondly, if you are in-fact running 6 lbs of boost...assuming your motor is solid, you should be seeing a lot more than 268. There could be a problem with the BOV...I am not a kenny belle owner either...something is definitely wrong though, not getting air in the motor is what it seems like.
 

Marc s

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The low boost doesn't concern me as much as the lack of power. The A/F ratio is a mess. How much timing do you have?
 

1lowtoy

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Do you have a shop that is helping you with this problem? Did you datalog everything while you had the car on the dyno? Which tune are you trying to run, the Kenne Bell or a custom tune?
 

05mustang_TT_charged

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Can you give a little more detail about your set up?

The boost loss could be due to the by-pass valve hitting the hose clamp on the rubber tube on back drivers side of blower.

Sounds like a tune problem to me.
 

BoostedGT480

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Loose Vacuum hose? Something is up for sure. Like others have said, you should be well over 400 at the wheels and your tuner needs to get your A/F under control...I wouldnt be running it hard until its fixed...
 

maxdmax

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We just did a Kenne Bell stage II install and tune on my Son's 2005 Mustang GT a couple of weeks ago, we ended up staying conservative with 440 RWHP. We could have gone much higher if we had added more timing. Things I would check from some of the issues we had and a few things I read about.

Check the clamp on the hose kind of behind and under the by-pass valve, we noticed this during the install, if you are not careful it will keep the valve from closing.

Make sure your clutch is not slipping, we have a stock clutch in the car and had this happen on the first pull, it only got to like 329 RWHP. For some reason this cleard up on the next runs and was OK. It seems fine since, go figure...

How many miles on the plugs and what are they gapped at? We had to change ours out and gapped them at .32 and it made a huge difference. I just hope they all come out for you, ours did not we had to extract 7 of them with the extract tool.

If you are making 6 lbs. of boost then there has to be something in the tune or the internals.

Good luck let us know what you find.
 
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TexasBlownV8

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You can check the BPV operation relatively easy. With engine idling, the BPV should be open; unhook the vacuum line to it and it should fully close right away. If it's staying open, you definitely have a problem.

What size pulley are you using as well?

The tune sounds all messed up, or you're getting/leaking air around the bottom of the blower. Or the intake manifold is leaking (were the gaskets used during installation?). Something's terribly wrong. <400 hp is not right; even with my conservative beginning tune with timing pulled to only 8*, I was seeing over 400 rwhp.
 

firestang70

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Also check your plugs and your COPs. I had one or two get damaged or went bad (my COPs) when I installed my Whipple. It wasn't making any power. Changed the plugs and no change. Traced it down to the COPs (coil on plugs). If you need any (COPs)pm me, I have several I can sell you cheap and also have the first set of Brisks one piece they are 1 step colder than stock, they have 100 miles and a couple dyno pulls on them. fyi Good luck.
 
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king_ahmet

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IF a shop is doing your install and/or they're supervising you do it... I would questioning their knowledge. There is no way you should be below 400 on 6lbs... I can't really say anything that hasn't been said already. Keep us posted tho. I'm betting it's a vac line.
 

gemstang

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blower blues

I've doubled/tripled checked all the vacuum lines, COP's are new as well as the plugs. No air leaks around the blower or manifold. The pulley is 3.75 " that came attached to the blower.along with the 39lbs injectors

When watching the by-pass valve turning the dyno runs I noticed that the black lever/rod never moved, I could moved it by hand however at WOT or partial throttle it still didn't move. At 3000 rpm it was making 1.6psi of boost. We stopped the run and removed the red plastic fitting on the back of the bypass valve and there wasn't a spring inside. I believe that there needs to be one to operate the valve when the engine is making vacuum. The dyno tech installed a temp spring which caused the the black arm/lever/rod to move when making boost which brought up the horsepower however it still is not making 10psi.

The fuel ratio was off and they were unable to change/modify the SCT tune that was installed.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Sounds like the valve mechanism is not working right. Without it closing when there is no vacuum, you wont get much boost at all.
 

Simon

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I've doubled/tripled checked all the vacuum lines, COP's are new as well as the plugs. No air leaks around the blower or manifold. The pulley is 3.75 " that came attached to the blower.along with the 39lbs injectors

When watching the by-pass valve turning the dyno runs I noticed that the black lever/rod never moved, I could moved it by hand however at WOT or partial throttle it still didn't move. At 3000 rpm it was making 1.6psi of boost. We stopped the run and removed the red plastic fitting on the back of the bypass valve and there wasn't a spring inside. I believe that there needs to be one to operate the valve when the engine is making vacuum. The dyno tech installed a temp spring which caused the the black arm/lever/rod to move when making boost which brought up the horsepower however it still is not making 10psi.

The fuel ratio was off and they were unable to change/modify the SCT tune that was installed.


Make sure the valet screw is not keeping the arm from moving.

Sometimes the hose clamp and/or the nut on the clamp interferes with the movement of the bypass arm. I went through that with mine. If you physically try and move the arm and it doesn't, there something blocking it's movement.
 

gemstang

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blower blues

I'm going to take off the blower and take off the bypass valve. checking for interference with the butterfly valve, link rod and check the whole vacuum line set up. I think this is the area to focus on, well also change to a diablo tune so I can have the A/F ratio changed
 

TexasBlownV8

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I think Simon has some good ideas. Check the valet screw; it's there to prevent movement and keep the valve open.
 

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