Learning to make fast go fast!

[05stroker]

LMFAO!!!

 

[Sinner]

Ill take a look at it this weekend while I have the motor back out.

Looks like I found my issue. My copper head gaskets and SS o-rings are leaking. Compression test was good a when I first checked but when the car is under boost it is pressurizing the coolant system. That led me to pull the plugs and look into the cylinder and I can see pitting in the cylinder walls on several cylinders. Piston tops look good and the plugs look new. I guess I will find out what the issue is as I tear into it one more time. There is oil in the cylinders so I assume the rings are toast now. I may just get a new block and go back to stock head gaskets at this point. I cannot trust this copper head gasket setup at this point if what I think is the issue. I just hope the brand new set of pistons is okay.

If anyone has a lead on a block I am in the market.

I've got a few blocks both iron and aluminum.

 

[crownaviation]

I've got a few blocks both iron and aluminum.

...so that's where they all went

 

[PNR Welding]

Also thinking about loosing the power brakes and going manual, the Strange drag brakes are VERY sensitive with the stock master cylinder and the power brake booster. Here is what I am thinking.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-manual-strange-brake-kit-05.html

Go with a 1.032 bore. That 1.125 will not work right.

Racecraft changed theirs and works well, but more money than UPR. If only UPR would use the 1.032 bore they would sell more. I might need to contact them cause I am in the market also.

I'm telling you what I heard from multiple people with experience.

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_334_338&products_id=409

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

I read this thread.................................my wallet screams in agony for you.



I commend..............................YOUR WIFE!!!!!!!!!!

Hook me up with her sister if she's as good looking and understanding!!!!!!

 

[dysan]

Paul, he doesn't have the stock brakes any more...the other master cylinder may or may not work for him...we can't say for sure but he should discuss that with Strange since I believe it is those race brakes he is running.

But with the stock calipers you would definitely want/need the smaller 1.032 bore.

 

[psfracer]

I run Strange brakes front/rear with that master cylinder that is linked above from Racecraft. I also have a proportioning valve installed.

 

[05stroker]

I've got a few blocks both iron and aluminum.

I have a couple to look at now. Thanks, PM coming your way.

Go with a 1.032 bore. That 1.125 will not work right.

Racecraft changed theirs and works well, but more money than UPR. If only UPR would use the 1.032 bore they would sell more. I might need to contact them cause I am in the market also.

I'm telling you what I heard from multiple people with experience.

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_334_338&products_id=409

I will call strange then and get there recommendation.

Hook me up with her sister if she's as good looking and understanding!!!!!!

She is taken.

I run Strange brakes front/rear with that master cylinder that is linked above from Racecraft. I also have a proportioning valve installed.

Did you have to use the valve on the rear or fronts with the skinny's?

 

[travelers]

Don't forget he is running 4 calipers on the rear and he may need the larger master cylinder.

Love the other comment.

 

[05stroker]

Anyone have a good way to get an intake off that rtv was used on?

 

[05stroker]

I also did a compression test before starting to remove parts.

1-115
2-170
3-170
4-160
5-170
6-170
7-170
8-170

Then I retested #1 and it didn't move on the second and third rotation of the motor and then on the forth stated to come up and went to 115 again.

I can see silver specs on the piston tops now that they are dry and think there was damage done when the stopped up ID2000s where in there.

Im going to finish removing it tomorrow and tear it down while paying close attention to the head gaskets. I just hope the pistons are all okay!

 

[skwerl]

Anyone have a good way to get an intake off that rtv was used on?

Flexible (thin blade) 1.5" putty knife is my weapon of choice.

 

[05stroker]

Flexible (thin blade) 1.5" putty knife is my weapon of choice.

I may have to pull the motor with it on and get at it from the rear. I tried to pry it up with a 3ft 3/4" steel pipe from the front and it would not pop loose! The car would bounce up and down though.

 

[skwerl]

I have used a hammer and tapped the putty knife in the gap like a chisel to cut the RTV bond, then pried it out and repeat in as many spots as possible until you can pry it off. I went through a similar process removing my blower the last time. I reused the gasket so many times I had to glue it in place with RTV.

 

[one eyed willy]

get at it from the rear.

I prefer this method

 

[skwerl]

Paul, you still talking about gaskets?

 

[05stroker]

I prefer this method

I am talking about the car...

I have all my wiring and cooling lines under the intake and it would be much easier to remove the motor if the intake is off. I can do it without removing the intake, but it will take much longer.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I have used a hammer and tapped the putty knife in the gap like a chisel to cut the RTV bond, then pried it out and repeat in as many spots as possible until you can pry it off. I went through a similar process removing my blower the last time. I reused the gasket so many times I had to glue it in place with RTV.

This, you have to break the seal on the RTV, or it will never come off.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Use a big-ass pry bar like this:

ok, not the same, but as mentioned, that rtv is a bitch to break loose. breaking it with some kind of wedge or blade is a reasonable start.

 

[travelers]

If you can get a thin scraper or razor blade to start it you can start wiping it with some lacquer thinner on a rag. That's what I use to loosen up the rtv on the trans on the race car. It also makes it easy to clean it off.